final drive question

so, i rode my seca to work yesterday. when i went to leave, i noticed that my final drive belched some oil out the breather.

i rode it home (6 miles) and i didn't notice any performance issues (dragging, etc).

after riding 6 miles, the final drive felt kinda warm - but not too warm - about as warm as a cup of coffee that you're half way done with.

anyhow, i checked the level and it appeared to be overfilled. i used a syringe and sucked out oil until it was full to the proper level.

for what it's worth, the oil seemed to have a greenish tint to it.

question 1: is there a seal at the front of the drive shaft that could let oil leak out of the engine and into the final drive? (according to my sight glass, i haven't lost any oil . . .)


question 2: could condensation accumulate in the final drive, increasing the overall fluid volume with water? (the last 2 days i rode to work in the morning and it was in the mid 20's)

question 3: last summer i planned on changing the final drive oil, but when i went to the auto parts store, they didn't have the hypoid sae 80 gear oil, so i didn't change it. is there a more modern gear oil that will suffice? i'm guessing that sae 80 hypoid gear oil is too old a spec to buy these days.

thanks in advance for any and all input.

 

Question 1: Yes...but no. There is a seal on the engine side of the shaft (near the rubber boot) but no, oil wouldn't leak back into the final drive housing. There is a bunch of empty space in the swingarm. You're lucky you haven't had to pull the engine :roll:

Question 2: Dunno

Question 3: I believe the Haynes manual said that 80W90 oil would suffice. That's what I put in.

If it's overfilled when you check the level, then the oil should pour out. Make sure to check it on the center stand.

It'll get a little warm, there's plenty of friction going on there. Don't forget that there is also a drum brake on the other side. If it's so hot you can't touch it, check your rear brake adjustment. I did mine wrong, and heated the WHOLE wheel, brake housing, and final drive to near exhaust temps.

 

That sounds about right.

Which is filled to the bottom of the threads of the filler bolt....

Common with gear oil. Might even have been a lovely bluish-green.

No. Well, actually, there are seals (many of them) in-between the engine and the final drive, but it's not really probably that oil would have migrated that far.

Possibly, but doubtful. There is a breather at the top of the final drive case, but it's supposed to be a 1-way affair. Water (moisture) in the oil will leave a white-ish, milky looking substance in the oil.

All shaft-drive XJ models should have their rear fluid changed every two years (or 15,000 miles) and use SAE 80W or SAE 80W/90 Type GL-4 Hypoid Gear Oil. The final drive holds 0.2 liters of fluid (about 1/2 of a pint).

We carry both a straight 80W and an 85/90W gear oil. just as with motor oils, straight weights tend to lubricate a little better but the mutli-viscosity oils are more popular, as they can be used year-round. Either one will work just fine in your final drive!

 

They're not. It's a cone with a hole in the side. A little cap spot welded on top to keep rain out. If you run it in deep water it's going to get some in.

 

thanks for all the tips - i guess i'll chalk it up to being over filled (the bike was on the center stand - and when i pulled the fill plug, oil started gushing out). and, yes, it is now filled to the bottom of the threads on the fill plug.

definitely will be changing that oil asap.

thanks again, y'all

 

I believe the proper level is to the top edge of the filler hole.

 

I second ski84. At least it is that spec for my bikes. Perhaps a bit different for others.

 

hmm - just checked my hayne's manual and the photo and description on page 36 makes me think it should be filled to the bottom of the threads on the filler bolt.

however, the drawing and description on pg. 37 seems to indicate the proper level is to the top edge of the filler hole. i.e. fill it up til it starts pouring out, wait for it to stop pouring out and it's full . . .

i'm gonna venture to guess that either is ok - both levels being upper and lower limits of acceptable.

but . . . i do love me a good debate.

 

Well, since the oil filler port is at angle, when the oil reaches the bottom of the threads at one side of the hole, the oil will be at the top of the opposite side of the threads........so yes, fill 'er up untl it's about to spill over, and that's just enough!

 

if you had to take gear oil out with a syringe it wasn't over filled lol

 

dang it

 

Go to autoparts store on the bike. Buy 80W90 hypoid gear oil. Take bike home. Put bike on center stand. Undo the drain bolt with a jar underneath the drain. Clean off the bolt (it has a magnetic tip that attracts the fine metal particles to keep them off the gears). Go have a snack while the last bit of oil drains (wear gloves so the snack doesn't taste so bad).

Reinstall the drain plug, open the filler plug, put oil into it (up to the now agreed upon limit :lol: ), put the filler cap on it, and be done with it.

Including the snack...it'll be a half hour or less...depending on how far the autoparts store is. Then you'll know it's the right level, and it's fresh.

 

correct...that's the way I've always done mine and never had a problem.

 

that's the plan. just waiting for payday - and hoping that they have what i need.

 

If an autoparts store doen't have 80w90 they shouldn't be in the business.

 

apparently, you've never been to the UP.

 

so, i went to the auto parts store and picked up some gear oil.

they had no GL4, but had 80w90 GL5 - they told me that GL5 will work in place of GL4, but i figured i'd double check here before i put it in my bike.