Final finishing before clear coat - coupla questions

I'm trying to rehab a paint job on a 86 700 Maxim-X black tank. The factory job was perfect except some cleaning liquid like seafoam apparently leaked from the tank and that dribble removed the paint to the bare metal. I used a rattle can of black gloss to match the original and the last finish I used to smooth down the paint & borders was 0000 steel wool.

There's an obvious difference between the original black with clear coat & this sprayed paint. Close, but the new paint is duller and when wetted looks like there is still some white "coloration" in it. I think that's from the steel wool creating a layered look.

I have everbrite clear-coat I'm going to apply to the lacquer but would like to get the rattle can paint as glossy as possible before applying the clear coat. How can I best do that without a buffing wheel?

Also, is there a more gas friendly clear coat than everbrite I might look into?

Thanks

 

I used Spray-Max from Eastwood and couldn't be happier. None of the other clear coats were gas resistant. One tack coat, then 7 minutes later a heavy wet coat and that was it. Dry in 24hrs. It can go over any base coat material. Pics are in my Gallery of my bike. I have not buffed or waxed the tank yet. Did the tank with Spraymax, the side covers are sprayed with Dupli color clear coat, which was the same as the tank until the first gas spill. Home Depot polyurethane wouldn't adhere, that was second attempt. I have already had gas and seafoam on the tank finish and it did not hurt it at all. http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k-hi ... rosol.html .

 

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

Still need help on the prepping of the rattle can black before clear coating.

idears?

 

I would sand the tank down until the bad part of the ruined paint cannot be seen. If your down to bare metal, strip the tank and reprime the tank with a good primer. Then I would put a tack coat down of the color coat, wait a few minutes and shoot a heavier coat. If you have good uniform coverage you can either wet sand down lightly with 600 grit when dry and apply another color coat. I never sand the final color coat though. hope this helps...btw...I used aircraft paint stripper from advance auto and took the original 31 year old paint off down to bare metal in about an hour with not much elbow grease...

 

I think I can get a better finish from the sprayed area, it doesn't look shiny and new, looks more dark grayish so I think there is gloss to come out of the paint as it is gloss black automotive enamel. The 0000 steel wool is not apparently a great final finish before painting. I want to shine up the paint before clear-coating.

 

I might be wrong here, and if I am, somebody will be correcting this, but the shine comes from the clear coat, not the color coat. When I did my tank, the colorcoat looked dull and wasn't reflective at all. And for sanding, I used from 600 upto 2500 grit wet/dry between coats of the clear coat until I used SprayMax...that basically only took one coat.

 

forget going back to bare metal unless you have a lot free time or enjoy playing with caustic chemicals. By using the super fine SW you created layered striations which are catching and refracting light creating the 'effect' you're seeing. Also the S wool can leave behind particles in less than smooth or not fully cured paint.

To remedy this use 1000g then 2000g wet sand paper with an almost constant flow of clean H2O. Work around the area and gradually go with less pressure as you move to the good finish. Once you've done that and you can no longer feel the change from one part to the other you can repaint with your gba enamel. Use several very light coats, low humidity, 70-75F if possible and no wind and allow plenty of time between coats (follow manufacturers rec. if you have any with the paint) then one final slightly heavier coat to finish. Once this is cured use 2000g wet again to smooth the new section to the old. Follow with 2k clear coat-same procedure light coats, same conditions, and final medium coat.

Do it this way and only a pro painter will ever be able to tell.

 

BruceB is correct, the shine is not in the base coat, it comes from the final clear coat. I never used rattlebombs, I do it the 'old fashioned' way. Base coat, clear coat (up to 4 light coats all within the manf's recommended flash time) wet sand with 800 grit, final clear coat, wet sand that with 1000, 1500, (and 2000 if I am being really anal) then buff. It's a crap-ton of work but the final result is a glass like finish something like this



Personally I just wouldn't trust spraying a clear coat over a mix of lacquer (the original finish) and enamel (your rattle can gloss black) ...but that's just me I guess.

 

The rattle-can black doesn't match the Yamaha black.

If you want to rattle-can it and get it right, get ahold of XJ4Ever. Chacal's got real Yamaha colors in rattle-bombs. And compatible clear coat.

 

just a word of advice if you run out of you base clolor and go and buy more make sure you dont buy a can with clear built in or if you do dont spray it with clear again it ruins alot of hard work

 

I'm trying to save the original pin striping on the tank. If I can deal with the paint and make it look really close to original, I'm happy. It's a 700 MaximX tank and want it to look decent as its a really fun bike to ride.

There is a definite "texture" to the paint probably from what Mercuryman outlined. When I look at what's there right now there are three areas that are obvious. 1: the new paint. 2: the steel wooled clear coat. 3: the untouched 25 year old clearcoat with black underneath. When I wet my finger and run it on the three areas, the original and scrubbed clearcoat looks extremely close to the same. The new black is not solid black but has "texture" to it. If I rub it a bit with my finger I see darkening happen to the paint which tells me there is "rubbing" left to do.

I looked around last year for some 2000 paper but found nothing, 1500 was the best I could find. Maybe I need to look on-line for 2000 paper.

& Mad_Bohemian; that's a really pretty bit of work you did, you can be really proud of it.

 

Obviously the final 'shine' comes from the clear-but that isn't the issue here as even the gloss black shouldn't be anything but black. It shouldn't be dull, but flat without depth is a more accurate description.

I wouldn't bother with 800g paper, and since your laying down enamel your coats will be so thin (doing it the right way) that you wouldn't need to do so many different grits anyway. 1500 would be fine, but I always use 2000 and don't consider that anal at all-just makes it look better. If you call around you should be able to find 2000.

No doubt it would be best to have only one type of paint, but since it is gloss black and you're trying to preserve the original style (admirable), laying enamel over fully cured lacquer is not the kiss of death. Lacquer is a 'hot' paint and once set the enamel isn't going to pollute or soften it. The key to make it look right is your prep-you must get a nice transition layer with your sanding so the enamel (in really thin coats) can lay over and blend. It is critical that the enamel has time to dry between coats.

 

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... art=0.html

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... +show.html

 

I found so far that the only clear from a rattle can that can withstand gas or chemicals is VHT clear engine paint. Look at my gallery, that is a rattle job.

How is it going Mad_Bohemian, haven't seen you in hear in a while. By the way I have seen some of your polishing job on aluminum,, It pays to be anal.

 

The black base discoloration could be due to humidity. Is it like a foggy, milky appearance? If that is the case that would explain it. You need to make sure the humidity is less than 60% anytime you are spraying. The texture on you are seeing is most likely orange peal from spraying too close when you applied the black base. You should be able to sand that out. BruceB suggestion is a very cost effective, very durable and have seen some awesome results. Spray Max is a two part urethane clear coat. I believe you have to press a button at the bottom of the can before shaking in order to mix the activator with the clear coat. Very resistant to fuel and great gloss.
Myself, I didn't use the SprayMax. I used a two part urethane clear coat and activator I purchased from an auto paint supply store. Then I used the
Praval aerosol spray system with excellent results. In your case the SprayMax is a more economical (for a small job) way to go. Be aware that once you activate it, it has only a 48 hr shelf life.
Good luck.