First Bike, 81' XJ550 Seca

Hey Everybody!

I've been reading through a lot of the posts, looking at a lot of the amazing work and I'm really excited to get started on this project Bike. I bought it from the guy after he told me he was going to clean it up, he welded the gas tank and he bought it for $500.

So, I bought it for $500CAD, it's orange. Is that a stock color? doesn't seem that way to me, but there is pin striping, and the factory emblem, which was colored by something... blue.

Anyhow, I plan on repainting. The bike seems like it's been sitting since 2001, since that's whats on the registration. So, I guess the plan is to clean the carbs, the gas tank is rusty on the inside, so maybe I could clean and seal it, but is there a supply of new or clean tanks floating around? ebay didn't have much, but I didn't know much when I was looking (model numbers, etc. You guys have educated me beyond belief). Change the brakes, clutch cable needs lubing, there is a new battery in it, maybe some spark plugs. 15K, and the way it's running is still a mystery to me, but I'm not to worried as there was not a drop of oil, no cracks, and he said it started when they bypassed the starter. Need to get a new front rubber too.

There is one thing that was going through my mind was the starting thing. He said that there was one thing missing, under the seat. It looked like a relay was missing. Is this where the starter relay is? I figured the reason somebody would do that is to prevent people from stealing it, especially if it was sitting covered in a garage for 10 years.

Anyhow, this post was probably jumbled and nonsensical, but I can't wait to get started. Pics to be oncoming.

 

That missing piece is a TCI, kinda like a ECU or CDI. TCI I believe stands for transistor controlled ignitor. They go for about $90 used on ebay but chacal can get new ones for a bit more. Be sure to check your valve clearance. Also pull that back tire and check the brake for delamination. Get the manual. Your going to need a YICS tool and a colour tune to get those carbs right after your rebuild. Good Luck and welcome to the site.

 

Also be sure to throw your location and bike info in your signature, just helps people to know what you're running and where so they can help you out better. Sounds like you're canadian though, whereabouts? Congrats on the new ride, you're going to love it!

 

We got folks from everywhere on here LOL

 

Thanks guys!

Transistor Controlled Ignitor, sounds just about right for a bike that has every piece except one missing, and it not starting. Two wires, one green and yellow I think, the other, i don't know. Spade Connectors.

I've been hearing about these YICS tools. Are they still being made? Can I buy them here?

I'm from Edmonton, my buddy is going to give me a lot of help, he's got a 2009(?) Bonneville T100 with Carbs, so he knows a wee bit more than I do, but i'm super mechanical, so this'll be fun and interesting, especially with all the guides from Rick(omatic?).

Do a lot of Yamaha Dealers hold parts for older bikes? My friend pointed me to a site, my bike barn, i think and I found 90% of my parts on there that I might potentially need; however Knowing somebody locally always helps.

So, i'm thinking Black w/ yellow stripes and the laguna seca lap on the tail.

what's all this 4 into 1 exhaust stuff I hear about? is there some benefit that I'm missing from less exhaust pressure?

 

If it only has 2 wires it is not the TCI that is missing. Another thing that sounds weird is that your wires have spade connectors. When I rewired my bike I don't remember any spade connectors. It would really help us if you could take a picture of the wires you are talking about. Under the seat is the fuse block, TCI, a relay attached to the frame crossmember just before the rear fender and a connection for the rectifier.

 

Here's what's supposed to be under the seat:




And with the cover off the fusebox:




In regard to the colors: For North America, the Seca 550 (XJ550R) came in white with red flashes and a bikini fairing for 1981; red with silver and black flashes and a bikini fairing for '82; and black with scarlet and maroon flashes and no fairing for '83.

All three years' 550 Secas are identical except for trim details.

If you look in "FAQ Suggestions" I've done a lot of articles on 550 stuff.

YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL. In the meantime, PM me with your email address and I'll send you the cable routing and component location diagrams from the factory book.

 

Yeah, as i was looking through the wiring diagrams i dug up through here and didn't see that the TCI was missing, but I have to go out to my dad's place to look, and this weekend was just getting the bike over there. (I have the Service manual(7 chapters) and electrical map, owners manual and supplimental... is that all? Is there much difference between that and the Haynes? I've rebuilt Engineering copiers from the service manual alone, so is the haynes manual really that important?)

So here is a really good question for you wizards: I want to ride as soon as I can this season, and i don't mind doing ALOT of work to get me up to top speed, almost show quality. What I'm wondering is, what's the least amount of carb work I can do considering that I have to coat/seal the tank, and it has been sitting for 10 approximate years, and started earlier this summer? Do I have to do a full rebuild to clean the carbs out, or can I just hope to jesus that some carb cleaner through the top will be enough for this season, granted I won't be pushing the bike hard in the least, since this is my first motorcycle (had a yamahopper 50cc a while back) and I don't plan any long trips (got some car trips to take ) on the bike.

What do you all think? Should I just rebuild and hope I can get it done before august? or spray and pray?

 

Just rebuild it's easy very few pieces. Just read the "Church of clean" you can find it with a quick search. It'll tell you everything you need to know.

 

"Spray and Pray" won't cut it. The passages in the Mikunis are BEYOND TINY and the only way to get them clean is to tear them down and do it right. Carb cleaner and "snake oil" you dump in the gas won't work on completely clogged passages. The procedure's in the book, supplemental info on this site. Exploded Mikuni: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

DO NOT SUBMERGE 'whole' carbs in anything; the throttle shaft seals are trapped in the bodies and unless you want to go "full monte" on them (only maybe necessary) you don't want to trap cleaner in the seals.

Float levels are critical; the 550s seem to be more sensitive to it than the bigger bikes with Hitachis;

and you HAVE to set the valve clearances before attempting to do the final vacuum sync.

In regard to manauls, if you have the factory book, you have a leg up. The Clymer (there is no Haynes for the 550s) is only OK; the factory book is much better but it too leaves things out or makes giant assumptions as to your previous skillset. To counter that, I've done a number of articles to both clarify and explain the stuff that is in the books, or fill some big gaps (like the tach drive oil seals.) Most of them are in "FAQ Suggestions."

Here's one the factory seems to almost deny the existence of: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31872.html

For parts, look no further than our own XJ4Ever. PM member chacal; or send an email to "info AT XJ4Ever.com" (Insert @ symbol.) Catalog is in "XJ4Ever-Supporting Vendor" forum or click the logo in the site banner, upper right. OBB is spotty and expensive; chacal carries it all, both OEM and aftermarket.

FIRST THING TO DO: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

Re: Exhaust and carb changes: Get the bike running correctly in 100% stock configuration and THEN decide if you think it needs "improving" performance-wise. I've got two of 'em, and I can tell you that once they're put right, you won't see much need for "improvement." They're genuinely fast, and quite a nice bike to ride.

I get flamed for posting too many pictures of my bikes, so check my gallery for a couple of examples of what can be done with a 550 Seca.

 

Update:

Since I have finally taken possession of the bike, I will be stripping the gas tank first, followed by whatever comes up next. Carbs are the biggest worry, but from what you guys have shown me, along with help from my dad (carb master) and my buddy who owns a triumph with carbs, i should be able to get this done right. Getting that YICS tool should prove fun (unless somebody here has one for sale), but I'm mainly concerned with being able to put gas in without leaks.

Anyways, Is there any quick tips about getting the tank off?

Thanks!
Graham

 

Unscrew the one bolt; lift up slightly and disconnect the fuel and vacuum lines from the petcock, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FUEL GAUGE LEAD CONNECTOR and free it from the channel in the rubber isolator (you can see it just 'below' the fusebox in the pics I posted.)

Then pull/wiggle/pull the tank straight rearward until it clears the rubber "pucks" on the side of the frame, and lift carefully off.

Set WAY out of your work area and prop up the back so it's not resting on the petcock.

 

Hey There!

Can't seem to get my seat unlatched. It's been unlatched before, but for some reason i can't figure out how the eff to get it open. I feel super tarded.

Any help would be great... thanks again guys!

 

The "helmet lock" turns both ways. Turn the key CCW, and the helmet lock opens. Turn the key CW, (hold it there) and then reach under the edge of the seat, just to the rear of the top of the shock, and there is a small lever hanging down--push it to the rear to unlatch the seat.

Note: I KNOW here that latch is; I've got enough miles on 550 Secas to where I should be able to find it by "feel" every time. NOT SO... About every third time, I have to LOOK under there and find it again.

 

Fitz - "flamed for posting too many pictures of my bikes"?! You gotta be kidding me! Your pics are always a highlight for me!

 

Dude, I should search out the thread. Flamed BAD for "looking for reasons to post pics of my bikes." Accused of doing it "out of context." I always thought pics were popular too, never had any idea I was upsetting some folks. Apparently, I have been.

So I've toned it down a tad.

 

Oh Geez! I think some people just don't like when others are successful. I am glad you keep posting. Don't let the few nay sayers give you a bad attitude. Like many others on this site, I have benefited immensely from your posts.

 

That's what that bar is! Helmet lock! Ok, that makes more sense now, I was trying to figure out what was going on, what the latch wouldn't release. Ok, now I think i'm started.

 

Excellent, and now I'm off, with the fairing cowl and tail peice off, ignition cover and soon i'm gonna get the rest of the plastics off of here.

Is the easiest way to remove the carbs through dismounting the engine, or should i just go read the guide and it'll tell me again?

 

When I remove the carbs I don't unmount the engine. Loosen the clamps on the intake manifolds and the airbox boots. Loosen the airbox (2 bolts in front and 1 in back that you access from under the seat.) from the frame and slide it back as far as it will go. This will give you enough room to wiggle the carbs out.