First bike need help with routine maintenance questions

Hello everybody I have just started riding and purchased a 1982 xj 650 maxim it ran when I bought it but after sitting a couple weeks won't start so I was going to replace some of the old stuff and see if that helps I don't know what type of oil to use also how much as well as needing help with the oil filter and spark plugs. Also I have a knowledgeable brother to help with everything just need some advice on products thanks

 

Motorcycle OIL!!! We have wet clutches. Don't use basic car oil. I don't remember the exact number, but I believe there is a 4T typically in the oil number. There is a ##CC stamped on your engine block somewhere near the oil cap. Others will now the exact amount.

If you have standard style battery, check the water level. Buy a battery tender/charger (like $20 at walmart). Not sure about your model, but make sure you didn't leave the key in the "park" setting (it leaves running lights on and drains your battery).

This site is great for help and tips. But first put your location and year/model into you profile/signature so people don't have to ask what bike over and over.

For parts beyond oil, plugs and oil filters PM Chacal (XJ4ever at the top of the page) when you need more parts.

 

Greetings Dune, you are at the right place for advice on your Maxim. First off, everybodys gonna tell you to check the brakes on your machine before you start into anything else (good advice). This site is full of threads here, just use the search. My next move would be to change the oil. Yamaha recommends 20w-40 Yamalube, but theres lots of options here-again use search. Pull the battery & check/fill to the lines on it (distilled water) & charge it. A 1 or 2 amp charger is great, dont use a big automotive charger. Im sure others will be here with more advice, just throwin in my 2 cents worth. Again, welcome & good luck!

 

Greetings, Dune......congratulations - you now have a 30 year-old bike in your garage....and you will need to check or replace virtually everything that has rubber....it's good to have a bike that runs..but it is even better if you can stop it. Both you and your brother need to read the posts on rear brake delamination, how to date your tires [and no, that does not mean taking them for a beer...], replacing outdated front brake lines, servicing the front disc caliper, how to measure and check valve clearances - before venturing near the carbs...expect to spend money if you want a safe reliable bike......my XJ was ridden over to me by the PO....$700 price - and at least that much again will go into prepping it for the road.......and that is still less than a major car service........and you will learn a lot in the process - priceless...

DaveC

 

Poor guy; didn't get much in the way of solid answers.

-Use motorcycle oil; and stay away from synthetics. It needs to be motorcycle-specific oil; current automotive oils ALL contain friction modifiers that can play havoc with your clutch. 10W40 in chilly weather; 20W50 once it stays above about 60.

-The oil capacity is indeed that little number cast into the clutch housing in the vicinity of the filler; it says XXXXCM3 which is your oil capacity in CC's. You'll want a slight overfill, so have 3 liters on hand.

-Oil level is checked with the bike on the centerstand, and the engine shut off for at least 10 minutes. Then check the oil level in the sight glass on the lower portion of the clutch housing. The level should be above the "full" marks but with a bubble still showing at the top.

-The oil filter is in the finned housing on the front of the motor; the drain plug is underneath the middle of the motor, below and behind the filter housing, on the front of the sump. If you need a pic, say so. The FRAM CH6003 is widely available, and comes with both the necessary o-rings.

-Some manuals may advise you to drain the middle gear cavity as well; DO NOT. The plug is nearly inaccessible and easily broken, leave it alone.

-Your bike uses NGK BP7ES spark plugs; use those for best results.

-All that being said,

DO NOT RIDE THE BIKE ANY MORE, EVEN AROUND THE BLOCK, UNTIL YOU HAVE REMOVED THE REAR WHEEL AND VISUALLY INSPECTED THE BRAKE SHOES FOR SIGNS OF DELAMINATION. Read this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

Also understand that unless you bought the bike from a dedicated enthusiast, you are going to need to catch up on 30 years' worth of neglect if you want to ride, use and be safe on this bike.

You will need to completely rebuild the front brake system if it hasn't been done; the bike will make you do it if you just try to ride it.

Track down a service manual. You're going to need it.

 

Thanks a lot everybody especially wizard I'll be trying to get started this weekend and this really helped luckily this bike was very well maintained 1 family owned and was a daily rider until I purchased and I hope to turn her back into one very soon

 

Bigfitz are those the same plugs, and oil filter in the 750?

 

Oil filter yes for sure; spark plugs too I think (not 100% sure since I have a 650.)

 

A lot of people will say to stay away from synthetic oils and in most cases this is true, however, there is one that I have gone to and really like. It is Mobil 1's 10W-40, Racing 4T. It is specifically designed for 4-cycle bikes with wet clutches. You can read more about it here.... http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/mot ... 0w-40.aspx
It is very expensive however but I personally like it.

 

Welcome Dunecruiser,

I am surprised that nothing was said by the others on this topic: FUSE BLOCK.

Under the seat, in the middle of the bike you will find the fuse panel. The OEM fuse panel is horrible design and a major point of failure. If that is still the original in there, you will want to replace it. Not expenseive, and the blade fuses are much nicer to work with than those glass tubes. Chacal has a good one for sale and if you want to dig, you can find additional panels which will work.

If you still have teh original 30-year old brake lines, do yourself a favor and by some stainless steel lines. They greatly enhance braking.

At some point you will have to take the carbs off and clean/rebuild them. There are lots of posts here which will walk you through step-by-step, with pic's. However, if you don't plan on doing that right this minute, I would strongly recommend that you put a full can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas.This is a high concentration but that is what is needed to start with. After filling the tank and adding the seafoam, drive it around for about 5 min or so and then park it overnight. The next day, go for a ride to empty the tank. Repeat this process a second time. Next, fill it with regular gas an go for a ride to see how it performs. If it is running properly at this point and the choke is working, you should be all set. If not, you can repeat the first process or even bump it up a bit: Put in one gallon of gas and half a can of Seafoam.

Unfortunately, if the enrichment circuit is blocked and the above does not help/resolve the problem, you will have to break down he carbs.

Another problem for these bikes is the gas we have today. These 30 year old bikes really do not like ethanol nor is it good for them. Be sure to pick up some of the fuel additive which neutralizes the ethanol and add it to each tank of gas.

As noted by others, check the condition of the various fluids: oil, brake fluid, etc. If they aren't clean/clear like new, then you will want to change it.


Finally, and again I am surprised that no one mentioned this previously, you NEED an inline fuel filter. As a side note, check the insides of the gas tank: do you see rust? Bare steel? or something else? If the last, then someone before you has coated the tank, saving you the trouble. If rust, you need to neutralize the rust and then coat the tank. If bare steel, then you are quite fortunate and should strongly consider coating it. I have used the kit from POR15 with very good success. Others will recommend Kreem and a few more.

 

One thing you should know about these bikes: when turning it off, there are two off positions for the key. The first one all the way to the left will engage a parking light which will drain your battery. The next position to the right is the one you want to use. This turns off the bike and engages the steering lock but does not run the parking light. It may be that you had it in the position all the way to the left and thereby draining the battery not realizing you turned on the parking light.

I hope that helps.

 

This isn't so on my 1982 XJ550. I don't lock my bars so I always turn the key to the left and it does not leave any lights on or drain any power.

 

OH YES it is. You've probably never put the ignition switch that far to the left if you never lock the bars.

The key has to be pushed down then turned to get to the "lock" position, and if you DO lock your bars, it's very easy to go to the "Parking Light" position. I've done it myself, one reason for renewing the label.

Note the trim ring label on the ignition switch, past "lock" is "P" and it turns the taillight on:

 

Fitz,
He said if you turn it to the left and not right!!!
I do not turn it two clicks left. I never said that. I turn it one click left and it does not leave any lights on or drain power!!!

 

That is correct. The fist click is where you want to put it. If you go past that to the next one is when the parking light comes on. It happened to me a couple of times.

 

Hello Dunecruiser .. seeing as it was a runner b4 sitting for a coupla weeks, how's th battery?.. when you say 'doesn't start' what are th details on that, turns over/ doesn't turn over/ tries to start?? .. maybe be it's not a big problem.

 

Ok so she just needed a little tlc emptied out all the old gas filled it back up charged the battery and cranked right up I was only asking about that stuff for regular maintenance since I don't personally know how old any of that stuff is and I'm looking into everything posted so far but keep it coming I'm a complete newby to bike ownership and maintenance

 

We're telling you how old that stuff is; you can't simply ignore it.

Old brakes will begin acting up as soon as you start using them; and you NEED to visually check the rear shoes; if they delaminate it can lock the rear wheel unexpectedly.

Neglected valve clearances and carbs in need of service will cause engine problems almost immediately. Hanging idle, hard starting, gas in the oil, gas on the garage floor-- you name it.

Aged tubeless tires are very dangerous to be riding around on.

This is an old motorcycle, not an old car. If you jump on it and start riding it without reversing the effects of neglected maintenance, you're going to start having "problem after problem." But they won't be problems; they'll be completely predictable symptoms of neglected maintenance.

You need to attend to all sorts of stuff; if you don't the bike won't be reliable OR you could get seriously hurt, or worse.

Ignorance IS NOT bliss when it comes to 30-year old bikes. It's a disaster looking for the scene of the crash.

 

It was garage kept for years immediately prior to my purchasing I understand it isn't new but its not falling apart either its got 40,000 miles on it and I'm sure there are things I am going to need to replace and update but if your gonna be a dick just keep ur posts to yourself there are plenty of other helpful people on here dont need your 2 cents

 

I'm sorry that you have mistaken Fitz's concern for your safety for him being a dick.

I'm also concerned for your safety, but I don't feel like being accused of being a dick for just trying to help you out.

So I'll keep my 2 cents to myself also.