Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by May_J_Aaron, Jun 24, 2018.
the one you have in photo under coils is the flasher
Do you think it would be ok to delete this White/Green wire?
I have a digital gauge from Acewell and this one is just hanging around, with engine off, power on, it's showing a little over 7 Volts.
Could I have issues getting rid of it?
Use it for something else, possibly small fan for oil cooler??? (Arizona heat)
colored LED lights to illuminate the bike for night time safety?
many of us have taken out the canceling unit with out issue if you cut that wire your self canceling unit will not function as it will not get its signal from speedo.
if you did the atari delete with the acewell installed the wire does nothing for you. unless the acewell has a reed switch .
What does it cancel?
The turn signal???
I don’t think it has a reed switch as this is the new setup.
Sadly this brand new speedometer cable is way too long, hopefully it’s not too expensive to have a custom one made
Then wouldn’t I want to keep it?
perhaps I don’t know how it’s meant to function...
does it self cancel after a certain time or speed?
without it would I just have the move the blinker switch back to middle or press it?
I just played with my turn switch, it may be different than my other bikes, I think I push it “down” to cancel the signal... I didn’t get to ride it much before tearing it apart.
PS: Thank you for helping!
A combo of both time and distance travelled.....the reed switch "counts" tire revolutions and this provides the "distance travelled" input to the self canceller.
Yes, and BTW, you should ALWAYS press the signal switch "in" (or down, on some switches, such as yours) after signalling is done (self-cancelled or not) as that is the way the system is designed to be used, says so right in the operator's manual!
Wow, did not think that would exist on a bike of this age, some newer bikes don’t do that!
ive always presses the button even on my newer bike that self cancels, I don’t look down enough to care if it’s on or not.
so it’s safe to remove the Self Cancelling box and all the wires connected to it?!
Yes, the system is designed so that if the self-canceller fails, the signals will still operate. Just un-plug it from the harness.
awesome, then it’s going on the trash unless someone wants it!
Now I can’t figure out the Peach and Brown wires for the tachometer...
The only other Peachis attached to the horns, simply to connect them so that’s useless...
black is definitely Ground.
what’s the function of Peach and Brown, how do I get them to read tach?
completely confused by this one!
We'll take it!
don't care to look it up, don't think you do.
that wire that says (plug, ign coil) yellow, goes to the - side of the coils, thinking it's a gray wire.
-side of the coils should go to the tci.
or wrap that yellow wire around a spark plug wire a few times, and don't connect it anywhere.
if you go with the gray wire you might need a resistor in the wire, about 1 MEG ohm if i remember right.
if you see rpm's all over the place, crazy numbers, you need the resistor
Quick-draw Len beat me to that one——-
Thanks! The wiring step had me scared to jump in for awhile but after going through it at least 100 times, I'm getting slightly more comfortable especially with the help of the community!
I have a terminal wire removal tool coming in on Wednesday that will allow me to use the same plastic clips so I can trim the wires back at least a foot, while untangling the mess they created by wrapping wires around and through each other...
After doing a test run I’m gonna have to install the upgraded fuse block I have waiting, to avoid future issues here.
Everything seems to run fine... HOWEVER
When looking at its current status:
~2 solid Reds- tied together NO FUSE! (Main, should be 30A)
~2 Brown- currently on 20A (Signal, should be 10A)
~ 2 Red/Yellow- currently on 20A (Head, should be 10A)
suppose to be 1 Brown?
~ 2 Red/White- currently on 20A (Ignition, should be 10A)
is this also suppose to have a Brown?
Is this guide correct and my wiring is screwed up but functioning or is there an error with the guide?
I obviously have the wrong fuses installed but the wiring guide has me concerned
Yes, but you don't have to "remove any wires", just un-plug the connector shell from the main harness that leads to the self-canceller. Don't cut anything or your risk becoming the "dreaded P.O."..........
The main fuse for 750 seca and the 82 750 Maxim a 30 amp because of the Atari package. The way the fuse system works is the battery feeds the main fuse, the main fuse feeds the ignition switch, and the brown wire coming back from the ignition switch feeds the other fuses. So yes the drawing is correct all the fuses except the main fuse are fed by the same
Wire. The brown wire comes down from the key and then they crimp Subwires to that main brown wire and feed the remaining fuses.
right now is the time to think about headlight relays to run the light with some #14 wire and get a brighter light
That was on my mind as I saw that somewhere in the forums, I'm having issues releasing the terminal spades from the terminal boxes using a tool I bought from Amazon so I'm going to just cut back the wires and install them into new waterproof terminal boxes that will function much better!
Once the wires are looking good, I'll do another test run, then install the new fuse box!
Next I want to do as you suggest with the headlight wire as it works Okay but needs to be much brighter!
I saw this idea a long time ago somewhere in the forums...
This is GREAT to know!