First time registering. Problem is in the intake boots?

Ok first I want to say I have read at least 45 pages in this fourm over the past few weeks. I have gotten so much information about this bike. I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who posted here. So this is what I have questions on. Now I am sure I know the answer but here it goes. I have aquired an 82 maxim xj650 J model. With about 13000 miles on it. I have l cleaned the carbs and the passage ways. several times. I am pretty sure it is the intake boots that is giving me problems. I can just get it to idle and than the RPMs race and I have to start all over again. I made the sysnc gauge as well and after ( ok don't laugh) I learned that you have to conect the other side of one tube to anouther carborator it seemed ot work pretty good. Ok stop laughing. So with every thing I have read and experianced I have ot beleive it is the intack boots. I just wanted to vent and get some other sugestions.

Thank you

 

When you cleaned the carbs how far did you break them down? Did you take each carb out of the rack? If so then the butterflies may not be static synced.
Why do you suspect the intakes? The main reason they would be suspect are cracks in the intakes. This leads to a lean mixture which will cause a higher than normal idle. Air can get in at the airboots on the other side of the carbs too or even from the throttle shaft seals. The mixture screws could be set lean also. So we need to know what was removed from the carbs and how they were cleaned and what they were cleaned with. This keeps us from a wild goose chase.

 

Go Old School and set-up the Pilot Jets.

Start at Factory ( 2.5 Out) and Tweak IN until the engine stumbles. Tweak OUT listening to idle. When you get the best idle out of #-1 ... do 2,3 & 4 like that too.

Then, Re-Tweak. Out until you have the best idle. At that spot ... teenie-tweak Rich and do the whole rack like that.

If it won't stay idling at the beginning of the tweak ... Set them all to 2.75 Out to begin the testing and tweaking.

 

HMM. I have not taken the carbs off the racks, and after reading yet again a post abouit cleaning the carbs, I have not broken them down as far as I had thought. I have adjusted the fuel air mix to 2.5 and 2,75 but now I a mthinking I may remove and thouraly re clean the carbs before I drop $100.00 on a set of intack boots.

 

I am not saying break the carbs out of the rack. I was just inquiring as to whether or not you had. It is best not to. IF you had I would have thought the problem lied with their removal from the rack. There is no need to remove them unless you are replacing the trottle shaft seals. Remember at this point I am only asking what you have done and will give recommendations for action after that.
Rick is telling you how to set the mixture so as to see if the problem is there. Go simple and easy first. I am leaving tomorrow for a bike rally so I will let the other gurus take it from here. So far I don't see a need to even remove the carbs. That may be the outcome but right now I would do my best to tune the cleaned carbs. Then check for air leaks.

 

I want to thank everyone once again for there help. I will re hash what I have done because I was very tired the first time. When I got the bike it would only start with starting fluid. The guy I got it from said it sat for aver a year before he started playing with it. When I got it I cleaned the carbs and I was able to get it to start on its own. But I could not get the carbs to sysnc. I tried the RTV on the boots, and that did not work. I now have cleaned the carbs, several times. The diaphrams look good. You can see throug the jets and the varnish is off everything. I have clean screens under the needle ( not sure the exact term for it) under the floats. I have blown air through the whols system while all the parts were out. I removed the boots again and after cleaning them I applied a product that the bike shop recomended. It is gray and I think it is called three bond, not sure of the name. So I have put it all back together, re adjusted the fuel/ air screws to the 2.5 turns out. and I still have the same problem. It starts I can just get 1 & 4 sysnced and when I move on to sysnc 1&2 it goes to about 5000rpm, I have tried to staticly adjust the butterflys to just barly open but that does not seem ot allow the bike to start very well. I am lost. And almost ready to bring it to the shop. Any sugestions would be great. It is a 82 maxim 650 j. with about 13000 miles. on a side note I have a 82 gs1100 with a blown head gasket I need ot work on so I can trade/ sell it for an xs650. I want to build / have a hard tail.

 

Sometimes this little trick works getting the carbs to sync-up. Take the YICS Plugs out of BOTH sides of the engine ... if your bike is a YICS bike, of course.

Clean-out the YICS passage by stuffing some small patches of carb cleaner soaked terry-cloth all the through the passage. Use a wood dowel or a fiberglass dowel so nothing gets scratched-up. Push the soaked patch through until if falls out the other side.

Repeat the process until the patches fall out the other side -- clean.

Put the cap back on the right side and insert the tool.

Sync the carbs in this fashion:

First: Sync the Number-1 Carb - to - Number-2
Second: Sync the Number-4 Carb - to - Number-3
Then: Sync the Number-2 Carb - to - Number-3

When you sync the Number-2 Carb - to - Number-3 ... the Number-1 Carb goes along for the ride; because Number-1 is connected to Number-2
Since Number-3 has NO adjustment ... its critical to sync Number-4 - to - 3.

When - 1 - is synced to - 2 ... and, 4 is synced to - 3 ... the process is reduced to just getting -2 and -3 synced.

It really helps to spray some WD-40 on the sync screws and work the lube in to make the screw respond to fine adjusting without binding ans skipping the right spot for tuning.

Putting the rack in sync without benefit of the YICS tool requires that the engine be running faster than idle. The danger is the distinct possibility of sucking mercury from the carb sticks into the intake.

The mercury vapor immediately created by accidentially drawing mercury into the engine is BOTH very harmful to the respiratory system and a known, dangerous cancer-causing hazardous material.

2,000 rpm Tops ... with an assistant's finger on the kill switch if the engine starts to run-away.

 

That sounds great, I was trying to use the sync method I found but I think it was for a 550 or something. I never thought about the passage way needing to be cleaned. I hate to give up on something but this has totaly kicked my a--! I will have to give that a shot when I get off. i just hate the thought of bring it to the shop and spending money on something that I should by all rights be able to do. Just for the record I am using trans fluid in my home made sticks. And I also made the ycis tool my self. I made sure all the mesurments were correct but sometimes I second guess things like that.