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Fork Help Please

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by NACHOMAN, Mar 15, 2006.

  1. NACHOMAN

    NACHOMAN Member

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    Hello,

    I've been lurking here for the last week or so. I have a 1982 xj750 seca. I think it is an "r" model. My current problem has to do with removing the fork sliders. One side dissambled fine, except I cant get the slider out of the tube. It seems to be hitting the fork seal when I pull it up. Did I miss some part that needs to be removed? The other fork is a different story all together. The "cap" seemes to be rust welded in the slider. I soaked it with wd-40, pounded on it for a while, and even heated it up with a torch. It will not budge. Has anyone had experience with this? Are there any tricks to getting the caps out? Any help greatly appreciated.....

    Nachoman 8)
     
  2. jdrich48

    jdrich48 Member

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    The caps have to be pushed down about 1/4 inch then remove the small wire circlip inside, this wire ring holds the cap in.
    As for separating the fork tubes get a 3 inch long metrc bolt with a 19mm head double nut the other end( install 2 nuts and tighten them together). insert into tube. Use a 18 inch extention on your ratchet and put in tube to hold inside bolt. On the bottom of the tube you'll see a allen head bolt, this bolt should have loctite on it so it may be tight While holding the inside bolt, loosen the allen bolt and remove it.
    Then you should be able to remove the inside shaft.
    Then remove the wiper seal(dust seal), then there should be another wire clip holding the oil seal in, remove it and the seal.

    This is not the proper size bolt, but you get the idea. the measurements for the proper tool are shown above. I also welded the nuts to the bolt. If you do that you could use 1 nut.
     

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  3. Flatwound

    Flatwound Member

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    Hey JDRich- THANKS for a great explanation. I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to disassemble my forks to replace the oil seals, and reading the Yamaha shop manual mentions 2 special tools- one to hold the inner tube, and one to properly seat the oil seal. Your description makes it sound pretty easy.
    Thanks again
    Bill Carroll
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Bill, another opinion to add to the great advice Rich sent you. You can probably expect to find the wire circlips in the tube slider to be rusted as well. The dealer wanted $13 a piece for those stupid things so I popped on down to the local hardware store and bought internal "E" clips of 1" size to replace them at a dollar a pop. Much beefier and can be had in stainless steel. If you brouse our forum, you will find similar questions and some great tricks posted. Good luck!
     
  5. jdrich48

    jdrich48 Member

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    Something I forgot, when you remove the bolt from the bottom of the fork, it has a brass sealing washer on it. When I removed mine the washers were stuck inside the tube and I lost one. If you can find replacements I suggest replacing them. They are similar to the brass washers on brake lines. In fact if you could find them the same size they should work.
     
  6. SnoSheriff

    SnoSheriff Site Owner Staff Member Administrator

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    I swear I saw a graphic for this home made tool somewhere :?. I'll have to check the forum and picture gallery to see if I can track it down...
     
  7. jdrich48

    jdrich48 Member

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    Snosherff; I posted that pic and deleted it from my gallery. I'll post it again when I get home
     
  8. NACHOMAN

    NACHOMAN Member

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    Thanks for all the replies so far. I've got the circle clips out of both sliders. The fork I was able to get apart seemed to have the bottom bolt going into the dampening rod. I got that bolt out with the sealing washer. My problem is: when I pull the slider out of the leg it comes almost all the way out, then stops, almost like there is an oversized washer on the bottom of the slider that hits the seal. On another note, I had read the posts about the 19 mm socket thing, but I couldn't find a part on my fork that looked like that. The other fork basically has the spring cap frozen in the slider. I think I might have to drill it out somehow and get a new one. Keep the ideas coming.....
     
  9. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    I know just what you are encountering Nacho, your gonna have to just yank that sucker out. The seal is rusted into the leg seat. It will pop out if you just use the slider tube like a slide hammer. As for the 19mm dohicky, it is the damper rod top that has a knurled internal head that the 19mm bolt head drops into. The Haynes manual has a nice picture of the bolt and nut stack Rich is referring to.
     
  10. NACHOMAN

    NACHOMAN Member

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    I'll give 'er a go tomorrow. I just used my impact wrench for the allen head bolt, and it worked great. Thanks for all the suggestions so far. Anyone else on the fork cap problem??
     
  11. NACHOMAN

    NACHOMAN Member

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    Well, I tried the slide hammer approach, and the slider still won't come out. Then I stuck a section of 1" steel pipe down the slider, and pounded on it. That didn't budge it either. I'm really up the creek here. Does anyone have any ideas? The other fork cap is still stuck as well. I'm about to toss this thing in the dumpster........AAAARRRRRRGGGGHHH!!!!
     
  12. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    It is a royal pain and requires a little more than what I concider normal force to do this. Don't give up, try a little harder. Let the slider tube seat all the way down the leg, have a buddy hold the leg, and pull as hard and as fast as you can away from said buddy while he pulls opposite. Have faith brother!
     
  13. NACHOMAN

    NACHOMAN Member

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    Should I be able to pound it out from the top? It really won't budge at all. I've already got a bunch of parts requests in to salvage yards......
     
  14. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Not to my understanding of your response. DO NOT continue sticking anything down into the slider to pound it out! YOU will do damage! Dang it, wish I had caught that in your last post. This will only screw up your damper rod! Let me see if I can be clearer on this. The "slide hammer" approach is not a one man opperation unless you can clamp the leg firmly in a bench vise that is securely bolted down (use a little padding to prevent the soft aluminum from being scored). It WILL take a bit of muscle! Another quick question, did you remove the circlip springs that rest on top of the seals first?
     
  15. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Addendum to my previous post. The pounding of a 1" pipe into the slider will not damage the damper rod if you removed it already. It will instead mess up the machined surface of the fork tube itself, making a good seat for the damping rod very difficult. DO NOT DO this. It is an excercise in futility. The bottom of the slider tube is cupped with a hole for the securing bolt threaded through it. This means all your pounding is for naught, your simply beating on the slider tube itself, further seating it in the leg, not the opposite. Your pipe banging more than likely will damage the sealing surface of the bottom of the slider tube. Let's try another tack, attempt to pry out the old seal with a screwdriver. Don't worry about tearing up the seal, your replacing it anyway. Shred it up and pry it up. Let us know where you are when you can. Rob.
     
  16. NACHOMAN

    NACHOMAN Member

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    SUCCESS!!! My forks are disassembled! The fork with the slider sticking issue, turned out to be a retaining clip problem. As in I hadn't found the retaining clip for the fork seal yet. Once I removed the outer seal and the retaining clip, everything came apart fine. The other fork which had the cap issue ended up being harder to figure out. One of the PO's had installed Progressive springs in the bike (as well as Koni's in the rear). The preload spacers are made out of pvc pipe. When I heated up the fork in attempt to free it, the pvc melted and effectively welded the cap to the slider. Once I realized this, I just heated up the slider real good to melt the pvc, and the cap came out after a few good whacks upside down on a 2x4. Now the only question is, how badly did I harm the first slider by whacking on it with the pipe. Any ideas???

    I am a happy camper. Thanks for all the help and encouragement.
     
  17. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Didn't I mention that clip Nacho? I'm pretty sure I did. Your guess is as good as mine on the slider tube. I believe I wailed and nashed my teeth writing the last post I sent you. I would chuck it unless you know someone with a borescope that can snake down inside the slider to check it out. If all of the parts slide in and out freely, just slap it together and see how it rides. If it sticks, you need new ones.
     
  18. NACHOMAN

    NACHOMAN Member

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    Oh you mentioned it. The problem was I thought it had been left out. This is my first time disassembling forks. And there are a few bodge jobs on this bike. All my older Yamahas (RD 350's) Have much larger dust seals. I figured the dust seals were the fork oil seals, so I didn't remove them first. I just didn't dig deep enough, and the parts diagram on the Yamaha site isn't that clear. Is there a place that reproduces the sliders, Or should I just get a set of used forks?
     
  19. jdrich48

    jdrich48 Member

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    I don't understand why the seal was holding the tube in. I removed my tubes before taking my seals out, of course I have a maxim so they may be different. Unless the damper was stuck to the tube. I had to remove the seals before I could remove the damper, but the shaft came right out.
     
  20. secaman

    secaman Member

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    hmm i'm thinking about changing my seals too

    i found a guy who says he has forks

    and that i should just swap forks.

    the question is: are maxim and seca forks the same?

    or are 750 and 650 forks the same, etc?

    i'm dieng to get my cd/parts exchange when is it due?
     

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