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Front axle assembly

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by BleedingOxide, Apr 2, 2014.

  1. BleedingOxide

    BleedingOxide Member

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    Cant figure this out..
    The left fork drifts along the axle, with nothing to stop it.
    Ive double checked the clymer, old photos, cmsnl microfische and it looks like i built it right, but because the fork wanders, it gets away from the speedo gear.
    See the gap below.

    [​IMG]

    Axle enters from the left, through the speedo gear, through the wheel assembly, through the spacer, the washer and the castle nut.
    Clymer sez, tighten castle nut to 50ft/lbs (from memory) then tighten the pinch bolts at the bottom of the forks. The clymer jumps around a bit, so im assuming i can do this with the forks in the triple tree
    (But i get the same problem even if i dont install them)

    What do i do now?
     
  2. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    There's a spacer that should be in there as well.
     
  3. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The left fork CAN "drift along the axle" that's because the axle pulls up tight against the RH fork leg. The left one is free to find its own "position" (within reason) so that tightening up the axle doesn't cause the forks to bind. The pinch bolt on the bottom of the fork leg is the only thing that grabs onto it, on the left.

    On my '83, there isn't a whole lot of "engagement" between the left leg and the speedo drive gear housing; just enough.
     
  4. BleedingOxide

    BleedingOxide Member

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    Cheers, sorry for failing to link the pic,
    KrS14, yep spacer is there and mentioned in the list.
    Fitz, cheers again for your endless information and advice.

    I guess I just gotta knock it closer then use the pinch bolt..
    seems odd tho.
    Is there any other method?
     
  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Is your fender mounted?

    If so, take it off. Then do the proper sequence, fork-bouncy tightening thing which will allow the forks (not the fender) to determine where they need to be, which is what we need.

    Then re-mount the fender.
     
  6. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    Fitz, Can you please explain the "fork-bouncy tightening thing" in more detail?

    Thanks.
     
  7. BleedingOxide

    BleedingOxide Member

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    Ah yeeas the fender..
    Im guessing the fork-bouncy technique is where you torque your axle then push up and down frantically on the handlebars while the front end "finds itself"

    Then presumably the pinch bolts and finally the fender.
    Gotit.
     
  8. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That would be the technique.

    SNUG the axle nut; loosen the fork pinch bolts in the lower triple clamp and then snug them up, then loosen the axle pinch bolts and then just snug them up, then bounce the fork a couple of times. Torque the triple tree pinch bolts to the proper spec. Bounce again. Tighten the axle nut, torque to spec. Bounce again. Torque axle pinch bolts to spec. Double-check torque on axle nut; then fit a new cotter pin.

    Then, remount the fender. But in doing so, adjust it as necessary so it fits smoothly, snugly and straight between the fork legs. The original front fender has a quite stout heavy stamped plate fender brace welded up inside in the area where it mounts. If the fender is tweaked it can cause your forks to bind. You don't want to have to squeeze it in there nor do you want the mounting bolts to have to pull it into place.
     

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