Front Forks?

Can anyone post some pixs of a rebuild of the front forks?

Thanks

 

This is the name of the document you are looking for. Go to forum topics select FAQ Final hit the search dealy at the top of the page and type HOW To: Change your fork seals. EXCELLENT step by step write up by Gamuru.

 

i dont mean to scare you but be prepared to make the tool for the dampener nut. i fabricated my own (different) Everything else is pretty simple.

 

Here's an easy made tool for the dampers, 20mm x 20mm box sec'.

 

Geez Wiz I always thought you were British. That looks decidedly... oh, never mind.

ANY form of 19mm hex on a long stick will work. Two nuts jammed against each other on a threaded rod, a bolt welded to the end of a rod, a spark plug socket flipped around on about 3 extensions, or like the {ahem} "tool" that Wiz made; anything to stop it from turning. chacal stocks a "real" tool too, if you're interested.

Don't be mislead by our resourceful friend's tool in the pic, you are trying to engage a HEX at the other end. (Sorry Wiz but that's a bit "expedient" even for you...) CBE.

 

What bike do you have? Just a reminder that the end of the damper rod on the 750 Seca forks do not have the hex shape. It is round and the tool will not hold the tube while you try to loosen the retaining bolt.

 

Nor will it fit the 1100's, either.....................

 

what, pray, are you implying, Mr Fiztgerald?

 

Why nothing, kind sir. Your reign as the King of Resourcefulness continues unchallenged. The end results speak for themselves, your Kawasaki is awe-inspiring.

 

Not sure if you have checked with your dealer or not but my dealer rebuilt both of my forks for 150 bucks. I had the SECA 750 Anti-dive. That price included the seals. They looked GREAT when I got them back and I did not have the headache of wondering if I was doing it right or if I had the right tools.

It was worth it to me!

 

I have mine apart right now, there is nothing easy nor simple about the 750 SECA forks with the anti-dive. The oil lock complicates matter immensely.

 

83Rider, You got a good deal I just dropped my forks off for my 82 750 Seca and the quote was 300 out the door. 2hours labor 149, the rest parts. Well I think I may have been able to do it but didnt want to chance it. Not sure what they ordered but looking on different web sites comparing prices for all the seals and orings 150 bucks for both forks wasnt to far off.

 

I just got my forks done this week (don't actually have the bike back yet) but the shop quoted me $100. Total they adjusted my carbs and redid my forks for $211. I also had them check out my starter and my electrical system, so I figure $100 is about accurate on the forks.

 

Just took mine out for the first time since rebuilding the forks. I think I'll need to pick up a precision pressure gauge, since my standard tire gauge doesn't read low enough to let me accuratly put 5.7PSI into the forks.

They do feel better, though, and it's nice not to have the right seal leaking anymore.

If you're doing a bike with anti-dive, definitely be careful not to push the stanchion all the way back down when you're trying to pull it, and the seal, and the upper boss, out of the tube. I found it easier to pull the stanchion out by holding the tube in one hand and the stanchion in the other, rather than by clamping anything. You'll probably get oil all over the place, even though the leg is theoretically drained, and be careful not to lose those little washers once you do have everthing apart.

Contrary to Hayne's recommendations, no heating of the fork leg was needed to reseat the boss... it slipped in relatively easily when using Schedule 40 PVC pipe as a driver.

Cheers,
Paul

 

By "boss" you are referring to the teflon-coated (on the ID), split ring Guide Bushing, known to Yamaha engineers as a "Metal Slide #1", which fits under the lower fork tube oil seal, at the very top of the lower tube.

Right?

 

They quoted me a half hour labor per fork plus parts. They had a labor rate of 60/ hour. So I had about 90 bucks in parts. Again, it was important to do it right the first time, normally I would have tackled the job myself but these forks are becoming rare!! Did not want to mess anything up.

My bike is ready to rock and roll now just in time for the riding season!

 

Yes. Actually, now that you mention it, the manual calls it the upper bush, not the upper boss. Sorry for the confusion.

Cheers,
Paul

 

Any one know which threadlock is recommended on the damper bolt and anti dive mounting screws, red or blue? Thanks in advance.

 

I use blue on the damper rod, purple (low strength) on the antidive screws.

 

Thanks Robert, it looked like it was red when I took it apart, but that didn't seem right.