Front Wheel bearings

Can anyone tell me if the front wheel bearings are pressed in on my '82 750 seca or should I be able to remove them with my seal/bearing puller?
I lost my manual during one of my many moves since I have had my Seca.
Wouldnt you know I was procrastinating about buying a new battery. The day I did drop the dough to get the new battery with in 20 miles my bearings started screaming!!!
I have found new bearings, and being that I am a car mechanic I would like to think that I can save some cash on labor!

 

They are a press-fit into the wheel hub, but there is a steel spacer tube in-between the bearings, which means yoou typically need to use a drift (long punch) to remove one of them, and then the bearing puller can be used to remove the other one (or, the drift can be used on the 2nd bearing, too).

 

Cool. Thats good news. That will save me $15 a side labor.
Then I should just be able to pop the new ones back in with a socket. Right?
After all I do not have a press.

 

A socket will work, or use the old bearings as a "driver" and hit the old bearings with the hammer or socket.....

 

A little more info...........


FRONT WHEEL BEARING, AXLE, AND SPEEDOMETER DRIVE PARTS:

wb2) Original and aftermarket wheel and axle parts, bearings, and seals will restore that like-new ride and feel to your machine.

Note that if you plan to replace the bearing yourself, that removal of pressed-in bearings such as these can be rather difficult without special tools. We have an 8-piece bearing removal tool kit to help make this job easier listed further below.


How to check for worn annular ("ring-shaped") bearings:

- With the wheel off the ground, grab the tire with hands opposite each other. If the axle is pointing at your navel, push one hand away and pull the other toward you, then reverse the motion. If you feel play, the bearings are shot.
- Or with the wheel off the bike, stick your finger in the axle hole and rotate. If you feel anything "crunchy," the bearings are shot. Do both sides of the wheel.
- Worn wheel bearings can make the wheel "wobble", feel like it's out of balance, not allow the back to track straight, or can make it feel as though the bike has a tire low on air.


Wheel Bearing Removal:

- Use a long punch (should have a good edge) or a bearing removal tool such as our HCP7850.
- Remove any circlips or retainers.
- Insert the punch into the wheel and catch the edge of the bearing on the other side. Using a hammer, hit the punch and work around the entire circumference of the bearing. The bearing and seal will eventually be pushed out of the wheel hub.
- The second bearing can be removed using a punch, a long socket or other suitable driver.

NOTE: bearings will be damaged during the removal process and should not be reused. The hammer blows transmit their impact through the balls causing small flat spots, which will cause the bearing to quickly fail if reused.


Inspection:

- Inner Spacer: Check the bore to make certain it is clean and the axle easily passes through it. Check each end for wear and burrs. The edges must be square to seat properly against the new bearings.
- Wheel Hub: Clean the hub, removing any dirt and corrosion. Make certain not to remove metal. This will adversely affect bearing fit.
- Outer wheel spacers: Clean the outer wheel spacers and inspect them for wear on either end as well as wear on the outer surface where it makes contact with the seal. If the spacers are excessively worn they should be replaced.


Wheel Bearing Installation:

NOTE1: Improper installation will cause bearing damage and dramatically reducing bearing life.

NOTE2: Freezing the bearing overnight and Heating the wheel hub will cause the hub to expand slightly and will make bearing installation much easier. Make sure the area of the hub that the bearing will be installed into is clean, free of any nicks or burrs or flaws. Polish lightly with 400-grit (or finer) paper for a silky smooth finish, and apply a thin film of lubricant to this area before driving the bearing home properly and evenly.

The three simple rules to bearing installation are:

1. Apply pressure ONLY to the outer race of the bearing.
2. Apply pressure evenly so the bearing remains square to the wheel hub.
3. Remember to place the inner spacer between the bearings, and make sure to re-install or acquire the proper SPACER FLANGE for your application and model. This thin, flat, flanged spacer fits over one end of the spacer tube, and is vital to proper wheel bearing orientation and performance. Because it is so small, it is easily lost or mis-placed during wheel dis-assembly.


Definitions: All bearings that we offer are high-speed, single-row ball bearings. Roller-element bearings (ball bearings and roller bearings) are rated according to the standards and specifications of the Annular Bearing Engineers Committee (ABEC), and are graded by how precisely they are machined to their dimensional tolerances. Although other factors come into play in determining the "quality" of a bearing----such as the type and quality of the grease that the bearing is packed with----for all practical purposes, you can consider a bearing with a higher ABEC rating number to be a better quality bearing (1 being the lowest and 7 being the highest for metric-sized bearings). And the more precisely a bearing is machined and assembled, the more costly it will tend to be.

"Standard-duty" bearings are rated at least to the ABEC-1 standard for bearing design tolerances, and thus for their reliability and longevity in these wheel bearing applications. Depending on usage and conditions, these bearings are good for 20 - 50,000 miles of "typical" use.

"Medium-duty" bearings are of the same type and grade as used by Yamaha originally, and meet their standards. Although nominally rated at an ABEC-1 standard, most will actually pass the ABEC-3 standard upon inspection. Depending on usage and conditions, these bearings are good for 50,000+ miles of "typical" use.

"Extreme-duty" bearings are rated at least to the ABEC-3 (or higher) standard for bearing design tolerances, and thus for their reliability and longevity in these applications. Depending on usage and conditions, these bearings are good for the lifetime of your bike with "typical" use

By the way, bearings are available that meet ABEC-5 and ABEC-7 standards, but they are outrageously expensive, as they are designed for ultra-duty applications, military equipment and the like, and are not offered by us.


Wheel bearings fail for a number of different reasons:

- old age, usage greater than their intended life expectancy.
- improper installation techniques (surest and quickest way to kill bearing!). This includes banging on the inner race (the "inner ring") or over-torquing the axle retaining bolts.
- environmental contamination, especially moisture intrusion caused by high-pressure spray washers which force water in and grease out of the races.
- extreme use (racing, etc.) that generate heat and loads greater than the bearing grade is designed for.
- too little, too much, or incorrect type of grease. Although many bearings are sold as "sealed" bearings, for the longest life and best performance, they should periodically be cleaned and re-greased. Too much grease is a bad thing, as it causes the balls to have to "fight" their way through all of the grease, building heat, and thus shortening the bearing life. Most bearings require a 30-40% "fill rate" in their cavity to be properly lubricated, with a high-temp, high-load, water resistant grease such as our HCP8608 Red Moly Grease.


Finally, ALWAYS replace at least the wheel axle "castle nut" COTTER PINS whenever they have been removed.


By the way, a neat little "visual tour" of bearing manufacturing are made can be found at:

http://www.ntn-snr.com/group/fr/en-en/i ... /formation

 

Wow!
What a great help you have been!
That rocks and I am so glad I became a part of this site.
Thanks a million Chacal!!!

 

yeah Chacal is the man for infor and for parts. The bearings are fairly straight forward. I used a blind bearing puller on mine because they were stuck pretty good.