Front wheel/brake disc slightly offset

Hi XJers! something I have looked into over the years and still don't have a perfect solution for:

On my XJ650, with the single left side brake disc on the front, with the front wheel in place, correct parts in order, the disc sits at the very left side of the "groove" above the caliper, molded into the fork tube.

It doesn't rub - is very close - but the whole wheel sits slightly offset, to my left when riding. Over the years I have replaced the steering bearings, wheel bearings, and a brake pad and caliper overhaul, and a few new front tires. Each time I checked over and over that all the pieces were in alignment based on the Haynes manual, pg 188. *I have also performed Hogfiddles fork alignment, and followed the recommended axle tightening process to a T.

To be honest, despite that the manual doesn't indicate a washer in between the speedo gear unit and the fork, if I added one that was about 3 mm, it would be perfect. I assume that would be a ghetto thing to do and probably throw something else out of alignment.

Any thoughts?

 

got a photo or two?

 

Sometimes the upper fork tubes get a little tweaked (not really bent, just a slight bow. they are still perfectly fine to use), because people run into things for some dumb reason that I never could understand.
Loosen up the triples (and the axle) and give the uppers a spin around to see if the gap tightens up.

Caveat: this can also be a sign the the fork bushings are worn and in need of replacement (they will not wear concentrically).

 

Interesting, k-moe. I'll try messing with the uppers. I have the wheel off for new rubber right now, but this weekend I'll work on it.

I'll add a couple images, too. If I end up fixing it then it might be before/after photos

 

Update: With the front axle still loose, I loosened up the triples and twisted the upper fork tubes. There was no binding at all - they seem to be strait. The gap didn't change. I also checked the fork alignment again (hogfiddles method), and forks are completely strait.

Attached are pics of the axle nut side, pinch bolt side, and a dead on view so you can see how the rotor is to the left in the caliper groove (probably has a name).

 

Thanks for the pics helps tons... So is the left front disk rubbing on the left front fork? I can't tell if it is rubbing or just looks close? The caliper will move as needed when the brake is being used. It slide to allow for wear on the brake pads as needed. As long as the brake disk is not hitting or grinding hmmm.

This is from my project xs1100 looks to be just as close and it is working fine.
DSCN0267 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

Hey tim, yep its almost identical to yours. Within a milimeter or two of actually touching the left fork guide/groove.

It wouldnt bother me so much except that the bike has always had a slight pull to the right (even in a flat parking lot). I posted about it a few yrs ago, and wonder if its related.

With all other corrections - fork alignments, new tires, wheel bearings, brake/caliper, and real wheel work too - I think I have ruled out plenty of factors.

 

You would not only have a mark on the disk from it rubbing, you would hear and I think feel it. If it was making contact with for fork you would know something was wrong. As for it just pulling right, you still might have issues with either air in the line, brake pads need to be cleaned and or "bedded". If the calibers are clean, floating and moving freely on the pins and the puck is free to move in or out, should not be a brake issue. Unless your triple clamp is bent or the bars are bent making it feel like it is pulling to the right, I am at a loss as well.

 

Yep, and I have checked for rubbing in the past by pulling the caliper away from it so the wheel/rotor can turn freely in the guide. That was a wild ride (j/k)

I haven't had a chance to give it a long ride with the new front tire. This weekend should give me a chance to check it out

 

If all is running free and true on the brakes, it could have been a bad front tire. Cupping is dry rot is the most common with tires but every once in a while you can brake the belts in the tires.

 

Are the headstock bearings original?
Have they been greased?

 

Headstock bearings were replaced around 2014. Originals were giving me front wobble, had a flat spot dead center.

I have had a new tire since then, and now a replacement for that one.

 

Cool beans. That's one less thing on the list.

 

Definitely. Feel like I have the front end pretty well refurbed at this point.

If the new tire and the careful tightening last weekend doesn't eliminate it I'll give the forks another alignment check

 

I wonder if it might be a machining issue dirung production since you say it's been an issue for some time. Maybe either the mounting bosses are a bit too thick (shifting the caliper to the left), or the caliper mounts are (also shifting the caliper to the left).
Has the caliper sat that way the whole time you've had the bike?

 

Interesting thought. I did overhaul the caliper in 2014. Since the piston locked up, I gave it a full treatment, cleaned, polished, and replaced seals. Its been very smoothly floating since then.

 

You mentioned you replaced wheel bearings. One bearing does not sit all the way down in the hub which means depending on which bearing you drove in first, the wheel would be slightly shifted in that direction. The second bearing is then driven in until the center race touches the inner spacer. I'll have to go look and see if the FSM states if one side should be installed first but if you installed the left bearing first the wheel would sit slightly to the left and because the rotor mounts to the wheel, it would move too.

I've never measured the center spacer and the hub dimensions, but I do have a front wheel without bearings at the moment. I'll try to do that later and see how much side to side movement would be expected.

 

Crappy MS paint picture with AllBalls drawing, but you can see the space with a green line drawn to it. Imagine moving the hub to the right in the picture so the installation space was on the left bearing, this would close the gap between the rotor and the right fork.

I'd say if it's not rubbing then go ride it. Little details do bug me though and I'll look into the manual later. Not sure it's an issue.

 

The wheel bearing offset is more likely.

 

brakes can't make a bike pull one way or the other, car yes, bike no
the crown in the road can make it pull, try riding in the wrong lane and see how it pulls. don't worry, those trucks will move over for you

 

Jay, that's a new twist. I might look into the bearing placement when I get a chance. I remember doing it, but not details, probably have photos I took of the process. But I did follow Schmuckaholic's guide, even printed it from xj4ever: http://www.xj4ever.com/wheel bearing replacement.pdf

His description is to put the right bearing in first, so if I followed instructions perfectly (no guarantee), then my bearings would be set right, unless I pounded the left in enough that it closed up the gap by pushing the spacer and right bearing back over a bit.

Also, Polock... who says I don't ride in the wrong lane?

 

Update finally:
After getting the new tire on and wheel remounted, I checked the fork tubes one more time. There was no binding. Then I tried a method I saw from another member to keep the axle slightly loose then spend the tire fast and lock the front brake. Did that a couple times. Tightened everything to spec.

Not sure what of these helped, or maybe all of them, but now she tracks very straight, and only pulls slightly to the right after my hands are off for some time, which would be normal for the crown in the road.

This is the level of comfort I was looking for, so thanks to everyone for lots of help!