Frozen Clutch?

Hi guys.. I think I did a no no..

Last year I winterized the gas in my bike, but didn't do an oil change. Recently been getting ready to get the bike out, while throwing my new registration in the bike I grabbed a handful of clutch to get a feel and it was hard as a rock.. Squeezed it good and got it to move, It went in and now won't come back.
I know a bit of gas got down in the oil at the end of the year, but didn't get to change the oil at that time. Its about 20 degrees out tonight. Is it possible the cold has the viscosity of the oil up and that's the problem? Or is it something more serious due to the fact the gas is in the oil?

Think a good oil change and some nice weather will free the plates up? Got me all on edge now. :x

 

I've run into "frozen" clutches pretty often with the old triples. Typically, if you can start the bike and bump it into gear once you are pointed in a safe direction, they will free up on their own. In extreme cases moisture has gotten between the metal and fiber plates and feels almost as if they are welded together, which in a way, they are...there are two fixes. First is to remove the clutch cover and very CAREFULLY with a long, flat straight screwdriver, pry each plate apart....yes, it takes a while because you have to pry the first metal from fiber then on the backside the next metal plate, then the back of that is the next fiber....and so on....

Sometimes it's just easier to remove the entire clutch basket assembly and remove each plate. That's really the better way since you can mic each plate to be sure they are all within spec. Don't forget to lay each plate on a handy sheet of glass to check for warp...a bent plate has to be repaired or replaced.

jeff

 

Sounds like the clutch cable is stuck. Check the simple things first. Cable, linkage or handle lever is my first suspect

 

It might well be the cable, although it is only a season old. Would the throw arm that goes down in to the clutch come back to it's resting place, even if the clutch is frozen?

Once I squeezed, everything stopped, even moving the lever on the bars forward would not get the cable to go in at all. which sounds like a stuck cable. but even with a bit of force on the throw arm I can't get it to go back to it's resting place, which makes me feel like the clutch is frozen.

Man, do I hate winter.. If I could drive it year round, I wouldn't have to deal with this crap. (Just other problems, I'm sure.)

 

Something's not right. I'm still thinking cable, but if not,

Details on the 550's clutch can be found here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

You might want to pop the cover and have a peek.

 

I've run into them so often that to be honest, the cable didn't occur to me when I read the post however the cable can compress the clutch thereby freeing the plates but only the springs can return the clutch to it's normally "plates locked" position. I do not know what your clutch actuator looks like, having never seen one on your bike but I'm assuming that it's a throw lever attached to a rod with a rack gear actuating the clutch as I remember Yammy doing it and cable to control the release. If I'm right, and your pivoting lever isn't returning, something is stuck between that rod and the pressure plate. A bad spacer or chipped gear could be binding. I always hope for the best though so maybe you'll get lucky!!

jeff

 

Dumb question - If i pull the cover off the clutch, am I going to have to replace the seal?

 

Cover gasket? In all probability, YES. It's a paper gasket and you will almost certainly destroy it upon removal.

Take a look in my article that I posted the link to.

 

Thanks fitz.. I did read through your write up, very well done. Will more than likely be doing this sometime soon, at any rate. Saw that you used the high-tack spray on the gasket, Just didn't see a new gasket listed in your parts anywhere. Was hoppin not to have to wait on a part.. Chacal sells the gasket, I assume?

 

Yes, he does. I guess I should have listed the gasket with the suggested parts, I'll correct it when I have a sec.

 

Okay! Thanks in advance guys! Got some good news bad news..

A bit of an update: Went out today to take the battery out to throw on the charger for a bit and took the clutch cable off. Like butter the throw arm went back, so the culprit of the problem is the clutch cable! Much more of an easy fix then tearing the clutch apart!! (Knock on wood nothing inside is wrong)

Still planning to tear the clutch apart some time this season, but hopefully nice to know that it's rideable. with any luck oil change in the morning and freeing up the clutch cable!

I can sleep easy for atleast tonight.

 

And, before you go replacing the cable, get/borrow a cable lubricating tool, and try lubing the daylight out of it. I may only need that. Sometimes they fill in a bit with dirt/dust/grime and a good cable-lubing will solve the problem.

If you aren't sure what the tool is that I'm talking about, its about 1/2" by 1" by 2" or so, you hook the cable in the top of it ,the housing catches farther down. There's a a screw that closes the unit around the cable. Then you take your PB, WD, Cable-Loob, or whatever your favorite flavor is, and fit the tiny spray hose into the tiny hole on the side of the tool. Fill it up good which forces lube into the housing. pull the cable back and forth til it's good and loose.

If you're still not sure what one is, I'll try to take a pic.

Let us know what happens........

Dave

 

I'd order a New Clutch Cable and install it.

If the Old Cable was so dry and rusty that it was seized, ... it's likely the Cable has a few wires that are ready to rust-through and unwind.

That, will disable you ... if they unwind and bind.

Go for the New Cable.
Run some Liquid Silicone through the new one.
You'll have a silky smooth Clutch.

 

Dave - You'll have to show me a picture about what you're talking about..

Rick - The cable literally has less than 100 miles on it. I replaced it last year after I rebuilt my carbs. Would a cable go that fast??? I was hopping i would only need to lube the hell out of it.

 

I'll take a pic tomorrow for ya.

dave fox

 

Aren't all newer cable Teflon lined ?? Therefore, using such lubes would break down the lining and actually shorten the cables life span??

.. Just a thought, correct me if i'm wrong.

 

If the cable is that frozen up i would almost just replace it for peace of mind. Even tho its fairly new doesn't necessarily mean it was woven right from the factory or somehow the case kinked a bit in a bend and you can't see it under the plastic casing or possibly got routed a bit different.

 

It sounds to me like it was mis-routed, got too close to the exhaust pipes and melted the inner sheath.

Installing it "dry" didn't help. Even if lubing it seems to fix it, I would NOT trust it long-term; I'd get a replacement on order right away.

Yes, the cable is a multi-layered piece with a nylon (or like material) liner, but it does need to be lubricated.

You can go old-school and use motor oil and a makeshift paper "mini-funnel" but that's REALLY OLD school.

I've used one of these for the last, oh, 30 years or so:




My personal preference for a lubricant is Tri-Flow, (which contains Teflon) http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Fl ... icant.html

Another good choice is PJ1's cable lube: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/ ... -Lube.aspx

And then you need to KEEP the cable lubricated; I do all of mine every spring as part of start-up maintenance.

If you send me a PM with your email address I can email you a scan of the cable routing diagrams for your bike from the factory manual.

 

Cable's shot, got it off the bike today after my oil change and I pulled the cable all the way to one way and I could start to see all the rust. That cable was straight from the Yamaha dealer too! Looks like i'm buying a new cable along with the gasket..

Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it as always!

 

The picture of the tool is what I use, so there ya go.( except mine is blue)

If the cable is all rusty with so few mi on it, and it was new from the yammy dealer:

1. did you ride 100 mi in the rain and leave it outside afterwards?
2. did you buy a used cable from the yammy dealer?
3. did you leave it outside uncovered all winter?

If the answer is no to all of the above, I HOPE that you still have your receipt, can prove that you've not ridden in rain, stored it inside dry, and are willing to fight with a dealer for selling a damaged item. Maybe they'll be willing to exchange it simply because it was on the shelf so long, and they didn't realize that it had sustained damage not known at the time of the sale.

dave

 

Thats what i figured been doing this way to many years . If a cable is that frozen up after sitting a few months it means trouble good luck