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Fuel tank sealant REMOVAL

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by theadbrewer, Apr 29, 2013.

  1. theadbrewer

    theadbrewer Member

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    So about four years ago i thought it would be a good idea to put a sealant in my tank due to so rust issues. Now I have sealant issues. The S%$t is plugging up my fuel filter and fuel valve. Anybody have any ideas on removing this CR@P!!
     
  2. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you used Kreem.

    To remove it use Muractic acid (pool, and concrete cleaner). You will need to let is soak for a day or so to work completely.

    Then use a good tank sealer, like POR15, or Caswells Redcote (aka dragons blood).

    Edit: Do not let the acid anywhere near your fuel sender, Get the blockoff plate from Chacal.

    Ghost
     
  3. theadbrewer

    theadbrewer Member

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    Hey thanks it was Kreem. The fuel sender is null and void already the float is drifting around in the tank but it is long out of use.
     
  4. Fuller56

    Fuller56 Well-Known Member

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    I have used both POR15 and Caswell's epoxy tank sealers. The Caswells was not the red stuff, haven't used that. The Caswells I used on 2 tanks, one was long time dry and the other not so much. The dry one it has lasted for about 8 or 9 years with no issues. The not so much one it started peeling off in sheets and was bugger to get out. I am sure it was my poor preparation that caused the problem.
    The POR15 stuff I was careful to do a much better prep on. It has been is use in 3 different tanks with no issues. What sold me on it is that it is what the guys at the Barber Museum in Alabama use. I can't think of a better recommendation than that. Those guys forgot more about motorcycles and repair/restoring them yesterday than I will EVER know.
    John
     
  5. MercuryMan

    MercuryMan Active Member

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    I've used por-15 also. It's crazy how it works. Moisture in the atmosphere (not in your tank) will make it cure faster (opposite of almost all other paints/sealants etc.) and the moisture actually causes the por-15 to condense into a totally non-porous surface on the metal. Must be prepped properly though as it won't stick to varnish, gum, old gas, etc. And you must etch the metal with phosphoric acid then seal.

    They make a kit which includes a can of stripper to remove the kreem, and everything else you would need for the job. Or you could just order their stripper and sealant, and use your own locally sourced products to clean and etch (Home Depot, Lowe's etc all carry those products). The por-15 stripper isn't acid so you don't have to worry about it eating your tanks metal.

    One last thing, when you get your por-15 be ready to use it, don't shake it, don't let get too cold or too hot and stir it well with a drill before use. I used an old paddle bit on an electric drill.
     
  6. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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  7. Madmusk

    Madmusk Member

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    Muriatic acid is pretty nasty stuff. Never heard of using it to dissolve epoxy based products.

    Start with a gallon of acetone and see how it works. I recently had a hell of a time removing a peeling tank liner in my tank and acetone ended up working the best for my particular liner. It took 3-4 days of periodically rotating and shaking with some steel nuts inside, but it did the job.

    Do yourself a favor and get a rubber stopper from the Lowe's hardware section to plug up the gas cap hole. I used duct tape for the petcock opening but I'm sure there's a more elegant way to stop that up as well.
     

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