Gaaah! Foiled by the dread Yamaha Fuse block... (Grrr.)

So, I've been working on my bike ('82 Max 750, for the record), which I've now owned for over a year and have yet to ride...

Had the day off today, and everything was going great. Finishing up all the little jobs that needed to be done; got the carbs (which had been sitting, spotless, on my workbench for the last 6 months) back on (and those boots turned out to be not nearly as difficult as I'd been afraid of). Finished up the brakes last Sunday, so that was good. Battery's charged (just came off the tender). Change the oil (again; I put in cheap new oil last year to flush out the old junk, and put in decent oil and a new filter this time). Drain and replace the final drive oil (Lucas 80W90, because I can't seem to find a straight 80-weight gear oil anywhere) Adjust the clutch; it was so out of whack that the first half of the lever's travel was freeplay. Few turns on the adjusting nut; Ah, much better.

There's still a bunch more I have to do before I can actually ride the thing reliably. Tires, fork seals, modern fuse block, tapered steering bearings, who knows what else? All in good time. The purpose of today's exercise is to get it into a condition where I can try starting it. Then I can begin the process of sync/colortune/check plugs/rinse/repeat...

So I hook up the tank (On a stand, not on the bike yet). Turn the key on? (Wait: fire extinguisher nearby? You never know... OK, good.) OK, hit it!

...Hmm. Nothing? That's odd... it started fine before I took the carbs off. Well, OK, I tell a lie; it started like crap. But it started. Now I'm not even getting indicators on the dash. I know it's in neutral, 'cause it rolls with the clutch out, so at least I should have one indicator lit... Hmm.

OK, get the multimeter out. Battery reads 12.6-odd volts, so it's not dead... Continuity across the fuses? Well, let's pop that bad boy open...

At this juncture, I should like to point out that I know full well that the original fusebox is a problem on these bikes. It is (as I mentioned earlier) one of the projects that I plan to do in the very near future. I'm hoping that the OEM unit will hold out long enough for me to try starting the bike, so that I can see how well I've done on the carb job and other various projects relating to making the motor run.

...Where was I? Ah, yes, the fuse block. Well, there seems to be continuity across all of the fuses, and even across the terminals, so there's a connection there at least. Maybe the connection isn't good enough though. Maybe clean the terminals a bit? Looks like this one is... Wait, what was that click? Hmm, if I touch the "signals" fuse, the dash lights up like a Christmas tree (well, relatively speaking). Maybe I'm on to something... Let's just power down and pop that sucker out and...

Aw, crap. I know that terminal wasn't snapped off a second ago. Damn, damn, damn. And I- Hey, that headlight fuse is hot! I mean, like, really hot! What the- hey, all the plastic around that terminal is melted! Which means it was like that before, because there's no way I've had it powered up long enough to melt like that today...

Ah, well, looks like the new fuse block just got bumped way the heck up the priority list...

Oh, chacal...? :wink:

 

You rang?


FUSEBOXES, FUSEHOLDERS, AND FUSES:


COMMENTS: your stock fusebox was marginal, at best, and that was 20+ years ago. Replacing it with a modern style fuse panel or in-line fuse holders such as the styles listed below will prevent frustrating, expensive, and potentially dangerous electrical system problems for years to come.

The following models used a fusebox utilizing four "glass tube" AGC fuses with one 20A main fuse, and three 10A fuses for the ignition, turn signal, and headlight circuits: all XJ550 models, all XJ650 models, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim models, and the main fusebox on XJ1100 models.

These models used a fusebox utilizing four "glass tube" AGC fuses that contained one 30A main fuse, and three 10A fuses for the ignition, turn signal, and headlight circuits: 1982 XJ750 Maxim model, all XJ750 Seca models, and the XJ900RK.

In addition, the following models used a separate single "glass tube" 5A AGC fuse, within its own small in-line holder, for the computerized gauge cluster: all XJ650 Turbo models, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and all XJ750 Seca models.

XJ700 models used two separate fuse panels: one that contained the four seondary circuits, including two 10A fuses, and two 15A fuses, which is located within the instrument warning lights panel; and the 30A main circuit fuse panel was located under the seat. These bikes used the later push-in style ATC fuses in the dash fuse panel from the factory; the 30A main circuit fuses were still the older "glass tube" AGC style fuses.

XJ1100 models also used two separate fuse panels: one that contained the four seondary circuits, including one 20A fuse, and three 10A fuses, and which is located behind the right side panel; the 30A main circuit fuse panel was located under the seat.

FITMENT: the stock Yamaha fusebox is very flat...less than an inch tall. These aftermarket fuseblocks are quite a bit taller, and therefore may present some challenges and the need for some creative engineering to place them properly. We offer the following tips:

XJ550 models (all): the stock fusebox lays on top of the "tool kit caddy", and the forward "arms" of this caddy hold both the TCI (on the right side) and the fusebox (on the left side). These aftermarket fuseboxes will not fit in the same place as the stock fusebox, as the increased height will cause interference with the bottom of the seat pan. The best fit can be obtained by carefully cutting away a portion of the left tool caddy "arm", so that the replacement fusebox can be attached to the top of the air filter housing. Careful positioning of the fusebox will allow you to remove a minimal amount of the tool caddy arm material, thus retaining the structural strength of that arm. The replacement fusebox should them be retaining to the top of the air filter box via two self-tapping screws, or proper sized bolts and nuts.

XJ650 all models (except Turbo) and all XJ750 models: the stock fusebox lays on top of the air cleaner box lid. The replacement fuseblock can go in the same area, but some care must be taken as to positioning to make sure that the bottom of the seat pan does not contact the top of clear cover of the fuseblock. You will have to slightly reposition the fuseblock from the original moutning holes to get everything to line up properly.

XJ650 Turbo models: not yet verified.

XJ700 models: these bikes already use the push-in type fuses in a fusepanel located under the dash warning lights by the gauge cluster. Therefore these replacement 6-circuit fuseboxes are not needed on these bikes. However, the main 30-amp glass fuses and holder could benefit from the addition of the ATC in-line fuse holders.

XJ900 models: not yet verified.

XJ1100 models: not yet verified.






q) Replacement FUSEBOX, enclosed, weatherproof 6-circuit ATC (mini push-in blade style) fusebox....the style that everyone recommends using. Includes 6 ATC standard fuses, 2 x 20A or 2 x 30A (depending on your model), and 4 x 10A. Two more circuits than a stock fusebox allows you to add extra circuits for heated grips, cigarette lighter, headlight relays, etc. Size: 4" long x 1-1/8" wide (not including spade terminals) x 1-1/2" tall (including the clear, see-through cover). Note that this is a "side-terminal" design...the male wire terminal spades point outwards (away) from the sides of the fusebox.


HCP378BC Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit design, comes with a full set of standard style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 20A), for all XJ550, all XJ650, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.
$ 13.00

HCP378LF Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit with a full set of glow-when-blown indicator style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 20A), XJ550, all XJ650, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.
$ 16.00


HCP7153BC Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit design, comes with a full set of standard style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 30A), for all XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and XJ900RK models.
$ 13.00

HCP7153LF Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit with a full set of glow-when-blown indicator style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 30A), for all XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and XJ900RK models.
$ 16.00


nnn) Circuit ID Decal for the above 6-circuit HCP378BC fusebox. Printed on a clear adhesive backed long-life decal material, this decal specifies (in white print) the circuit "name" (MAIN, HEAD, TURN, IGN.), the fuse amp rating of each circuit, and the wire lead color code (RED, R/Y, BRN, R/W) so you can have the same circuit ID info on your replacement fusebox as on your original. Applies to the outside of the HCP378BC clear fusebox cover. The two empty circuit positions are titled "SPARE".

HCP393 Replacement HCP378xx fusebox 6-circuit I.D. Decal, with 20A main fuse labelling, for all XJ550, all XJ650, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.
$ 4.00

HCP7152 Replacement HCP7153xx fusebox 6-circuit I.D. Decal, with 30A main fuse labeling, for all XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and XJ900RK models.
$ 4.00


u7) Bottom Gasket for the above HCP378xx or HCP7153xx series 6-circuit fuseboxes. The fusebox has an "open" bottom, which would allow moisture and, eventually, corrosion to get into this otherwise sealed fuseblock. This die cut 1/16" rubber gasket has pre-punched mounting holes.

HCP382 Replacement 6-circuit fusebox Bottom Gasket:
$ 3.50

 

LOL - This was one of the more enjoyable posts to read.

I to had a very similar experience with my second XJ i bought. The fuse box was melted and the second I touched one end clip from a fuse with no pressure it was suddenly in my hand. It's amazing that bike ran at all. My first purchase from chacal was the fuse kit, best change I ever made.

 

i love this site! keep the upgrade ideas coming.I cleaned my fuse block terminals with steel wool and used dielectric grease on the fuse ends and haven't had a problem with my electrical system. knock on wood. my next project will be to upgrade to blades.

 

Radio Shack has a fuse holder that uses contacts that are VERY SIMILAR and will snap into the original fuse box (if it's not melted.) I too experienced spontaneous fuse clip breakage, a driving desire to get running again on a Sunday afternoon led me to Radio Shack. An upgrade is planned.

 

When a clip broke on mine (XJ650G) I went to AutoZone and bought 4 INLINE ATM fuse holders. 5 minutes, all replaced. Just need to label them now. They tuck into the original fuse box area quite nicely and would fit better if I had trimmed off some of the wire that came with them.