Game Over. I'm done.

Pilot screws / pilot circuit. Not working.

Had carb cleaner flowing out all orifices, use Rick's trick with the ear cleaner bulb to force stuff out, saw a blow pop out of one, the rest came clean with a few seconds of pressure. Came out slow, eventually blasting out full force.

Wow, fuel coming out WAY faster. Tried it with the screws in place @ 3 turns out. Fuel flying out of the port. Awesome.

Bench sync, back together, tightened down.

Fuel on.

Fired up. Won't start.

No choke 1/2 way. Comes on.

Running bad as I back off choke. I am @ 3 turns out.

Keep the revs high, hit the road for about a mile. Running decent off idle.

GO to turn around - dies instantly. Needs 1/2 choke to get back going.

Come back, dies coming into driveway, trying to rev it up but won't go.

How in the !#%# can it be WORSE than before. I didn't change a thing besides the screws.

I cleaned it out.

I didn't DIRTY it, I didn't change anything.





I am so sick to my stomach. Screw it. I'm selling it and getting a god damn electric scooter.








There comes a point where chasing the same thing over and over for 2 months straight, EVERY SINGLE DAY you have off work, that it needs to STOP.

Hell, I even 'helped' the auto adjusting cam chain tensioner and it seemed to quiet it down.

I've gone through too much with this thing, it's done. I can't afford to have anyone ELSE fix it, go through the carbs, tune it, etc. It's dead to me.

 

I hear you loud and clear. I did my carbs, new starter, front break rebuild, new plugs and plug boots. It started right up and I adjusted the carbs a bit so it ran nice, shut it off and it fired right up. Sit for 2 days and the stupid thing would not start at all. Bought another bike [82 GS650] and brought it home today. Looked at that stupid bike walked over to it and it fired right up, shut it off and it fired up again. Was it pissed that I bought a Suzuki? I have it up for sale and hope it goes before I start working on it again.

 

dpawl, after all the time you have spent on this site & the thousands of words you have written on so many topics, I find it incredible that you are still clueless.

 

Could it be that now everything is cleaned out inside you're getting too much of what you weren't getting before? That is to say your carbs are set to compensate for a plugged condition and now you need to reset them for a cleaned condition.

 

Larry, Gamaru, thanks.

Wiz, please don't say anything if it ain't worth crap.

I had to set them BACK to 6 turns out.

It's idling and running OK...

Still don't know what's going on.

No air leaks, valves shimmed properly, new EVERYTHING in carbs.

Sync'd it takes 6 turns out to even get consistent firing on all 4.
3 Turns in it BARELY burns, and not enough to stay running.

I don't know where to go from here aside from another sync and then just ride it and see what happens...

 

[Wiz, please don't say anything if it ain't worth crap.

Assume the braced possition & insert P/N 90890-04068

 

Your intelligence astounds me.

Just so everyone knows, don't call wiz out in public or you'll get nasty pm's about how angry he is.

Baby.


Anyway... the earwax bulb trick worked to pressurize the hell out of my passages, but the carb cleaner ate the bulb. would gas eat the plastic bulb? maybe I need to make a rubber tip for the carb cleaner tube...

 

Ok you probably have already checked all of this but here we go. Have you tried changing the spark plug gap to make the plugs a little hotter. Or just going to a hotter plug? What plugs are you running? Also if you have to use a hotter plugs have you checked the coils? There's a little something to get your mind off of carbs for a day

 

If you're really fed up with the carbs but still like the bike, there's always the FI conversion possibility. Let me know if you decide to take the plunge....

Cheers,
Paul

 

THIS sounds like a plan. Sync it; set the mixture screws where they need to be for this bike to run, and ride it.

Monitor engine condition. The ultimate solution will eventually reveal itself.

 

Far be it for me to advise a redliner, but I pulled the idle jets and scrubbed them out with some wire bristles. Found allot of crud in there. The bike idles fine and normal now. Chem Dip does not scrub out the little stuff.
I was thinking if I need to, I could try disassembling the carb, and dropping the bodies off at a dealer repair shop for ultrasound cleaning. That might not be too expensive. Honestly, Suzuki carbs are not so finniky as Yamaha's.

 

Doug I don't know if this has been asked before but have you verified you have the correct fuel and air jets and they are in the right places? Maybe a PO has added a fun factor in here.

 

Got to agree with Fitz. If it wants six turns then give it 6 turns. Sync em and ride it like you stole it. Mine runs at 4+ turns and I could care less. It runs great and I can ride. I never read anywhere that it said you have to be with in a certain number. Yes you may be compensating for something else but if it runs good I figure thats why those slant eyed guys gave us all that adjustment room. Enjoy your bike!!!!

 

Maybe some of you guys forgot but he could have a different set of carbs on his bike. I mean some of the older carbs had fine thread mixture screws vs the newer ones having the corse thread screws. If by chance Dpawl has the fine thread version it would stand to reason his mixture screws would need to be more turns out than most others to get the same metering effect. I'm thinking thats whats going on here.

Fitz is right. If thats where the bike tunes up at leave it and don't worry how far out the screws are because if it works right at that setting.



MN

 

Actually I agree with the tune it and go - don't worry about # of turns. I have no idea how many turns mine runs on.

But if I recall the original issue is that he can not seem to get any adjustment on a colortune no matter how much more he turns the screws. That would concern me too.

 

I see you have another 650.

Clean THOSE carbs and see what happens. . . . :wink:

 

Oh please no. That could be a whole new chapter; don't plant any ideas...

 

not that it doesn't react to the colortune, but its a barely visible blue flame at 3 turns. have to get out to 5 or 6 before it is blue AND fires everytime it sparks.

it reacts to the screws... just not the way its supposed to.

screws almost out to get yellow.

it is fine thread, but fine thread settings are 2.5 to 3 right?

even with screws that far out, I can't get color on my plugs.

so, how's the bike gonna react / throw me off when I get the inevitable hole in the piston...

 

doug, sync, tune, ride. in that order. f*ck the number of turns out it is, it'll work.

 

Indeed. I have an XS400 that runs great at 5.5 turns out. My theory is the ethanol they put into gasoline these days means you need more fuel at idle. Altitude also comes into play. If it takes 6 turns, run it at 6 turns.

That said, you *might* have a vacuum leak. That's a problem I ran into when an infinite number of turns wouldn't get it to go rich. New carb holders solved that problem.

 

also, i really doubt you'll get a hole in the piston.

 

My Buddy and I had an 83 shadow 500 parts engine, with a welded hole in the piston... not a pretty sight.