Good/Fast/Cheap Fuse Box Upgrade

Used 4 Posi-Lock fuse holders; no crimping, no soldering. They were $3 a piece and appear to be very well made items. I read about them (and bought them) here.

 

Brilliant! Im ordering some stat. Thanks for the heads up!

 

Count me in. Never wanted to have to shave parts of my seat to make room for a new, taller box anyway.

 

Nice solution, thanks for the tip. I'm gonna do the same.

 

I don't trust stuff like that. I solder everything.

Dan, why would you need to shave the seat? I didn't have to do anything at all on the 750 and I had to modify the tray that holds the fusebox on the 550, but I did not touch ether seat.

 

Stuff like what? These are a better mouse trap; look into them and you may change your mind. And although you may solder everything, many don't, and with these you don't need to.

 

Hey JP, When I looked into it, I read Chacal's description "some care must be taken as to positioning to make sure that the bottom of the seat pan does not contact the top of clear cover of the fuseblock"

And read some post where someone did it and said they cut a little of the underside of the seat out to make it fit.

It's not been high on my list of replacements so that's as much research as I did. Good to know you did it without shaving plastic. I'd rather not have to.

Also my dad was a career electrician and working summers with him kept me in gas money as a teen. Even in the early 80s there were plenty of reliable crimp products we used. And I saw lots of really shoddy solder work that we had to redo.

 

Well, I'm not exactly objective... The main wire to the alternator on my wife's van popped out of it's crimp just yesterday.

 

didn't have to cut anything on the 81 seca or the 82 max when I did mine. Just play around test fitting the seat to make sure your in the right spot.

 

Crimp, Solder & heat shrink. Takes longer but its not going anywhere.

 

I can't tell from their website, but does the Posi-Lock grip the insulation too?

One of the benefits of your stock, F-type open barrel crimp connectors is that it crimps the wire for an electrical connection, and the insulation for a mechanical connection. Cyclic loading on a strand of copper wire can actually fatigue and break it, which is why you want the insulation to soak up any mechanical stresses.

This is also the point of heat shrink (in addition to insulation) of a solder connection.

I personally love F-type open terminal crimping ever since I learned how to do it right. Although I will admit that it takes a larger initial investment.

 

Maverick, was this Chacal's or from an AP store?

Manbot, good question - we should hear from RickB soon I hope.

Watching the video on the other connectors, I could tell it's only a bare wire connection that locks together, so not really watertight or for longevity like you mentioned.

 

Well considering that none of the connectors are weather-proofed from the factory means that these aren't any worse in the corrosion-department. However dielectric grease would likely go a long way. And the company does make weather-proofed connectors.

I've also mounted the fuse box from chacal without seat modifications, although I had to modify the holder on my Turbo seca (although I could have bolted it to the air box) and had to drill a new hole in the air filter cover of my 750 seca.

 

I used Chacal's 6 slot boxes on both of mine. Did a radian with one from a AP store (same thing as Chacal's) again with no modification to the seat.

 

Thanks both, for info about your boxes!

 

Good question. Based on the installation instructions and the design of the locks themselves, believe they do in fact grip the insulation as well.

 

i've used those connectors before their kind of big and klunky but they work well and their easy to use. i have them on my battery tender so the cord is nice and long

 

Installed New 6 circuit fuse box (Len) w/o any modifications to seat pan.

Gary