Have power, but wont start or turn over.. NEED HELP! 81 Maxim 550

So, i am doing a bobber/ chopper build... I had a running, functioning bike before i started the build... But now, as I re-assemble... I just got to the point to see if my motor will turn over, and if I still have a functioning motor... Well, I dont. I am getting power, my indicator lights come on, my horn will honk, but I cant get it to even turn the starter.. the only thing that I can think of is my rectifier.. because my red wire to it fried.. I don't know why, but it did, but it ran with it like that since I had it without a problem before I started this.. so I don't think that's it. Could be wrong.

Im completely lost..
What should I test, or try?
Thanks for the help guys.
-Matt

 

Battery

 

Battery.
The burn-through is probably just from a loose or corroded connection getting the terminals hot and melting the plastic.
R/R has nothing to do with the starter circuit.

 

Your saying my battery is bad? It's only a year old, holds a charge, and I kept it charged the time I had it stored. I can check the voltage tomorrow and let y'all know what it's at. Another thing, the previous owner has all fuses but the main one hard wired.. and I don't know why. But that could have been because the rectifier thing. Oh, what is the wire that goes to the little plastic box type thing with a wire out of it in my chain drive area? Also what is the little aluminum canister with wires under the tank for?

 

canister should be the starter relay. under gas tank
plastic box is the TCI unit that controls the spark.under seat near fuses
the wire is a set of wires( color gray orange and black) in black insulation tubing that come from the pick up coils to tci does it have a 6 position connector and a sky blue wire with a bullet connector in it? that runs from the neutral switch under the shifter cover into the black insulation tubing
the other wires that come from down there are for the side stand switch and connect to a connector up near the side stand relay

pick up coils are under the left side crank shaft cover

 

So what you're telling us is that you need a service manual.

 

chacal sells new connector housings you may want one for that connector

 

all ready gave him a factory service manual

 

this is the starting circuit in white from fsm


this link may come in handy
How to Use a Multimeter and Read Schematics and Wiring Diagrams.

did you test the solenoid yet?

 

I will have to look at the manual. I have been trying to figure this out, but I am inexperienced when it comes to motorcycle wiring. I'm used to much simpler wiring on my vintage snowmobiles. I am only 18 and do this all on my own as well.. so I need some good mentors! Haha! I really do appreciate any help! I need to get this bike done because I have a lot of riding planned before I leave for the military.

Thanks all,
-Lipski

 

Not the issue but you should correct this ASAP. The main fuse is 20 amps, the others are 10 amps. Running the bike as is will risk damage to the main harness and worst case the need for a fire extinguisher. Installing a blade fuse upgrade is a fairly simple process.

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-an-aftermarket-fuse-box.6350/

If the bike worked before then odds are either something is not hooked up or hooked up incorrectly (if the battery checks out). The safety circuits will disable the starter and the ignition if not working correctly. Here is a link on checking the starter circuit, it is for a 650 but very similar:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-test-your-starter-circuit.7828/

Not sure of the extent of your teardown, but verify hookups, particularly if the relays were removed. Several of the relays are color coded with blue and yellow markings. There should be a corresponding vinyl tape of the correct color on the main harness to identify the relay location. Also in great detail Len's post identifies wire colors and markings for the electrical system as well as physical locations:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/

 

with bike in neutral there are 2 relays that should click when you turn on key
under tank with yellow tab
under seat
disconnect solinoid connectors

with meter you shoud get 3.9 ohms across solenoid connector

on the other connector to harness with key on set to volts r/w wire 12volts to ground B/W wire 11 volts to ground
with key off set meter to ohms and test B/W wire to ground when you press starter button 0 to 1 ohm typical

this connector is what connects run switch and starter button to harness
it can be a source of problems clean and grease with dielectric grease reconnect.



Before you reconnect the solenoid connectors clean and grease. you should clean and grease any connector you disconnect. use electric spray cleaner and dielectric grease
if any or none of these things is happening let us know

 

Just tried the two solenoids. Both clicked in like they should. I also did a quick test to see if my started solenoid is bad. I took a screwdriver across them, and yup, she fired off. So I am gonna have to pick up a new one.

 

make sure you still test the wires first could just be a connection problem, you could use a test light to check wires about 5$

hook tester to ground to test voltage points light should light ant place voltage is expected.
for ground test for button, hook light to + on battery connect to B/W wire in connector press button light should light up

 

I will have to try that out tomorrow.

 

Got it all figured out!! I must have had the wires backwards. I did test for that, but had my friend hit the starter button, and I don't know why it didn't work then.. but I tried it again today, and it fired off. Now I have to pick up some tank sealer, paint and pinstripe my rims, modify an airbox to fit, then slap it all together!

Thanks for all the help guys!
- Lipski