HAVING ISSUES WITH LONG TERM IDLE

I have had this issue for the entire time I have had the bike. I live 2 miles from my job so this was never an issue but I wanna see what you guys have to say. The bike starts with a little bit of a weak idle I have to start it with the choke 75% engaged even in the summer. If I let it warm up wit the choke at like 50% reving/ idleing at like 2500 for a minute or 2 the idle ends up being perfect. get on it and ride to work no probs. The trouble kicks in a few more miles down the road, first stop sighn after 6 miles and it seems like it wold be ready to blow. The idle goes out of control literely up to like 4 grand, roll it into gear and it gets a little better but as soon as you neutch it or clutch rpms sky rocket. My guess was always that the carbs were clear but needed a better sync. Let it sit for 15 mins and start again and you wouldnt now it was like that, same when I ride it to work everday all summer no probs. One unrelated issue I thought might contribute is that I changed the oil but the filter housing bolt was tot round so I bet that last filter I put in there is a ball of sludge, maybe without the oil being able to flow from cooler/filter to engine it is over heating. It def. seems to run very very hot! What you think boys? :?:

 

Hanging idle generally indicates an out-of-sync condition; and to properly sync the carbs you'll need to double-check your float levels and be sure the valves are in spec.

Then when you do your running vacuum sync, the bike should be fully warmed up, as in 20-minute ride warmed up.

 

Thanks a ton Fitz, I am still on the single bowl level in my carb tuning career. Needless to say maybe I should bring it to some pros. I just dont wanna get banged for a crazy price lol for example Why pay 500 for the sync when for 600 I could get this
worcester.craigslist.org/mcy/4358935120.html

What you think? thats why I am on here to ask you guys, on road is all new to me!

 

The first time I pulled my carbs I had that problem. It was because I had set my idle speed after letting the bike idle for a few minutes instead of after riding a bit and getting it up to temp and then setting it.

 

The bike on CL will likely take just as much work, if not more?

I wasn't suggesting you pay for a sync; I was suggesting you adjust your valves, wet-set your floats, and DO a running sync.

Paying to get everything done to a 30-year old bike that will need to be done to keep it on the road will get cost-prohibitive real quick.

You still running around on 30-year old brakes? Read this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

And this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=41400.html

 

Ya I have known about that brake situation awhile now, the last owner claimed new brakes all the way around but I still pulled them right away to make sure. I am sure that cl bike has its share of problems, but you never now until you are there. The way I ride my bike the only thing I would say is (unsafe) about that bike is the forks could def use a rebuild! Thanks for the tip crow. I might atempt to make some minor tweaks to the adjustments tonight.

 

"Tweaking" is probably just going to push you further out of sync.

"Misbehaving" once warmed up can also be attributable to valves in need of adjusting; and/or wonky float levels. Neither of those will be remedied by tweaking your carbs.

 

Thnx Fitz I will refer to my reapir manual and see what I can do thnx 4 the advice!

 

next time you start it up from cold, give it 30 seconds then lightly touch each pipe and see if there's a cold one. Then when it gets to be "the idle is perfect"
stage check them again, way down low(they'll be hot).
you can't tweak the sync without tools

 

Yes Fitz is definitely right about tweaking only being the way to get maximum performance when everything else is in spec and working right. I was offering where I had made a mistake and had to go back because I hadn't properly followed the steps for syncing my carbs. That's why I said the first time. Since I did things wrong I had to do the work all over again. The only thing I got right was the actual cleaning that time.

I spend a lot of time reading on here so that I can find and fix problems specific to these bikes. And bigfitzs, Pollock, hogfiddles, and rickomatic have the best guides and grip on everything related to these bikes from anyone else I have seen here.

There is a really good checklist and link to all the important guides stickied somewhere. I think is called new bike checklist. You have had yours for years but it wouldn't take very long to work through the whole list just to make sure everything is good and that you haven't missed any steps in your maiteanence.

 

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=4 ... oning.html

I had the title wrong

 

That thread is sweet thnx!!

 

Don't thank me I didn't do the work of putting it together. I just bookmarked it to use as a reference. Also Len has troubleshooting guides sprinkled through his catalog to help people diagnose failing parts correctly to keep them from wasting money. I have adapted several of his methods and added them to my BMW bible since they are better than what the service manuals advised. He has everything you could need parts wise if you decide you need to replace anything or have to do a full rebuild on your carbs he has complete kits for the entire rack at a good price.

 

What Fitz is trying to tell you, and I know this first hand my self, is that mechanics today do not know how to properly work on these bikes. You will waiste your money and end up having to do it yourself anyway, like I did.
Check valves then check floats then do the sync.
This will probably fix your issue.

 

Great news! I didnt relize I have the setup to float my carbs right at work! I guess I just assumed we didnt because my bike is so old. Good stuff going to give it a shot after I check my valves!