Headlight Upgrade

I recently upgraded my 1981 XJ650 headlight to the new Sylvania XtraVision which is supposed to be brighter. Whoa, I do not like the pattern. So I was thinking of buying one of the 7" H4 upgrades that is supposed to be an exact replacement for the 6024 we use. Has anyone done this? I am in the process of upgrading the wire size and adding relays to increase the current to the headlamp, so the H4 upgrade should go smoothly when I do it.

Thanks

 

The Phillips Nighthawk bulbs are the best. I like the cutoff and how it works. And yes, I have a H4 in mine.

More info at http://www.danielsternlighting.com - you might also look at upgrading your light housing...

 

Where does one find an upgraded headlight housing for the 1981 XJ650? Is it possible to buy an all-in-one unit?

 

I've seen them on ebay, but not the last time I looked.
Here are a couple links to some upgrades. Not sure their what your looking for.

http://www.jpcycles.com/groups.aspx?LID ... 63790ec02e

http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/p ... 369744.asp

 

My present headlight is a Sylvania H6024XV XtraVision Headlight 55/65w. However, it takes a while to get use to the pattern. It kind of has spots to the left & right, so you do see well when turning a corner, but it seems to take light away from the road in front. I'll look at this closer when I finish upgrading the wiring. So in buying an upgrade, the lens housing is just as important as the halogen bulb that will reside within.

 

I had read somewhere that your headlight could be made brighter by installing a headlamp relay on each circuit and increasing the wire gauge to widen the current path to the headlamp.

I could figure this out on my own, but instead of reinventing the wheel, does anyone else know how to do this, or does anyone know where I could find the directions?

What I'm thinking of doing is removing and splicing the wires to the headlight fuse together, then putting the relays on the other side of the hi/lo switch. Then I'll take a new positive from either the battery or the alternator output using 12 gauge wire to the headlight fuse then onto the relays. I'll re-fuse the individual paths to the hi/lo beams. The tricky part happens after the relays by replacing what originally went to the headlamp with heavier gauge wire and running the originals to ground? I will consult the wiring diagrams as I don't think this is that hard, just need to watch out for the starter circuit stuff.

BTW...GE makes the Nighthawk, Phillips makes the Vision Plus. Sylvania (Osram) Silver Star is a competitive equivalent.

 

So I collected all the colors of 12 gauge wire I was going to need for this project, and instead of buying a pigtail, I just reconnected the new wires into the H4 socket that was already there. I eliminated the connector also as I was going to need the room. I connected the new positive lead to the battery, and the ground onto one of the coil posts. Everything worked correctly the first time. I haven't heat shrinked the spade connectors hooked to the new relays yet, so I haven't buttoned up the headlamp to take her for a spin and see if there is a significant diffference. It is very white now, and technically should be brighter.

How much difference has anyone seen between a sealed halogen H6024 and a 7" lens with an H4 bulb in it? Am i getting a better pattern? My Sylvania XtraVision is a 55/65, and most halogen bulbs are 55/65, so is there a difference between the two?

 

Ok, the only problem with what you did by reusing the old socket is you've put a 'current bottleneck' into the circuit. With the large feed wires, those little tails of 18 or 20ga (whatever it was, I dont remember) are going to get hot, and you might wind up with burned insulation, which could lead to a fire. Not to mention you've basically negated the usefulness of the upgrade by not giving the bulb an uninterrupted path from the battery to the bulb.

What you need to do is go to your local Pep Boys or Autozone and pick up a HEAVY DUTY H4 replacement socket. They are wired with 14ga wire (still not the 12ga to match the rest, but a 1 AWG difference is a lot better than a 3 or 4 AWG difference). They are made by I believe A1 Racing, they will be with the performance lighting accessories, and will run you about $15. **DO NOT USE THE CHEAP $2.99 CALTERM PIGTAIL! it has the same size wires as the stock socket!**

There is a HUGE difference between the patterns of a 'composite' headlight (separate bulb and housing) and a sealed beam. Sealed beam reflectors are generally poorly designed, and are usually made by spraying a chrome paint right on the glass surface. They are made cheap becasue they are meant to be thrown out once they burn out. A composite headlight (especially the E-rated ones) has a better designed reflector, and is made by an actual chroming process to produce a mirror finish.

When you buy a composite headlight conversion (for your bike OR car/truck), ALWAYS look for a GLASS lens, not plastic. Plastic lenses start to frost and yellow over time, which is not only ugly, it reduces the light output. If you've ever seen the headlights on an old Taurus or Caravan you know what I'm talking about. Also, make CERTAIN that they are DOT approved, and also preferably E-code. E-code is a European standard with has a sharp cutoff across the top of the low beam. This cuts glare to oncoming drivers. It does not affect your visibility either way, but it is considerate. All new cars for the last 5 years or so have E-code headlights. E-code is optional in the US, but they MUST be DOT approved. There are non-DOT conversions out there that ARE E-code.

Now as far as the bulbs, the XtraVision bulbs will give you the same light output as far as wattage, but the light is a different color (temperature)

WARNING! SCIENCE CONTENT!

Light color is expressed in Degrees Kelvin (K). Sunlight is 5500K (pure white light). Anything lower in temperature appears yellow. Anything higher in temperature appears blue. Halogen headlights are about 2000K - 2500K. XtraVision bulbs are around 4000K (meaning it is a whiter light, but not pure white). SilverStar bulbs are around 5000K (whiter still). "HyperWhite" bulbs that are sold by "Tunerz" shops are in the 7000K - 8000K range (blue). Our eyes are most sensitive to 5500K. Any variation in either direction and the light becomes inefficient. However, we tend to be more sensitive toward the blue side, rather than the yellow side. The blue "Hyper White" bulbs do tend to catch road reflectors and reflective signs much better than Halogen does. That is also controversial (so sayeth the DOT), and fodder for another thread. So to answer your question, you WILL notice a difference between a standard halogen and XtraVision, because the light is whiter... But there is a bigger difference if you use a SilverStar.

--Matt

 

TaZMaNiaK,

I had removed the old wires from the H4 lugs and crimped and soldered new ones on (I had already cut out that other connector 4" away) so I was 12 gauge all the way to the socket. The purpose was as you said - to remove all bottlenecks.

Funny you should mention Caravan's, I just bought brand new housings & SilverStar bulbs for my girlfriend's - boy was she happy. I definitely like the SilverStar bulbs, now I just need to find a replacement housing that I like.

Thanks for the info.

Michael

 

For anyone with plastic headlight housings that are yellowing/fogging/glazing - a little Novus plastic polish on a buff on a drill will take care of that for you. You can buff the plastic back to clear in about 1 minute each.

Thread content - there is great debate over lights - check out http://www.danielsternlighting.com for tons 'o' info. "whiter" is not always better....

A warning about SilverStar bulbs - if you get the North American made ones, they've got very suspect life expectancies. On my car owners list, people are averaging 1 year life on those bulbs -- not a great investment for the cost. It's because the ones here are just over-driven regular bulbs with a special coating on the bulb lens -- Sylvania has even admitted this and that they are "performance" bulbs, so the reduced life is acceptable to them.
Having said that - if you can get the European made ones - those are a different animal. Different bulb design that's supposed to be wonderful.

I haven't heard enough about those new "Nighthawk" bulbs from GE. Don't know too much about them yet re: output vs life expectancy.

 

Ok, that's good. Then you're in good shape! :wink:

I guess I should have clarified... I bought the OSRAM SilverStars (in the BLUE package), not the Sylvania ones (in the gray package). I got them from a UK company called Power Bulbs (www.powerbulbs.co.uk), and they ran about 15 pounds ($40 US) a pair with free shipping (same as they cost here). The OSRAMs have a clear glass capsule rather than the blue capsule you find here. I also heard mixed reviews about the bulb life, which is why I did some research before I bought, and found that the OSRAM bulbs are better made. I've had them in my truck for 2 years now and still no burnouts. I have one in my bike too, but its only 6 months old, and I havent ridden for 4 of them. Damn winter! :roll:

Good idea for polishing the headlight lenses too.. I dont worry about that though, because my upgrades have glass lenses.. :wink:

--Matt

 

Went down to the local cycle shop and asked about an H4 replacement for my H6024. He had one in stock for $21.99. This is nice. It even came with a new hi-temp pigtail which I incorporated into the circuit. Now I don't mind driving at night so much. All of the hard work was worth it.

Thanks everyone for the help and info.

 

While we're talking of headlight upgrades, check out this.

LED headlight for Hummers. Real Hummers, apparently. IIRC, they are around $300, at JC Whitney.

Is it worth it?

 

after i did the relay mod on mine i did a osram 90/100 off-road
non-dot bulb, also cut some vents in the bottom of the headlight shell
now i've got light

 

I went out and bought the xtravision H4 bulb without looking to see if i had sealed beam or not. Turns out i do have sealed beam. Do you think i should return it and just get a better sealed beam light or would you go find a 7 inch lens to put this bulb into? (and where would you just find a lens?) thanks

 

send a pm to "chacal" he can fix ya up, personally i've never seen a sealed beam

 

Some are sealed beam, but find a new lens for the upgraded lamp IMO