Help me not to freak out on this....

Owned my xj for about a month without any issues...

It is now time for an oil change. I'm going to be doing chacal's oil conversion kit so I'm not super worried about that part.

My bike tends to run hot so I also want to do a coolant system flush (which seems more involved)

I also want to redo my front and rear brakes. They squeak which is annoying and loud. (This seems WAY more involved.)

Chacal sent me a parts/options list that is about 5 pages long...

I want to learn to work on bikes but I also don't want to mess up my xj.

Am I freaking out over nothing and just need to jump right in? Or should I just take it to a local shop?

I really want to be able to fully maintain and do everything on this bike even modifications maybe one day but my mechanical experience is limited to changing the oil, brake pads, and a hose on my 1994 Honda accord... hahah.

Do I need to rebuild my mc when I do my brakes? I so wish one of you Experts lived close to me...

 

You should do both and if you are slow and methodical they are not difficult jobs. Better to learn and keep your hard earned in your pocket. I encourage you to use the search function so that you can find gems like:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=35191.html

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=18377.html

 

don't drain the "middle gear" cavity - 10MM bolt.

You may want to use a "radiator flush" chemical available at auto parts stores.

He's good like that !! :lol: Use "copy-and-paste" to order the parts you want

It makes the most sense to do the complete front brake all in one go - and upgrade to SS lines.

For now, you can "de-squeal" your brake pads, that you will be changing later anyway, by removing them, drag them "sideways" @ 90* across concrete, then taper the leading edge. This gets rid of the "glaze" and gives a fresh surface. You will need to break them in away from traffic.
There's also products you can apply to the backside that absorb the vibration.

Your local shop is going to charge $80 an hour, even for looking up parts.

 

Absolutely, get a shop manual and use the search function! Take your time and learn proper mechanics.

Many guys come and ponder that very same question. If my memory serves me correctly, they have a harder time finding someone familiar with the xj series than learning for them selves. Often times, I think most resort to doing their own work.

GOOD LUCK!

 

I'm going to do the oil conversion kit first. That seems easy enough especially with the step by step picture instructions.

The coolant doesn't seem THAT bad...

Whats the middle gear cavity bolt? Is that in the manual?

I am honestly most worried about the brakes. Maybe when I get there I will just post another thread as I go with the questions that come up.

 

DON'T touch or think about middle cavity bolt unless you are tearing engine apart.

Even if you found a shop, they'd probably rip you off and make bike worse if you let them do carbs.

 

Do not even SPEAK of the BOLT that should not be NAMED!

Torques for this bolt are listed wrong in the Haynes, it's REALLY soft, in a precarious position, and will basically require remove of the engine if you mess up (personal experience here)

Most of the oil comes out of the regular drain bolt under the filter. That's all you should use, and that's all you need to know about draining the oil.

Get yourself the manual, and ask questions as you go. Give yourself lots of time. Almost NONE of the work on these bikes is difficult, but it PAYS to have the right tools, the right information, organization, time, and patience.

EDIT: Actually, there are two things I'd trust someone else to do: PAINT and installing TIRES on the RIMS. Of course, these aren't specific to XJs, and are not worth the hassle in my opinion.

 

Ya, you know just as much about these bikes as your local shop would. Do not take it somewhere.
I did almost everything by myself and the stuff I did have a local shop do I ended up redoing myself anyway.
What you are going to be doing is actually pretty easy.
YOU CAN DO IT!

 

You say it runs Hot, is that in city driving, as in start stop or highway driving? As it's a known "feature" of the X, especially in start stop riding, in traffic.

Just make sure that when you flush the cooling system, if you use an engine flush product, that you give it a real GOOD flush with clean water afterwards, and fill the system with an Anti-freeze mixture, otherwise you are liable to have it corroding the water ways

And make sure that your fan IS cutting in too, it usally takes until the gauge is nearly in the red or even just in the red before it cuts in

 

Hahah I think I'm just a wimp. But I do want to learn and I am motivated. Looks Like I'll just jump in and go from there. If i follow chacal's picture conversion kit pdf I won't be touching this "should not be named bolt" will I?

Running hot.

Even If I'm steady at 6-7k on the highway it stays nice and cool right about middle. Any stops at lights or stop signs and it starts to get up there I've never hit the red... But it's gotten close and I always get to go then. I'm just worried that If I ever get stuck in stop and go traffic I'll be screwed....

 

Exactly. All that work is in the front of the engine. The middle gear drain bolt is not. Chacal's won't steer you wrong, he advises that you don't touch it.

 

Try to get a factory service manual. You won't regret it.

 

I have a few different old copies that appear to be scan offs from the original Yamaha manuals. But they're for like the 650-750. I imagine its pretty much the same for my 700?

 

>Don't mention the bolt that shouldn't be named.....
good one


But remember...

don't mention the word "shop".... Oops, now I said it

Dave

 

Haha - - Voldebolt !! I like it !

 

Gasp!!! He dares to spek of the BOLT that should not be named!!

 

What is all the fuss about the middle bolt?

I have changed my oil 19+ times and never had any issues with this bolt.

Drain all of the oil out of the motor and middle gear an re-tighten gently(two fingers on the ratchet) ...it's only a 10mm bolt going into aluminum.

 

All hail the great PGDBUD LOL

 

I listed the reasons here:

Mine actually came out without and issue. My mistake was torquing to the spec in the Haynes, and it was 50% more than the Factory Manual stated. Thankfully, my engine was already out, and a left handed bit was all it took to reverse the bolt. It was still hard to get to with a left handed bit/easy out, even with the engine out due to she shape of the oil pan.

If it's seized for any reason, the bolt head will easily shear off.

 

Thats normal for the temperture gauge and running of the X, nothing to worry about. Like I said before, keep a check on the fan, that it does kick in.

If you want to be safe, you can always wire a manual switch, so you can switch it on and off when you want to.