Hitachi carb tune question ? ?

I've been lurking here since April when I got my 82 750 Seca, sure it would still be a basket case if not for all the great info, and tips I have found posted here, the step by step How To's have been a god send.

Anyway I have just done my carbs following RickCoMatic's excellent Old School guide, just reinstalled them 1/2 hour ago. The bike now starts great and for the first time since I've had it it wil idle.
When I cleaned the carbs the #2 and#3 carbs had the idle mixture screws exposed, #1 and #4 carbc still had the anti-tamper plugs in the holes covering the screw heads. I removed the plugs to get everything clean out. I turned the #1 and #4 screws in till they bottemed out at 3-1/2 turns. I also turned in #2-3 which were also set at 3-1/2 turns out.
I have set all idle mixture screw at 3 turns out for my initial start-up and test. Now that I think about it and have read a few more posting in regards to the right settings in general for the idle mixture screws I wonder if I will be much too lean with them set at 3 turns out ? ? ....the factory setting was 3-1/2 and it is widely reported here that the factory settings tend to be lean for emmisions purposes.
The bike starts well, and will idle at 1000/1100, just guessing as I'm using the in dash tach and not sure how accurate they are. The bike seems slow to come down from higer RPMs when I rev it to say 3-4K. I did polish the carb bodies and slides with some 800 grit, they CLUNKed very well I thought, much better than before. Not at all sure what the cause of this might be, maybe it's not anything to worry about just normal behavior for a motor with no resistance. I have not been able to test the bike on the move yet to see how it responds to closing the throttle as the forks are till off.
Seems the PO or someone had the forks apart in the past and put them back together with out the bushings in the top of the lower fork housing, no wonder the forks had leaked so much.

The bike is a 1982 XJ750 R or RH not sure what is what as far as models go.
Leading axle forks with dual discs, and anti-dive, master cly is mounted behind the head light. Carbs are Hitachi and were not really too bad overall.
I have been riding the bike to work for about 3 weeks, but I carried a can of starting fluid cause it did not like to start when it was cold, fine if it was warmed up. Makes me sutter to think what might have been with the front forks only having the old seals supporting the top of the forks, thats a lot of load on a rubber piece made to seal oil.

 

Just to update on my progress, solved the slow response when closing the throttle...I had forgotten to plug the vac line that goes to the fuel petcock when I took the tank off, I'm running with a temp gas supply(quart brake fluid can, drilled and fitted with a hose) hanging from the handlebar. Major vac leak, capped that off and idle jumped right up so I adjusted the throttle stop to bring it down where it should be just over 1K on the tach. RPMS now drop right off when you close the throttle, very responsive now.

I decided that the factory ppl knew more about this stuff than I did and set all the idle mixture screws at 3-1/2 turns out. Idle increased a bit but I brought it down with the throttle stop screw. Now it idles better yet, maybe not perfect, but pretty good.

 

read about sync'ing carbs, find a method you like and go for it
when they get close it'll bring a grin to your face

 

Yes, along with all the other good tips found here I followed a guide posted here and bench sync'd my carbs about a month ago, after I did the first quicky carb cleaning in a effort to get it running decently.
I'm afraid I did not take my time and as a result I did a poor job of it. I had to replace the tank that was on the bike it had 12-15 pin holes from rust in the bottom of it. First time I put gas in it was running out faster than I was pouring it in. The replacement tank had old gas and rust in it, so I did my best to rinse it out with fresh gas a couple times, then took the carbs off and gave them a quick once over with a couple cans of carb cleaner. Added a inline filter and started to ride it.
This time when I had the carbs off I did a much better job as per the guide refered to in the 1st post.
I built myself a manometer from clear tubing, yardstick, ATF and dialed the carbs in pretty close after I rode it for a couple weeks. I did a bit of fine tuneing today with it and I think it is pretty close.


I would never have got this far without this forum, I found the help I needed to run down problems with a couple relays.
I found the right way to adjust my clutch, that made a big difference in rideability.
My auto adjuster for the cam chain was not working right it sounded like something was going to come apart at anytime, I found a guide here telling me how to take the slack out of the chain bu rotating the engine conter clockwise, then clockwise till I got a loud CLICK, I got 2 of them in three tries, chain was pretty loose. The motor now sounds like it may run for a few K more.
Hell I'm not sure I would have found the master cyl if not for info posted here.

Great forum, keep up the good posts, and thank you.