How to adjust clutch pedal

hi guys, when i drove my bike today it was realy hard to get out of second and into 3rd etc. there is about 1 inch play with the clutch petal...is this normal?

A while ago I had that cover off with the oil glass on it...and i had a hard time getting it back on. could i have put it on wrong and messed up how the clutch pedal sits?

I have the clutch cable all properly set up (I think), but im having a harsh time with the gear changing.

thanks

 

First off terminology there is a clutch lever and a shift pedal that you are working with when shifting.

The clutch lever should have pretty minimal play in it otherwise you won't be able to fully disengage the clutch to shift. There is a good write up on here on how to properly adjust your clutch.

found the clutch adjustment write up http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... cable.html

 

I dont know if it's just me not fully knowing what parts are what, but even after reading that thing I still have no success with the clutch, and when I do get it to partially work I can only get the bike in first and second gear.

 

OK, then pay close attention:

The shaft sticking out of the top of the housing has gear teeth on the bottom that rotate and lift the pressure plate off the clutch "pack."

The little lever turning the shaft is what does this. It has to start its pull with little or no slack in the system for it to lift the clutch apart properly.

If you have an inch of play, then that is your problem. When you had the clutch cover off, you probably just didn't get the throwout lever back on in the right spot; so the clutch isn't fully disengaging.

To fix:

Take the little lever at the clutch housing OFF. Look closely at the end where it attaches to the shaft, you'll see a little cast-on indexing mark.

Rotate the shaft it attaches to fully clockwise, as viewed from above, until it stops.

Reinstall the little lever, with the little indexing nub on the lever lined up with the indexing line cast on the case. Once the lever is installed, be sure the index marks line up when the lever pressed fully forward by hand. Reinstall the clip and lever return spring.

Screw the adjuster at the handlebar in or out until it is halfway into the lever "perch."

Using the jam nuts at the cable bracket down by the clutch housing, adjust the cable to remove most all of the slack from the mechanism.

"Fine-tune" at the top so you have about 3mm free play in the lever with the bars straight ahead, and about 1mm with them turned fully either way.

This assumes that your cable is in good shape and properly lubricated.

If you still have problems with the clutch dragging, you may need to back the little lever up (move it counter-clockwise in relation to the shaft) by one spline-tooth on the shaft to give it a tad more pull.

"Glossary:"
-That big cover with the sight glass in it: the Clutch Cover.
-The little lever on top of the clutch housing: the Throwout Lever.
-The shaft the little lever attaches to: the Throwout Shaft.
-The lever you grab with your hand: the Clutch Lever.
-The part at the handlebars that levers attach to: the "Perch."
-There is a Cable Adjuster in the perch, consisting of the Adjuster itself and a Locking Ring.
-The cable adjuster at the Bracket on the Clutch Housing consists of two "jam nuts" on the cable itself.
-The lever you push with your foot to shift gears: the Shift Lever or Shifter.

Not trying to be a wise guy or bust your chops; it does help if we all use the same terms to refer to the same parts. Hopefully this will help.

 

Thanks a tonne for that huge write-up!!!...I will try this out tomorrow. I assume I will have to change it somewhat because that metal bracket by the jamb nuts has split a bit so I assume it means that the clutch cable isn't exactly where it should be

 

You may need to replace that bracket. That's an easy find.

 

again, thanks for the help. I did try it, but oddly it doesnt want to work. Whether I have it tighter, looser, or just as you described, it just won't go up into third...it's like the shift lever doesn't "recoil" back to it's original resting place once i put it into second....hence making it impossible to go into third, etc. Is there some special way to put the clutch cover on, and it won't work no matter what if it isnt on that way?

 

Umm, no.

Either you have a broken spring in the shifter "mousetrap" (under the cover the shifter "sprouts" out of) or your primary chain guide is breaking up and a piece of it has wedged into the shift forks, preventing it from shifting.

Either problem can be diagnosed by removing the shifter cover.

If there are no broken springs in the shift mechanism (common) then there is a hole you can peer through with a flashlight to see if there are big hunks of broken black plastic in your shift forks. (Also common.)

Your next step: Order up a shifter cover gasket, and pop that cover off. Dig up a small, bright flashlight.

 

is there any resistance to the shift pedal when you shift. I had a broken shifter centering spring on my 750 and unless you moved the pedal up and then back to center you couldn't shift it right. Try putting it on the center stand and rocking the tire while lifting and recentering the shift pedal and see if you can move it through the gears.

 

i took the cover off. here are a few pictures













I didnt know what pictures I had to take, so i took a few random ones

 

the spring I was having you check isn't in the clutch it is on the shaft your shift lever attaches to but it is behind the cover. So the only way to check it without taking of the cover (which you don't want to do unless you have a new gasket handy) is to do what I said in my last post. you don't need to use the clutch at all when you are checking it.

 

My bad...- was trying the instructions that were right above your post. I thought I'd try that first, since I don't have a centre stand

 

that makes it a bit more difficult but still doable. you can just roll the whole bike back and forth. you just have to move it enough to let the gears engage fully. (best done with a helper without the center stand)

 

You removed the clutch cover.

The shifter cover is on the other side of the bike; the shift lever sprouts from it.

 

here we go.....

 

Well the spring is still in one piece (spring in the first picture bottom left is the one that needed to be checked) . Look into the hole at the top left of the last pic and see if there are any loose chunks of plastic in there.

 

The disengagement of the Clutch DEPENDS on:

The Clutch LEVER pulling the Clutch CABLE to MOVE the THROW-OUT ARM far enough to ROTATE the Throw-out ROD to swivel on the PINION pulling the PRESSURE PLATE away from the FRICTION DISCS.

There needs to be:
The INITIATION of MOVEMENT on the PRESSURE PLATE getting pulled-away from the FRICTION PLATES as soon as the CABLE is PULLED by the CLUTCH LEVER.

ALL the component parts need to be PRE-POSITIONED to assure that the PRESSURE PLATE will get PULLED-AWAY from the FRICTION DISCS ...
AS FAR AS POSSIBLE.

KEY to the Adjustment is the MAXIMUM DISTANCE that the THROW-OUT ARM is allowed to be moved when the CABLE is PULLED.

To achieve the required amount of MOVEMENT.
With the CABLE adjusted to NO Free play.
The ROD turned for NO Free play.

The THROW OUT ARM needs to be at least 10 cm ( 4-Inches ) below the Lower Nut of the Cable Adjuster.

 

There are no black pieces in that hole...squeeky clean.

there is approximately 3.5 inches from the bottom of the clutch cable to the lower jamb nut. perhaps there is no possibility of getting the clutch set right until that bracket is fixed/replaced?

 

If the bracket is split or damaged in such a way that it "flexes" allowing the lower end of the cable to move when the cable is pulled, then yes.

That lower bracket has to be the "Rock of Gibraltar" for the cable at the bottom, if it's moving at all when you pull the lever then the clutch won't work right.

Have you replaced or lubed the cable?

 

It's NOT dependent upon the BRACKET.

It's a combined Mechanical and Geometry matter.

The Cable Sheath needs to be positioned where Precise adjusting will provide the Maximum movement of the THROW-OUT Arm.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... cable.html

 

the bracket does flex. It is split about half way at the 90 degree bend. The split is on the side that holds the cable. No replacement or lubrication of the cable..w1as wanting to find out the sure cause of this and replace the misc things later.

 

Where a few mm's is critical.

Your Bracket places the END of the Cable too close to the Throwout Lever.

It needs to be Higher and more Forward.

The Cable should follow a Straight Line along the Arc of the Throwout Arm.

 

So does this mean the problem is potentially that clutch cable bracket that is held by the jamb nuts?

 

If the bracket is split at the bend and flexes every time you pull in the lever, then YES.

The jam nuts lock the cable in place; the bracket is supposed to be doing the "holding." If it's not solid, the cable can't pull the clutch in fully.

 

Thanks for the help. I'm gonna see if I can fix it to at least make it work until I get a replacement

 

The Bracket certainly is one thing that's keeping you from being able to get the Clutch to operate correctly.

While you are waiting ... you can Test the Throw-out.

Grab the Throw-out Arm with a pair of padded Vice Grips.
Move the Arm manually, ... to get Maximum "Throw"

You should be able to Engage and Disengage the Clutches to determine it the Adjustment is at fault.

 

Does it make a sound or something that would let me know that the clutch propely engages/disengages?

 

Not if the Engine isn't running.

If the Bikes fired-up.
Put it in 2nd or 3rd.
The Clutches should engage and release smoothly.
If it Squeals; the Frictions are slipping.
If it's Harsh and Jumpy -- The Drivers might be scored or warped.

If you already have the Case Covers off, ... reward yourself with a New Clutch.
It's worth the money to have a New Clutch in it.
You can break it in nice.
Then, not have to worry about it for a few seasons.

Check with Len --> Member "chacal"
Lots of places are running preseason sales.

 

I went to the wreckers and got the bracket off a 650. obviously the one on my bike was home made...

 

Ya think???

8O

And just so there's no mistake, I'll repeat that:

8O 8O And GADFREY! OMG. Crazy Canucks; silly PO.

"Home made" is an understatement. Good catch. It should make this a whole easier for you.

 

wow just wow.

 

Side-by-side ... they seem to match up pretty well.

 

ya i thought it looked a bit ghetto when i first looked at it....the guy at the motorcylce wreckers had a good chuckle when he saw it. overall it did the job until it started to split at the 90 degree bend. now just to wait until the cover gasket comes in so i can put it back together and see if that proper bracket makes a big difference. the jamb nuts had to go considerably higher than they were though

 

The jam nuts should end up somewhere near the middle of the threads, and the upper adjuster should have plenty of range. If that's where you ended up, then all is good.

 

You'll have a perfectly adjusted clutch when:

• The Clutch Perch Cable Slack is pre-set -- half--way -- and lubed with waterproof grease.
• The Cable Sheath is FIRMLY seated into the receiving-end of the Perch Slack Adjuster.
>> Push the Cable into the Perch Adjuster with the Lower-end's Adjusting Nuts loose enough to allow the Sheath to be shoved up into the Perch Adjustment receiving end.
• With the Sheath FIRMLY Seated in the topside adjuster's end, ... LOCK the Lower-end the Lower Case Bracket.

::: With the Cable Sheath locked-down, ... PULL the CABLE down, ... TIGHT!
With the Free-play taken-out of the Lower-ends "Mechanical Components" and the ROD secured to let you position the THROW-OUT ARM, ... Place the Throw-out Arm on the Rod's Splines ... positioned so that the Connecting Linkage almost touches the Cable-end's Barrel "Knarp".:::

• Use padded Vice Grips and connect the Cable into the Throwout Link.

• Finally, ... Adjust the Topside Adjuster to find the point where the Cable has been slacked to FEEL the slightest free-play in the mechanism.

• With Finger-pressure ONLY --> Remove the Free-play to where you achieve the point of --> "Zero Lash".
> Done!

The Topside Adjuster is now the ONLY adjustment necessary.

With Zero Lash the Clutch will be a joy.
NO Clunking into Gear.
NO Redlight Neutural Fight
NO Phantom Creeping

 

the gasket finally arrived. just to be sure that I install it properly (and dont have to do it again). it this picture how I put it back together or does it have to be positioned in a specific way?

 

Whenever I have to remove the Shift Cover, ... I do some "Prevent"

Replace the Small SPRING ... Upper-left.
Replace the SEAL in the Cover.

Locate the Wire from the Ign. Pick-ups.
Secure it from being PINCHED when the Cover is replaced.

 

so did i place the stuff in the right place? the clutch pedal part

 

?anyone? I just want to make sure I have that part put back in properly and there are no other details I am missing before I put the cover on

 

Dude. That's NOT the "clutch pedal." That is your shift LEVER, and it does appear as though you've got the two "segments" in proper mesh. The clutch is lever operated, on the other side of the bike, and we just dealt with your oddball cable bracket issue.

You can adjust the final position of the shift lever itself by a spline tooth in either direction so it fits the angle of your foot, after the cover is back on.

If I were you, I'd take Rick's advice though, and replace that little spring as well as the shifter shaft seal in the cover. So you don't have to take it back apart anytime soon.

 

i went to put it back together, and this is what happened...



wow...it just shattered. this sucks big time

 

This is exactly why we recommend REPLACING all the springs in the "mousetrap" while it's apart.

Since you'll be ordering a new centering spring, GET A NEW PAWL SPRING too! (The little tension spring in the upper left of your first pic.)

You also might want to replace the third spring in there, the one that's on the forward segment and lifts the little shifter arm up against the drum. The hooked end on that one quite often breaks off. That particular spring has broken for me on three different '70s~'80s Yamahas I've owned over the years, not just XJs.

And since you'll be ordering all 3 springs, get a shifter shaft seal for the case.

 

guys, I have all the parts now. How in the world do i get this black rubber ring thing into the cover? it is super hard.

also, any special advice on the springs?

 

guys, Im having difficulty with the shifter shaft seal. how am i suppose to get it into the cover hole?

 

Did you get the old one out ok?

It's not hard rubber, there's a metal shell under there.

Generally speaking, the best way to press seals into a cover or other piece is with a socket of the appropriate diameter. Be sure you orient it in the correct direction.

Here are a couple of examples, neither of which is exactly the same but you can get the idea:

 

Thanks, does the smooth side point out and the open end with the spring in it face inwards.

Yes, I do believe I got the old one out. It was slimey and took some work but it came out

 

Correct. The "lips" ("open" side) should face IN.

It won't take very much in the way of tapping to get it seated if you're careful to get it lined up nice and square first.

 

horrible mini drama. I hammered the seal into there and it cut right up. i went to the yamaha dealer and bought a new seal. i gave them my cover and it ends up that the metal part from the old seal was still there...no wonder i was so confused on how to get it into there. anyways they took it out and put th new seal in at no charge (minus the price of the new seal). now that is done.

I am ready to put on the cover.

can you take a look at this picture and see if it looks normal before i go ahead with the gasket.

thanks

 

Sure. Yes.

But only if you REPLACED ALL THREE SPRINGS.

 

no success...same problem. Is there some special way to get set this thing in there. I have it on and it still isnt clicking into different gears.