How to remove speedo/tach guage needles? (EDIT: Answered.)

~All the following information pertains to the guage cluster from an '82 xj650 maxim~

EDIT 3: I was able to figure this out. For those interested, I'll type out how I went about it.

First of all, the needle hubs seem to just be press fit ont the shaft. Careful prying removed them. Though, they did go flying off. I'm still looking for the speedo one... :/

As for the trip-meter knob. It just threads on. I used a pair of locking long-nosed pliars to hold the trip-meter drum shaft and simply unscrewed the knob. It's important to note that these are REVERSE THREADS. Do not try to unscrew it anti-clockwise or the plastic threads will likely strip out.

Anybody know how to remove the needle/needle-hub-thingie from the stock speedo and tach?

I'm making new housings and shrinking the guages a little but I need to remove the guage faces and I can't seem to get the needles off.

Are they a press/glue fit? Anybody remove them successfully?

Thanks in advance,
~Rev


EDIT: I also can't seem to get the trip knob off.

EDIT 2: Apparently the needle hub is press fit onto the output shaft of the tach. Careful pressure with a small screwdriver proved to be sufficient for removal. Note of interest: the needle hub WILL go flying off and land behind large, heavy furniture. The setback is exasperated by hystarical laughter.

 

I never had any luck with those damn needles. Just so you know, different bikes have different methods on the odometer button. On mine it's held on with a tiny screw that goes down inside the knob. You might want to put the model bike you have in your signature, makes it easier for people to answer questions about your bike.

 

Good advice. Editing signature.

 

This might help, albeit a bit late: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15303.html

The needles aren't so much pressed on as they were "fused" on; I suspect some form of adhesive since the little stub is knurled.

Be careful with the speedo. In most iterations of these instruments, the needle itself serves as the "down stop" for the clockspring. If you get the needle back on in the wrong relation to the rest of the assembly, you'll lose the precise preload that was on the clockspring to begin with; and thus screw up the accuracy of the instrument.

 

That's interesting. The needles on my guages came off with a tiny brass sleeve type thing that slides onto a smooth shaft connected to the spring. I suspect that it's the same as is pictured in your post except your didn't remain embeded in the plastic hub thing.

I'll try to post some pictures later today.

As for the speedo, it seems to be alright. Thanks for the heads-up though.

Big thanks for the input.

 

I've never had trouble removing mine (trouble with brittle needles breaking, but not any trouble getting the needle hub off....)....I use a couple small prys (prizing bars that a clock-maker friend of mine made for removing clock needles).

I put down a couple thin pieces of cloth, then a couple thin pieces of wood. The cloth protects the face, the wood provides a more solid base for the prying.

The needles are actually a plastic needle fused to the knurled knob....the knurled knob has a small hole/tube in the back that is just a press-fit onto the spindle the comes out of the mechanism body. Once the needle is off, there are two screws that hold face on.

You do need to bear in mind that these needles may be quite brittle from all the sun/UV exposure so it is also likely that it may break. I will often pick up a dead gauge just to pull the needle. So I have pulled many more needles than I have replaced because of that.

Now, what I have found that works for me......There is a 'stop pin' that the needles settle down against when the bike is either at 0mph, or at 0rpm. The needle is flexible enough that, if you are careful, you can lift the tip over the top of the pin. the needle will now settle down a little lower than 0. Once it stabilizes, you can just barely nudge it and you'll see it return to that same position. Now you are at a neutral point w/ no tension. Make careful note of the EXACT position of the needle before removing it.

Replace your face, or get your new needle, etc..........

Now simply press the needle back on at the exact neutral tension spot. Now carefully lift the needle tip back over the pin.

Put your gauge pod back together and go ride.

I've only done 6 sets of xj650 gauges so far, and a few xj700 gauges, so I think I have a system that works.


YMMV

Dave Fox

 

Or you could have needles like mine... They would rather self destruct, than come off that knurled shaft lol.

 

Just swear at them a bit.....they'll give in.

Dave F