Hydraulic clutch please help.

On my 1988 vmax i had to rebuild my master cylinder. I drained the mc and threaded a shop towel through my ss galpher line and kept it tied up. So i didnt even drain the line.

Got it all rebuilt mc is building pressure.

The bleeder for the clutch is left side under a little rubber cap. I spent two hours trying to bleed the damn thing. The clutch still isnt engaging fully. I can put it in gear but it lurches and dies like when you drop the clutch.


Whats the proper bleedinv method, my manual is less than descriptive.

Close clutch lever open bleeder, close bleeder and release lever. Pump a few times and repeat?


Or


I watched a video where they said to open bleeder (some bubbles come out and fluid) then close clutch lever (a bunch of bubbles come out and a little fluid almost like squirts) then close bleeder and release lever.

I started with method a then moved to method b. An hour and two full mc's later still not engaging fully.


What gives?

 

Pump the lever a few times, hold it in, open bleed valve, fluid/air bubbles comes out, close bleed valve, release lever and pump a few times again and repeat the whole process a few times until you get no air coming out of the valve and you're done.

 

You're V-max will capture air at the banjo bolt, just like the MC on a Maxim.

Bars turned to the right, bike standing upright if you can. Squeeze the lever, crack the banjo bolt, tighten banjo bolt. Repeat a few times. Easiest with a helper. Hold towels or rags under the banjo bolt to catch the fluid that leaks.

 

Sweet. Ill try both of these. Anywau to know if its done other than dropping it into gear?

 

On my Suzuki there's a area on the clutch lever that must open the line to the reservoir and it will just drain out if you hold the lever there.
Just keep the top full and watch for clean fluid.
Don't forget to wrap the bleeder with teflon tape

 

Im not sure what you mean polock.

 

first put 2 wraps of teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder and make sure the little hole is clear or it will suck air back past the threads.
on my suzuki if you loosen the bleeder and pull the lever just a bit and hold it there, like the piston moves less than 1/16 inch, the fluid will run out of the bleeder. not fast, but enough to change the fluid. it's a completely different set up than yours, but give it a try