I JUST BOUGHT AN XJ: A Newb's Journey with a 650 J Maxim

So I bought a good running XJ650 J Maxim for $800.

My mission? To make this thing bulletproof in a month or so to take on a trip to Costa Rica, park it there for a couple months (so as to cross the Darien Gap without it), and eventually turn around and come back for it, and drive back up to Texas (and beyond!). Other half of this mission is to learn enough in this month of intense wrenching to feel confident taking care of it along the way... And for the rest of my life.

Given that many people have suggested a "Newbie FAQ: What to do when you just bought an XJ" thread, I figure, hell--why not try and make this into one?

(Read the second post for BigFitz' "The List" he gave me of thing to check that I'm working through right now. Then go download a manual--I found one googling on Scribd; if it's not still there, I'll update this post with a link to a place it can be downloaded and put it up myself.)
(Hey moderators: I have a PDF of the service manual, can it be put up for download here on the site somewhere? It's an old Haynes, good quality file, 174mb.)
(I'd like to keep editing the second post with BigFitz list, over time, to include links on how to perform every operation listed, along with possibly Haynes manual references.)

Current state of bike when purchased:

Better than most. It has sat during most of the last two years, however it was owned for most of the last ten years by a mechanic (who died, and passed it onto his sons). The carbs were cleaned (probably vatted) about two years ago. Carbs seem to be in good shape judging by the way the bike runs right now; haven't taken them off to check, though. A little scared of the carbs, frankly, after all I've read on this forum about them. Can't help but want to just leave them alone, since they're running well as is, and just add some seafoam for good luck.

Compression is 150 on all four cylinders.

It starts right up with full choke, needs to idle for a while to get off the choke, but... Less than 1second start up, though, roars right to life. Warms up faster if I just ride it around. I read that it's better to ride a motorcycle right away, to not let it idle--that this gets the engine lubricated faster, and warms it up quicker, meaning less wear per startup. Does this sound right to you guys?

Engine feels very powerful, no obvious warning signs. I have taken it up to 80mph, and it was just a beautiful machine the whole way through... Didn't feel a 'spike' of power at 7000 rpm, but a long, steady pull, reminiscent of the way my buddy's BMW 1000cc feels when pulling away in second gear... Great feeling.

What I've Done
(Short list so far)

-Changed the oil (it was pretty black)
-Changed the oil filter (it was very black, and stinky)
-Inspected the air filter (needs to be cleaned or replaced; Advance auto parts had a slightly different looking one they could order for $50! It was K&N though. Is it worth it? Can I just clean mine? Should it be replaced? Is an OEM fine?)
-Checked tire dates--front tire mid 2007, rear late 2005. However, it was garage kept, and the tires have decent tread and no cracking, so I think I will leave them on until I am in the final stages of prepping the bike.


Potential problems?:

1. I don't know enough to diagnose this with confidence, but I have noticed that when shifting into first from neutral after starting, and when shifting in first and second while moving slow, I feel like the clutch doesn't fully engage, or something--like I can feel the equivalent of the 'chain' (the cogs I guess) rolling and not quite biting. It's only sometimes. Does that sound like clutch to you guys? It doesn't impede riding, but I'm sure it is wearing on some internal parts slowly until something is adjusted to be a bit smoother. I basically just have to really shift it hard to get it to lock in, not as gentle as I would like to or normally otherwise have to.

Perhaps this is actually some problem with my shifting technique or something? Maybe it's from having it choked too high, thus having the RPM's too high?

2. I noticed there seems to be some gas leaking out of the bowl on the leftmost carburetor, just a bit. I see residue of what looks to be a similar leak coming out of the third carburetor from the left as well, though I have only caught the left-most bowl actually glistening. Is there a gasket there perhaps needing to be replaced? I see some potentially missing screws, as on the bowls there are three little 'ports' facing backwards--some of my carb bowls have screws in these, some do not.

3. The rubber boots look a little cracked all across, but mildly so, and are currently performing well. (Where can I buy these/how much?)

4. My headlight beam switch on the left handle snapped off. It requires some force (you must be stopped) to move it with something of suitable stiffness and size--I used a key to fiddle with it, then left it on bright and don't mess with it anymore.

5. Petcock: when I first got it, it died within half a mile. I thought I just hadn't figured out the choke yet. I checked the gas--looked empty. Switched to 'RES', and started right up. Promptly drove to a gas station and filled it up--2.5 gallons, $10 @ $4.00/gallon (premium--gas is cheaper in Texas than most places in the US, I understand, but it's been going up lately... good thing it's cheaper in Mexico). Within 2 days and a little less than 100 miles I think, it lost power and died suddenly on the highway. Expected more range... Switched to reserve, nothing. Tried everything I could think of. Eventually put in a gallon of gas. Spent another couple hours calling everyone I knew for advice. Someone finally mentioned to my uncle, who was calling people he knew for advice, that sometimes 1 gallon isn't enough--after running through lines, filling floats, etc., it may not be enough to start a completely empty engine.

Sure enough... By that time I had almost killed the battery, so I ran it down a hill. Started on the second try (didn't push it far back enough first time) with a second gallon in the tank. Started purring. Immediately went back and topped it off to the brim--another .7 gallons. 2.7 gallon tank sound right?

Why didn't my tank leave me some in reserve? Yet, if the petcock was totally bad, shouldn't I be having problems starting it up? Any ideas? I plan on rebuilding it before I go anyways, but just thought that was weird...

7. I ran automotive 10w-40 for the trip home--I then replaced the oil before doing anything else. Any possible ill effects from that?

8. Spark plug cables--they visually inspect fine to me, but the mechanic who looked at it before I bought it (who also tried to sell me on some unnecessary stuff and lost my trust...) mentioned that they could use an upgrade. What should I be looking for on those?

9. Also, BigFitz mentioned this:

"Stock YAMAHA pipes don't discolor because they're dual-walled. Aftermarket pipes do; it depends on the exhaust that's on it.

If it's a STOCK exhaust that's discolored, the motor has overheated horribly or the inner pipes have rusted away, which is rare."

I've gotten conflicting info from other people (my uncle, rider of many years, says this happens to all bikes' exhaust. Another commenter on the thread said something similar); so, can someone look at my video and tell me if I have something to worry about in this regard or not? Are my pipes not stock, was BigFitz mistaken (if so, it would surely be an exceedingly rare occurrence--I've read a ton here already, and grown to respect his knowledge greatly), are they just rusted, was the engine definitely run way too hot, or what?

MY CURRENT TO-DO LIST (to be redacted)

(notice the quotes from around this forum... I have about 10 tabs open with various threads from this forum right now...)

Immediate:
-Seafoam (purchased; recommended use?)

-Delamination check (!)

-Check/adjust valve clearances

-Replace brake lines with braided steel

-flush the brake fluid; inspect the entire brake system, including pad thickness and rotor condition. If you don't know for sure as to when the last time (if ever!) that the calipers were replaced, replace them.


Before trip:
-Service Brakes, Tires

-replace the stock fusebox with a late-model style enclosed fusebox that uses the push-in "blade" style (ATC) fuses. A little "wire extending" is necessary on most bikes, but again, not technically difficult.

- eventually, you're going to have to clean and tune the carbs. My advice, is to do it once, to it right, do it COMPLETELY, and do it thoroughly. Anything else is just a "penny-wise, pound foolish" type of effort.

- you'll have to invest in a couple of specialty tools: valve shim bucket tool, synch gauges a/k/a synch sticks, and a colortune spark plug for maximum tuning ability. (Do I need these during my trip, or is it enough to borrow them for a tun up before I leave?)

-add an in-line fuel line filter. And consider replacing the filter unit inside the tank (sits on top of the petcock) and perhaps rebuild the petcock in advance of it failing (they all do, eventually!).

-"check the condition of the air filter element and replace if necessary."

-You will need to completely rebuild the front brake system if it hasn't been done

-clean and lube all of the electrical connectors on the bike. Corrosion is a factor with any electrical connector, but is especially true with bikes as they are exposed to the elements, and the length of time. Technically simple, tedious but boring to do, absolutely essential. Here, read this when you get the chance and print it out for future reference: www.geocities.com/Moto...dway/7795/

(Question: How can I go over the electrical system and make it bulletproof? What does that process look like? Sounds a bit scary.)

-"check the condition of the electrical system, specifically the alternator stator and rotor electrical resistances, the condition of the battery, and measure the length of the alternator brushes----and replace if needed."

.....

I've got a service manual, and I'm just working through the easy stuff right now in the maintenance table, reading through everything, getting an idea of what I'm getting into. Cheers! And thanks for this excellent resource, this forum is great. I have been skipping meals the last couple of days just ingesting everything I could here...

 

Well that's a fun post to enter 'First Gear' on...

If anyone has links come to mind for anything on this list, put it here and I'll add it into this post. Feel free to expand this list, as well, if possible.

 

Video of bike idling warm, just before I purchased it:

youtu.be/LLw0cIpEv30

Pictures of my bike ('82 XJ650 J Maxim):

 

That is technically a copyright infringment

That's very good

Depends on the air temp. Below 40*F I let it warm for a couple minutes. Above 40* I let it warm up for about 30 seconds, then about a mile down the road the choke gets closed.

Do it again after about 300 miles or so. After a couple years of sitting the oil should be cycled through much quicker to get as much of the old nasty dirt out of the motor as possible.

Replace with OEM, and DO NOT pay more than $25 for it

Sorry, but they gotta go. Rear is past its life, and the front isn't far behind. Doesn't matter about what you can see, the rubber breaks down on a molecular level and can leak/crack/split/shred on you without notice

Could be one of two things:
Cable out of adjustment
or
Friction plates dried out from not being in oil for two years

You gotta take the carbs off and clean them. You can look at all the gaskets and seals then. They sat for two years, they have to be gone through. It's not as bad as it sounds.

XJ4Ever. There are also ways to recondition them.

If you had the petcock set to PRI instead of ON, you ran it out of gas. PRI and RES draw from the same level. Test your petcock with the hoses off. It should flow in PRI only.

Actually I think it's about 3.5 gallons. And with dirty carbs, etc. that's about the right mileage. When all cleaned and tuned proper you should get about 45 miles per gallon.

Probably not, as long as you changed it to motorcycle oil right away. Could also be part of your shifting issue.

OHM them with a multi-meter. If they can flow juice through them, you probably won't need new ones.

Don't use it. It will not help your carbs. They need to be cleaned.

You don't need to replace the caliper, you need to rebuild it. Replacement shouldn't be necessary unless it is in very bad condition.

You shouldn't need them for the trip unless you are going to ride more than 5,000 miles. Just for the tune before you leave, and after you clean your carbs. (yes, it will be as recurring theme)

I would also do some short day trips before I put any sizeable mileage on it so you can be sure you have (mos of) the bugs worked out.

And get the proper master cylinder and rebuild it. Get rid of that POS from the honda. I don't believe that has the same power as the stocker.

 

It gets below 40F about 10 days or less out of the year where I am, and I'm heading only closer to the equator, so... I'll stick with the 30 seconds. I found myself following this advice riding tonight.

The oil filter is supposed to be changed every other oil change, according to Haynes; however, should I just change it as well after 300 miles, change it on the oil change following that, or change it two changes after that?

Are you referring to the clutch cable, I guess? I'll go search for a quick how-to. If the Friction plates are dried out, is that something just remedied from riding and will get better with the new oil, or something that needs to be replaced, or maintenanced in some other way, or...

I still wonder if I'm just doing something wrong, if I hit the shifter too slowly or something or something.

Something else: taking off, I realize there's a weak spot, I think; when letting off the clutch, I feel like I have to pull back the throttle a considerable amount to make up for it. It's very brief, and perhaps I'm just out of touch and that's normal on these bikes, but if I don't pull the throttle back a significant amount I can tell it would try and sputter. Perhaps it's just something that I need to get a more experienced motorcyclist to feel to see if it's within normal limits.

I've seen people on here recommend seafoam, though... What is its proper application? Are there disagreements on this? When is seafoam useful?

It could very well end up being 4,000mi both ways... Suggestion?

Will definitely be doing some test trips beforehand.

Where can I find a proper master cylinder? I'm pretty poor and trying to save as much for the trip itself as I can, so while I will spend all that I need to spend to make it reliable (I expect somewhere in the $600-800 range)... If it will do the job (even if it just means keeping a closer eye on it), then I'm willing to stick it out for the time being and put off that exchange for later.

 

I change the filter at every oil change. Just gives it some added protection. But the first time, yes it should be changed. You never know what kind of gunk is in there from the PO, and this will help get it out of the system.


If the friction plates have dried out they will probably not "come back to life" with new oil. You will need to pull the plates and inspect them for wear and thickness. The material they are made from will start to crumble if dried out from storage and then put back into use.

The stuttering on take off will be fixed when you clean the carbs.

Seafoam is kind of a "miracle in a bottle". It can be used as a carb cleaner and fuel stabilizer. But it's not really all it's cracked up to be. If your carbs are gunked up this stuff won't do anything to clean them. If you are storing it for the winter, Sta-Bil is a much better product for treating the petrol. DO NOT USE IN OIL on a motorcycle. See clutch problems above.

For the trip just stick to the maintenance schedule. You could probably wait until you got to you destination for the valve check, as long as you put them in spec now, then re-check before your trip. You will need to do a sync if you change out any shims while there, but you can build a homemade manometer for a couple bucks, so I wouldn't bother packing one.

Will you have a place to work on the bike while there?