I need to adjust my clutch cable.

I'm not sure how though, but I have to squeeze the clutch in 100%, to change gears, and it seems to have a decent amount of play in it. It didn't mess up until I replaced the spring down near the engine that pulls the bar that the clutch cable is attached to back down.

I put a non broken one on, and it made the situation worse, but that doesn't make any sense to me, maybe some of you have an idea of what happened. The old spring was broken, so it did absolutely nothing.

 

Give this a read. Rick wrote a great Clutch guide that should get you goin in the right direction.

*************************************************************

Clutch Adjustment & Clutch Cable Replacement made simple.
Special to: XJBikes.com
Copyright: November 23, 2006
All Rights Reserved.

By: Rick Massey

Here's my submission to our up-coming Tech Section. There's nothing worse than grinding a pound of gears trying to get the bike into first gear, fighting with the gear change pedal to get into Neutral, having the bike do the "Red Light Creep" and missing a shift. This article will cure those symptoms for you.

Eventually, you'll need to replace the Clutch Cable; too. I have done my best to provide a step-by-step procedure that even the most inexperienced Member should be able to understand and follow when the time comes to swap-out a Clutch Cable.

Following Repair Manual format; here's everything you need to know ... to replace the whole Clutch Cable or simply Adjust your bike's Clutch for smooth riding or Track Day!

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cable Replacement:
Note the way that the old cable is routed, from the Clutch Lever Perch, around the front, along the frame, through guides, over or under parts, down along the frame, to the mounting point on the Engine Case, below the Carb's, at the rear of the Clutch Case.

(Make notes, a drawing, or stick tape with arrows pointing the way, if you can't remember how it needs to go.)

Down at the Engine Case:
Bend the tab on the Clutch Throw-Out Lever Mount to allow the Lead "Bullet" Cable End, to be removed and release the cable from the Throw-Out Lever's attachment point.

I use a big Crescent Wrench. Push DOWN on the wrench lifting the Throw-Out Lever and maneuver the Cable End Bullet out of its holding bracket. Pad the jaws of the wrench (or any tool you use) with paper towels.

After detaching the Bullet, relax the wrench pressure allowing the Throw-Out Lever to retract. Clean and lube the pivot point of the cable attachment bracket.

At the Cable's End:
Remove the hard rubber Dust Seal. Un-screw it and slide it to the end of the cable along with the nuts and washers collected as the Cable is removed.

With fresh brake fluid or Armoral, lube the Dust Seal for withdrawing the rubber dust seal off the end of the cable, over the Bullet.

Loosen and remove the Lower Hex Locking Nut and Washer (if present).

Push the threaded Adjusting Barrel through the top of the Mount if the Adjusting Barrel does not come loose from the bracket. The barrel might slide right out from the Mount. Other's may need to be withdrawn. Either way; undo the Adjusting Barrel from the Mounting Bracket.

At the Clutch Lever Perch:
Remove the Hex nut on the end of the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin.
Remove the Pivot Pin bolt.
Slide-out the Clutch Lever from the Perch.

Remove the Cable End and Bullet > (or any remains of a broken cable) < from the Clutch Lever.
Line-up the Cable with Slot on the Lever allowing for the removal of the Cable End from the Clutch Lever. Slide the Bullet UP and out of the "Bullet Hole" on the Lever.

Clean-out the channeling and the Pivot Port for the lead Bullet. Put a dab of Waterproof Grease in the "Bullet Hole" and set the Lever aside.

Clean the Knurl Cable End Adjuster and its Locking Ring.
Add NeverSeize to the Knurl's threads.
Place a dab of NeverSeize in the threaded hole for the Knurl on the Perch.
Place the Knurl, with its Locking Ring all the way on, into the Perch's threaded opening.

Spread the NeverSeize along the Perch's inside threads by running The Knurl > IN, to the end and back OUT; several times. Add additional NeverSeize, if needed, to insure the Knurl Adjuster moves freely, without binding. "Exercise" this vital Clutch adjustment mechanism until it is able to move with precision. The Smooth and precise adjustment of this feature is absolutely necessary to properly and precisely adjust the Clutch.

Make sure the Locking Ring is on tight, at the end.
Bottom the Knurl into the Perch, against the Lock Ring.
Turn Knurl OUT 3-1/2 Turns. (Exercise the Knurl IN and OUT, in this particular area, until it adjusts velvety smooth, with no binding or resistance.)

The Cable:
Out with old and in with the new. Follow your notes or taped-on arrows.
Thread the end which attaches to the Clutch Perch > up through the bike < Starting at the Case Mount and ending at the Clutch Lever Perch.

At the Clutch Perch:
Thread the Cable through the > lined-up slots < of the Perch, Knurl and Locking Collar.
Put the lead barrel "Bullet" into the Clutch Lever "Bullet Hole" and mount the Clutch Lever, the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin and tighten Hex nut.

Make a "Final adjustment check" on the Knurl and Locking Collar. Run the Knurl OUT 3-1/2 turns -- positioning the slot > Inboard < to prevent the Cable from escaping during the remainder of the replacement and adjusting.

Critical Proceedure:
Use the Knurl's "Thumb Wheel" Locking Collar and LOCK the KNURL tightly in place, 3-1/2 Turns OUT. Place the Cable Sheath's End-Fitting FIRMLY into it's seat at the open end on the Knurl.
SECURE the sheath against escaping from the Knurl's seat with a strip of Vinyl electrical tape until all Cable and Clutch adjusting is complete.

Down at the Case:
(Mod's for Performance and Precision Adjustment of Clutch include some additional hardware items.)
Place a Hex nut, a Stainless Steel washer and a Nylon washer on to the Threaded Clutch Cable Adjustment end. (Nut, Stainless washer, Nylon washer.)
Slide ... or slip-in from the top ... the Threaded Adjustment End into the Clutch Cable Holding and adjustment mounting bracket. Secure the bottom of the Threaded Adjuster with additional hardware items:
Place a Nylon washer on first.
Place a Stainless Steel washer on next.
Place the Hex nut on the Adjuster; third. (Substitute NyLoc Hex nut for stock nut.)
Rubber Dust Shield; last.

Critical Procedure:
While holding the Threaded Adjustment End tight into the mounting bracket; tighten the Lower Hex nut, with sufficient force, until BOTH Nylon washers "Crush" and mould themselves to, and around, the top and bottom edges of the holding bracket.

[Use standard, thin, stainless washers. Use Nylon washers that are "Soft", about as thick as a Nickel or slightly thicker. The Nylon washers are > supposed to < get Crushed and become non-slip fasteners ... holding the Threaded Barrel of the Clutch Cable, firmly, in the same place, while final installation and adjustments are carried out. Also, to allow fast and accurate adjustments of the upper and lower hex nuts should future cable adjustments be necessary.]

With the Threaded Adjuster tightened in place; place the Lead Bullet End of the Cable into the Cable Attachment Pivot at the end of the Throw-out arm. Push the arm UP, as before, using a proper tool, and capture the Bullet in the pivot attachment devise. Don't fold-over the tab until ALL the Clutch Adjusting is complete.

Release tension on the Throw-out Lever.
Inspect and insure that the Bullet end is firmly seated in its holding slot.
Now, check the Throw-out lever for Cable Slack and Throw-out Lever End Play.
Remove all Slack and End Play.

If the Cable is slack and the Throw-out lever has loose End Play ... LOOSEN the LOWER Hex nut on the Threaded Cable End Adjuster and TIGHTEN the UPPER Hex nut > Holding the Barrel from rotating by holding the Fixed Hex Flats atop the barrel, just above the locking Hex nut on the Threaded Adjuster ... until ALL the SLACK in the CABLE is REMOVED and Throw-out Lever End Play is reduced to Zero Lash.

ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH:
Continue adjusting the Threaded Adjustment End of the Clutch Cable until you remove ALL the Slack in the Cable and the Throw-out Lever is > "On the edge" of ZERO LASH. NO End Play." Use finger pressure on the exposed cable to "Feel" the adjusting process.
You need to adjust the Throw-out arm to ZERO Lash. Such that adjusting the Hex nuts on the Cable's Threaded Adjustment by only one or two flats will provide just a hint of LASH. Adjust the Cable at the Lower Cable Mounting Bracket for ZERO Lash at the Throw-out Lever.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

** [ You need the whole throw-out on these XJ Clutches. It is not unusual for the adjustment to be complicated by the improper replacement of the Clutch Throw-out Arm, after any work, which might have made removing it convenient or necessary. If you are not getting enough Clutch throw-out; it might be necessary to reposition the Throw-out LEVER a notch or two Counterclockwise on the splines of the Clutch Throw-out ROD.

Remove the Throw-out Lever from the splined end of the Throw-out ROD. Turn the ROD Clockwise until its motion stops upon contact at the clutch.
Maintain contact at the Clutch by holding the ROD fully Clockwise and reposition the Throw-out LEVER back on the spines to where it's new position removes cable slack.

Make the necessary adjustments to all the lower components and adjustment features until you get ZERO Lash at rest ... and complete movement of the ROD Clockwise when the Clutch Lever is pulled.] **

The Clutch is preliminarily adjusted. Although, it very well might be Precisely adjusted.

Test ride and observe for the ease of shifting, finding Neutral, and NOT bucking or jumping into gear.

Further fine-tuning of the Clutch Adjustment is done by adjusting the Knurl, on the Clutch Perch, IN or OUT as needed.

The ability to tweak the adjustment of your Clutch using the Knurl ... allows you maintain Perfect Adjustment at all times.
This feature also allows you to make immediate adjustments if heat becomes a factor in the Adjustment.

When the fine-tuning and adjusting is done ... LOCK the adjustment with the Knurl Locking Ring. Lock it up TIGHT. Most clutch problems are a result of the Knurl vibrating and loosing it's position.

Good job adjusting that Clutch.
Like a new bike ... ain't it???

I don't recommend doing gear changes without releasing the clutch. All too easy to ding-up surfaces and start having transmission trouble.
_________________
Rick Massey
Staff Technical Writer

 

Basically, it amounts to adjusting the Sheath surrounding the Cable tight to the Handlebar Knurl Adjuster when the Throw-out Lever is taunt.

The trick on XJ-Bikes is to have the Cable be as tight as a Guitar String.
You NEED the whole Pull.
If you don't get the whole Pull from the Cable ... the Clutch Throw is not sufficient to prevent:

First gear clunk.
Red Light creep.
Neutral fight.

If the Cable is nice and tight. You can (and should) make Minor Adjustments using the Knurl Feature on the Lever Bracket.

Being able to make the Cable Adjustment down at the Lower End without the Cable coming loose of the Cable End and Adjustment Bracket is KEY!

If you need to ... secure the Lower End of the Clutch Cable from "Falling-Out" of the Adjustment Bracket with a couple of loose-fitting Plastic Tie Wraps.

Then, you can wrench on the Cable End Adjustment and make some turns to the Opposing Hex Nuts that both Adjust and Secure the Cable End to that bracket.

You want to adjust the Cable to the point where there is Zero Lash on the Throw-Out Arm ... then, lock it down.
Further adjustments are made upstairs using the Knurl and Locking Thumb Wheel.

Set the Knurl and the Locking Thumb Wheel ... Half-way ... before you start the Cable Tightening ... that way, you can "Take a little off" if the Clutch is too tight and slips ... and, "Put a little on" if you find yourself battling Red Light Creep or the Bike jumps rather than smoothly engages First Gear.

 

The problem I am having is I don't know the words you guys are using. I think what I did, is when I pulled the clamp off the lower arm and pulled that arm totally off to add the new spring, maybe I didn't get it tight enough when I reput it back on. Going to look at it tommorow, and check that rear brake thing I was talking about before since I am off. I'll get a pic up of the part I am talking about also.