IGNITION KEY BROKE HALF WAY OFF AND IN THE IGNITION.

Yes the key is still in the ignition and I had to push it to the garage because I don't know any shortcuts to make a temporary fix. Would appreciate any all suggestions.

 

You can always try this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRD58qqmRWE

 

Sounds like it is time to service the ignition switch.
Follow smuckoholics write up.
http://www.xj4ever.com/clean%20and%20lu ... switch.pdf

Ghost

 

Take the ignition switch off, spray some lube in it, turn it upside down and tap it against something. Hopefully it'll fall out, if not try to work it out with a paperclip.

 

Does the switch still work when you put the part of the key you've still got into the switch and turn it with the broken piece still stuck in?
If so i'd leave it as it is and look for a new switch.

 

I will need to get another key to open the seat. I believe that is where the harness seperates to do a "hotwire" thus bypassing the ignition. And no the key will not turn the ignition because that was my first hope before I pushed it a mile on Portland Metro streets (luckily there was a parade I followed with police escorts) with my trailer attached too). I will take another look at the lock to see how I might remove it as well, thanks.

 

You have a couple options...

1. remove the switch (you'll have to remove enough stuff at the front to get to the mounting bolts underneath, so take notes on what you remove/disconnect). Then remove the helmet latch/seat latch/gas cap/chain......anything that uses the same key. Take the whole batch to a locksmith and have him make a new key. That way if he has to order anything, you can at least put the other parts back on the bike while you wait for stuff to come in, and you also now have extra keys.

If he can't make a new key, ask him to re-core everything for a different new key.

2. Take the switch off the bike, as above, then dis-assemble the switch, remove the core. Now.....CAREFULLY pull each of the tiny brass sliders and the even tinier springs out. Make sure that you keep detailed acount of which slot each slider was in, and what the orientation is. If you don't, you never get it to work right again. also, IF YOU LOSE A SPRING YOU"LL NEVER NEVER EVER NEVER FIND IT!!!!!! So DON'T lose any springs!!!!!

Once all the sliders and springs are out the key part will be loose so remove it.

Or, take just the core to a locksmith and let them take care of it from that point at which you pulled the core. You just did all the work for them, so all they have to do is the last little bit now.

Re-assemble everything.

I've been through this a couple times.

3. Remove the switch from the bike, as before, then hit up the forums or ebay and just buy another switch with a good key. You'll just have to ride with two different keys.

I have some bikes that have one key, I have some that have a different key for the gas cap, and I have one that has three different keys....one for ignition, one for the tank, and the third for the seat/helmet latch. LOL

Keep us posted.

Dave F

 

I might be called crazy for this... but this is why I buy the 14 dollar yamaha key blanks. It may not have been the problem in this case, but the hardware store keys almost always break after a few years. In most cases they are longer to fit more bikes and they end up twisting easy.

 

You're crazy!
I get keys made at ACE Hardware for a dollar-eighty-nine.

Plus, I lube the Ignition Switch so it turns like butt-ah!

 

I've never had one break......the bikes that I have that have multiple keys came that way. I keep the cyls lubed like Rick said.

The only keys I've ever broke are in the doors at work, since the locks there tend to get dry. When I think of it, I rub a pencil on the key tips to keep dry graphite in the cyls. Thinking of it, I think I'll go do the office door right now...........

Dave f

 

Maybe its just the keys they use at my local hardware store. The end of it is so wide that it allows you to get way too much force on the key.

 

Keep in mind the old bugaboo about Yamaha keys:

There are six different series locks; therefore 6 different "blanks," "A" through "F."

And they're not interchangeable.

From Len's catalog:

NOTE ON KEY BLANK STYLES: Yamaha used 6 different key blank styles, designated as A, B, C, D, E, or F, and you can re-key an individual lock only to another pattern within the same key blank style.

Originally, your bike came with two keys that were cut to the same pattern and fit ALL of the locks on your bike (ignition switch, gas cap, seat and/or helmet lock, Powerlock chain if so equipped, etc.). These keys were unqiue to your bike, and were cut to a specific pattern which was identified by a KEY CODE. This key code was stamped onto the key head, and also was either stamped into the base (bottom) of the ignition switch housing, or has a small metallic adhesive-backed tag that had the key code stamped into it and that was affixed to the bottom of the ignition lock housing. THERE IS NO OTHER PLACE ON YOUR BIKE WHERE THIS KEY CODE APPEARS!. None of the other locks on your bike have the key code impressed, stanped, or labelled upon them.

In the old days, you could have Yamaha cut a new key for you by presenting your bike's VIN number to them, as they had VIN-to-Key Code translation information available to them. Few, if any, dealers still have such information still available for these older bikes.



Key Blank Style Determination:

Of course, if you have the original key that came with your bike, then the entire key code (letter and 5 numbers) is stamped onto the key head, right below the black plastic cap.

If not, you can determine what key blank style you have by removing your ignition switch.......and the entire key code is either stamped into the bottom of the switch housing, or is printed or etched onto a paper or aluminum tag that is glued to the bottom of the ignition lock. The key number always starts with one of the letters A-F, followed by 5 or 6 numbers. The 5 or 6 numbers are actually the "serial number" of the individual lock.



Swapping Lock Mechanisms:

The lock mechanism can always be removed from an individual component (ignition switch, gas cap, or seat/helmet lock unit) and swapped out from another similar unit. For example, if your bike originally uses locks that accept a "D" style key blank, then you can substitute another "D" style lock mechanism from a donor bike and then have that donor lock re-keyed to match all of your other original locks on your bike.....usually an expensive task at a real locksmith, but it can be done (or you can do it at home, if you have the patience of Job). However, if your bike originally uses locks with a "C" style key blank, and you buy a gas cap with a lock and that gas cap lock uses a "F" style key, you cannot have that "F" style lock mechanism re-keyed to accept the "C" style key.


Hope that isn't too much info.....but when buying replacement parts that incorporate a lock mechanism, it's useful to keep the above in mind in case you want to have all your locks keyed the same.


Finally, remember that except for the ignition switch, the key blank style and key code (A-F) is NOT stamped nor engraved or marked on any other lock mechanism. The only way to determine which key style (for example) another gas cap lock uses is to try a key into it (even a blank, un-cut key); an "A" style key won't fit into a B-F style lock, etc. (although we have found that "C" and "E" blanks will sometimes interchange......). If you're buying a used ignition switch, with or without the key, you'll have a good chance of knowing which key style it uses as there is a key code printed or engraved on the bottom of the switch housing (assuming the printed or engraved label has not gone bye-bye after all these years); all other locks (gas, helmet/seat, and powerlock) you must either have the original key or know the ignition switch key number of the bike that component came off of!

 

Getting a whole Brand New Ignition Switch is very affordable.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2610859813 ... s&var=sbar

 

To remove that, it's easy, just a bunch of easy stuff to move.

1. remove the headlight
2. remove the headlight bucket pivots and lower bolt if there is one
3. move the bucket as far out of the way as you can
4. you may have to move wires/cables
5. you may have to loosen the cluster
6. two bolts hold the switch to the triple clamp
7. unplug the wire lead
8 put the new one in
9 button it all back up in reverse order

Dave F

 

I went out and looked at my 550 Seca.

It looks like it may be necessary to completely remove the headlight shell because of the "full diaper" bulge at the rear. With the headlight bucket completely out of the way, it shouldn't be necessary to loosen the cluster to get the switch assembly out.

If you only loosen the shell and can gain access to the mounting screws, then the cluster will need to be loosened or removed to provide enough clearance to remove the switch.

 

That too......

Dave F

 

Sorry I haven't got back earlier but wanted to comment about the fix. I ordered a new ignition switch and had keys made. Turns out the key was not broken off in the ignition therefore no need to replace the ignition. I now still only use 1 key for all three locks. :-] Thanks for all the help.

 

And for some reason my bike has an A ignition, B tank cap and C seat lock (not 100% on the order but still).

All are genuine Yamaha keys, ign. has the lengthwise "grooves" on the left I think, tank on the right & seat has no grooves

So from factory they all had 1 key for the lot right? I thought perhaps (as the seat key is smaller than the others) that maybe they had 2 keys (ign/tank, and seat) and mine just had a tank cap swapped... :?

 

From the FACTORY, you would have had ONE key that would match all components: Ignition switch, fuel cap, seat latch, helmet latch, and security chain if your bike came from the factory with one.

If you have multiple keys, someone has switch parts at one time or another.

Dave F

 

Hinteresting.... :? Wouldn't mind different keys of same type, I'd just re-key the tank and seat to the ignition then... Ahh well, maybe the original keys were lost on export from japan and the importer just threw in what barrels he had. One more thing to buy lol....

 

So how would one go about getting a complete set of barrels, or can you rekey mismatched barrels if they at least match on the key style (A-F)?

 

as long as the key style matches, you can rekey the barrels.

CN