ignition problem

I have a yamaha xj700 maxim that i have been working on for awhile now. been working on the carbs and it was running good and now out of the blue, i am having ignition problems. It has been sitting in the garage as a project bike and has under 10,000 miles on it. It has a new battery and a new starter celinoid relay switch. It was cranking great and now out of the blue it just starts to crank weak then it starts clicking. The connections all seem to be ok. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be? Would it even attempt to crank if the actual starter was going out?
question 2:
Is it possible to crank with an impact wrench and is it possible to put a kick start on a bike with electronic ignition in case of emergencies?

 

Check the battery voltage. What you describe is classic dead battery. Maybe your charging system is not working? Maybe you have not been running the engine over 2K RPM for an extended time (system will not charge the battery at idle)?

 

the battery is brand new. it was just bought last night and i did put a charge on it. it also has new acid. the bike has not run yet. it tries to crank weak and then starts to click. it will not turn over and run.

 

Have you checked the voltage on the battery? If its the only thing you've changed since this problem started, seems like its a dud.

Kick starting a 750 doesn't sound like something I'd want to take on - I'd be push starting in a pinch. A little tough if its cold, but it beats walking home!

 

The entire line of XJ Series Engines are "Cold Blooded" and difficult to start from Dead Cold.

Add a touch of Cold Temperatures to combat and you have a situation that might be very frustrating.

I use a long length of Windshield Washer Hose run from the Seat Rail into the Box from about the left rear shock.
Shoot some Genuine Starting Fluid in the Hose and Use the Enrichment Circuit.
It helps a lot.

The Battery needs to be Fully Charged.
The Carbs need to be Cleaned and well functioning.
Plugs need to be in good shape.

Of everything mentioned, ... the Battery needs a Full DEEP Charge to spin the Mill and have reserve to run the Bike.

The Blast of Starting Fluid during Cold Months helps-out a great deal.

 

As far as the kick start for emergency purposes not gonna happen . Your better off roll starting it if your starter quits. But you need a decent charge just to fire the ignition. Tell me you didn't get the battery from Walmart I was desperate and bought a battery for my virago from there a year ago I have replaced it 3 times now going on #4 It does not get fired up to often charging system works perfect no draws when its off. But spins the bike about 10 times then it does the same as your describing. And by the way it takes a lot of fussing to get it replaced there is no warranty on bike batteries from them ad least that's what they told me

 

Charge the Battery and try to measure if there is any leaks in the electric system - An Amp meter in series with the Battery and nothing switched on.
I've once bought a cheap battery, but now i only buy quality batteries. Because it's damn to have no juice and try to start. (and it's only a few bucks more)

 

don;t need an ampmeter. a simple voltmeter or test light doest the job.

disconnect one of the cables. and hook up the meter or test light between the disconnected battery cable and the battery terminal. any light or any reading on the meter indicates a draw. (draining the battery when it shouldn't be).

if the bike had a computer then you would want to do a amperager draw. as the computer needs voltage to maintian it's memory. but you would need to know the specs. to see if something is drawing more then the computer.

 

Less juice is Seasonal.

Colder temperatures reduce the Chemical action within the Battery resulting in less Power stored by the Battery.

 

Hopefully he does not have a draw with the battery disconnected sometimes can be a royal pain. Even tho he has a new battery and chances are its not bad i would much rather replace the battery again then chase down a short

 

one of the old school tricks was to run a ampmeter along the wiring to find where the amps were being drained at.

the first trick though, is to simply pull a fuse out one at a time. to see if the drain quits. that will tell you what circuit is causing the drain.

 

I would just like to thank everyone that responded to my ignition problem. It appears to be low cranking amps. Took the starter off to get a screw loose and had to bang on it a little, then I put it back on and the dang gong thing started, but it is a little warmer today. I bought a battery from Walmart it seems to be low amp. So, I might have figured it out! Thanks again to everyone.

 

Do yourself a favor, ...

Rig the Airbox with a Hose to get some Starting Fluid down in there.

You want the Bike to Start.
You don't want the Bike to endure a long ... "Cranking Session"

Get her running, quick.
Don't put an unnecessary burden on the Starting Clutch.

 

Thanks for the advice, but I installed pod filters and removed the airbox and also put in bigger jets that i got from 6sigma engineering. Thank you. any advice for getting starting fluid into carb with pod filters installed without having to spray pod filters? Thanks

jim

 

uh oh.....you've just hit the exposed nerve of many members here...be prepared.......

I would loosen at least two filters and shoot WD-40 into them, it fires very well, won't dry the cylinder walls.....or just take the easy way out and take four baggies with paper clips and cover each of the pods till it warms enough to run on choke. Just don't cut all the air off with the bags. Please don't laugh at me guys, it works. I learned a lot of "home remedies" at the track years ago but I'm always afraid to post them since so many will make fun of something they hadn't heard of or learned before.

jeff