Ignition switch nor key will not turn bike off

Hey y'all! I have an 82' 750 Maxim. The other night while I was letting my bike warm up for a ride I heard a 'pop,' them smelled electrical short circuit. As a result, the ignition key will not turn the bike off nor will the Run/Stop switch.
I have a couple HID projectors (35W) that I wired to the positive terminal side of the starting solenoid and a ground to the frame. The reason I mention this is when I hooked them up this 'POP,' occurred. When the lights are off the Stop switch will kill the bike however, the key still won't. When the projectors are on, turning the key off will result in the gauge cluster to dim and the Stop switch will kill the cluster lights completely but will not kill the engine. The battery drains now too...
I have checked ALL the fuses, the Stop/Run switch, and the Ignition switch and nothing is burnt, frayed, grounding or smells burnt. I DID take apart the Hitachi Ignitor and it smells like it had a small short circuit. The bike will still start, but will not charge. Is the starting solenoid and the Ignition control module bad?

 

You made a short somewhere when you hooked up your lights (They shoudl have been on a seperate fused circuit with a dedicated really; not on an existing circuit).
Go through the circuits that are connected to your new lights. Look for melted things.
Is the 35W total, or each light. If it's each light, then you are overloading the stator and it will fail shortly.

 

They were connected directly to the battery and nothing else; ground was to frame on a separate switch too, I don't know what could have fried that's what's so confusing. I charged the battery and shot wires and now the bike won't turn over (acts like a dead battery) with 2 different batts hooked up. The lights are 35W each HID ballasts. Could the starter solenoid be bad and the Control module?

 

I had a problem similar to this many years ago and it ended up being a connector in the headlight bucket. The only way to stop the bike running was to disconnect the battery. You have other things going on with lights etc. plus my bike is a 750 Maxim-X. Anyway, open the headlight bucket and look for a white connector that has turned brown(ish). Mine shorted out just enough that the wires were barely touching, but enough to cause this problem. It may be worth a shot, used to have a link but lost it when my membership ran out and I deleted a bunch of stuff.
If needed I could go and pull the headlight apart to get a picture if absolutely needed.
Good luck.

 

Which is it?

 

Positive wire off of the battery directly to the starting solenoid that's where I connected the light. Sorry for the confusion. The bike is acting like something is drawing all of the current and not allowing the starter to take advantage of the full amperage draw.

 

Lights are switched via the ground. You may have a phantom current draw along the hot wire to the lights (which is part of why using a switched relay to turn the lights is a good idea).

 

I disconnected the lights altogether. So I came back just now after a couple of hours sitting and the battery was at 12v. When I turned the key on the voltage took a dive to 7v. When I hold the starter button down the voltage went up a bout 2-3v... What is that about?!?! Something, and I don't know if it was the lights that did this took a major crap. Could the amount of draw those lights have when the fire up hurt the generator?

 

The pop could have been a battery cell failing. Have it load tested.
Yes the draw of the lights could have damaged the alternator, but only with the engine running.

 

The engine was running and as soon as the "pop" happened neither switch or key would shut it off. I did smell a short circuit, I still think the TCI is bad. The battery is brand new wet cell. I hooked up my R6's battery to it and the same thing happened. The starter acted like it was being powered by a dead battery. Do you think a capacitor in the TCI crapped out?

 

The TCI has nothing to do with the starter. If it were bad the bike would not run (or not run well). Your problem is that it won't shut off.

I am convinced that you have a dead short somewhere. Take the seat and tank off, grab a multimeter, and start searching.

 

I took a peek in the bucket and everything seems fine. Some home power is getting to the bike through the frame. I've disco'd the positive and negative leads to the battery, connected the positive charger lead to the batt then touch the frame with the negative and everything come on when I turn the key. Something is humming and the starter won't engage...

 

Thanks for the help. I'm doing that now and for some reason I'm getting power through the frame. When I connected the negative lead from the lights to the neg on the battery that's when the pop happened. I'm thinking whatever shares the same ground got over powered due to the high amp draw from those ballasts. The pop came from under the tank.