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Initial comments on APPLYING Por-15 Silver Paint

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Metal_Bob, May 30, 2012.

  1. Metal_Bob

    Metal_Bob Active Member

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    This post is about my my initial experiences about PREPPING for and APPLYING POR-15 Brand Silver paint. (This is not about the quality or durability of the paint - Mostly because I don't know yet).

    Between believing some of the products P.R. hype, online/forum reviews and the desire for a long lasting paint for rusty and clean metal I have purchased some POR-15 paint products. Namely POR-15 Silver paint, Chassis Cote Black and Gloss Black Engine Paint. (I bought silver vs. black so I could clearly see if I fully covered my parts with the black topcoat paints). Additionally I have some Marine Clean and Metal Ready bottles (prep products for the POR-15 3 step process) from my tank sealing kit. (I'll buy more prep products just before sealing my tank).

    My first test subject is a spare valve cover (from eBay) that I want to paint black with Silver Ribs and YICS prior to installing a new gasket.

    OK on to some comments:

    * The Marine Clean significantly DARKENED my bare aluminum cover (both the smooth and wire wheeled areas - basically all the surface areas I cleaned) - See pic below

    * The Metal Ready didn't seem to darken the cover any more than it already was now.

    * The Silver POR-15 paint (which is not suppose to be shaken only stirred) was clumpy on the bottom before stirring. The consistency, initial clumpy-ness and color of the paint reminded me of Testors model paint bottles (silver, chrome and/or aluminum colors). It even smelled like it!!

    * A little paint really does/can go a long way if you apply it properly. Just as the manufacturer claims. That being said...

    * The paint did not "self level" self and allow the paint strokes/brush marks to disappear. (The first application/layer was done with a foam brush - the second with a bristle brush). If this paint was not a "base" coat, I'd consider buying POR's Solvent to thin the paint just a little.

    A quick note: I didn't have time before going out to see a movie to completely paint the valve cover. I was rushing and tried not to get to many paint drips. So I ran out of time and had just a few paint drips. My second application and coat was done to finish painting the exposed metal and repaint the ribs & YICS for a more uniform paint look. (Have you ever painted with TESTORS silvery/chrome paints? It's not always easy to remove brush strokes or get an even color).

    Here are some pictures. Click for larger versions.
    (Folder is public if you want to look at other pics I took/take).

    Stripped and partially wire wheeled Valve Cover - 3/4 sides done (outdoors afternoon):
    [​IMG]

    Cover after Marine Clean Darkened it :evil: (outdoors afternoon):
    [​IMG]

    Partially painted part (outside but shaded area):
    [​IMG]

    Second application/coat (taken at night in my shed):
    [​IMG]

    The brush marks and drips are the worse on the center top area. Thankfully, most of the part will be a glossy black and most of it will be hidden under the gas tank.

    With my initial results, I wish I had experience with inexpensive paint guns. I'd probably have more uniform color and no brush marks.

    I've never been a very good/patient painter (even when doing model cars as a kid), but I DID follow all the HIGHLY RECOMMENDED prep steps. So hopefully the paint will adhere properly and last a long time.

    NOTE: Future paint projects will include rusty parts (which POR-15 is truly meant for) as well as trying to paint over chrome (silver paint then the Chassis black). Eventually I want to paint my engine and covers with exposed or silvery fin edges and some alum/silvery highlights here and there.
     
  2. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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    Great report
     
  3. Metal_Bob

    Metal_Bob Active Member

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    A few tips I forgot to post at 3am.

    * Don't dip brushes into original can unless going to use it all at once. I used a disposable plastic tub with a lid.

    * reseal all containers with seran wrap between the lid and container body.

    * do your best NOT to get paint into can's lip. If you do you better use the seran wrap unless you want to glue the can shut.

    * wear junk clothes & LATEX GLOVES. the paint is not coming off and stays on skin long time.

    * paint OUTDOOR, preferably with a mask.

    * buy disposable brushes. You WON'T be reusing them.

    Some of this info provided by manufacturer the rest by forum posts and web store reviews.
     
  4. mlew

    mlew Well-Known Member

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    I have used POR-15 before and it is a great product. Some tipe from me.

    * Don't remove the lid from the can. Punch a small hole on either side of the lid to pour the paint into another container for painting. Seal the holes with tape when done. This will make the unused paint last longer.

    *DO NOT get the paint on anything you don't want it on. There is a caution lable on the can" THERE IS NO KNOWN SOLVENT TO REMOVE WHEN DRY". They mean it. Once this stuff cures it will not come off . I splattered some on my arms and face and did not know it, I had black freckles for weeks after that.
     
  5. mtnbikecrazy55

    mtnbikecrazy55 Active Member

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    dang, that stuff seems intense.
     
  6. Metal_Bob

    Metal_Bob Active Member

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    Mlew how do you thoroughly stir without shaking with just a lid hole?
     
  7. mlew

    mlew Well-Known Member

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    The last can I had did not say I could not shake it. I was using black, maybe it is different for the silver.
    In your case if is says do not shake then I would follow that. I would remove the lid and stir then put the lid back on and punch some pouring holes. I can say if you get paint in the lid groves and put it back on you will have a very difficult time getting the lid back off the next time.
     

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