Just purchased '81 xj750 Seca

this is my first bike

fixed almost everything that was broken or not working
Leaky Valve Covers
front left turn signal
Speedometer
meter lights
LCD polarizer was fried
broken drum brake adjustment piece

still have a wish list but so far so good
brake lines(mine are old rubber ones)
front tire
helmet lock, had to drill the lock cylinder out carefully
sissy bar for a spare rider
led lights + relay
windscreen

just have one problem that I've never encountered

when only 1st gear and only first gear, and revving up to 5000 rpms my bike goes into a false neutral and of course since I'm on the throttle when it neutrals it jumps rpms but as they go down it goes back into gear

bent shifter forks? if so which once is first? I just know there is 3 and I haven't taken it apart but I do have a service manual

or worn gear dogs?

thanks in advance
hopefully I can become a contributing member of your bike community

 

I just posted something about your wording in the other clutch thread.

Just so we're on the same page, False Neutral is when you go for the upshift, and instead of hitting the next gear you get no engagement and the gearbox is stuck in neutral until you stab the shifter again. Usually you'll get a neutral light with a false neutral, especially on the 1-2 upshift.

Clutch slip is when the gear is fully engaged, but when you try to accelerate too suddenly the motor speed overruns the clutch's ability to sync the motor and gearbox speeds, and the engine rpm's "flare" but the bike does not accelerate...and when you back out of the throttle and engine rpm's wind down the clutch hooks up again, as the engine and tranny speeds equalize...and you are once again delivering power to the drive wheel.

 

PS get a front tire FIRST...that's the most critical item on a bike, in my opinion.

 

where is a good place to buy one, and what is the best brand of tires?

 

Oooo. That's a touchy subject. Almost like asking what's the best oil to use.

You'll learn about that as you go....nothing gets motorcyclists into a debate more than an oil or tire thread.

Best? Real open for debate. And depends a lot on what you ride and how you ride it.

I can only tell you my experience. I tend to go towards cheap tires, as I really don't like paying $150 for a tire that only lasts 6-8 thousand miles anyway (front will last a little longer, usually).

Last time I splurged a bit and got Dunlop D404's, that's a good mid-level tire common on cruisers, and used as OEM tires on a lot of brands. The front is still in pretty good shape after 7000 miles, but starting to get cracks in the rubber, so I'll replace it next spring even though it still has usable tread left.

The rear lasted about 6000, I just replaced it with a Shinko 712, went cheap this time again. $56+shipping from here:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/

Great service, cheap shipping, no hassles. Tier came in just 4 days, just as they said it would.

I mount my own tires, so I don't know what mount+balance costs anymore.

I really like the tire so far, it seems real sticky and strong...it had a heavy carcass and sidewall, which I like in a tire. Only small problem is the broad shoulder on it, where tread meets sidewall, made slight contact with the driveshaft tube when installed. It buzzed about 1 mm off by friction and now runs in perfect "zero gap" relation with the tube. I'm going to contact the manufacturer and try to make them aware of it, as I've seen others here talking about it too with 712's.

I'm going to get the 712 for the front when I replace it, I like to keep the same brand/model tire if possible....just makes sure the radius, tread patterns, grip and response are similar for predictable handling...

I tried Maxxis (another cheap one) once because they are real cheap, I wore it out on the rear in less than 4000 miles...I don't recommend them, personally.

 

well Oil wise, I would recommend amsoil just because I am a dealer, and I use it in my car hah, but it does knock down heat on this air-cooled bike, only issue is I just wasted synthetic since I did not know I wasn't suppose to use it.

tires, I found those Shinko 712 and your right there not super expensive found them for 62 dollars after shipping, would you guys like me to post pictures of the bike?

 

We always like pics.

 

if anyone has a lock that goes into the helmet piece that would be nice
whats the recommended adjustment for the shocks?

 

Nice bike. I love the Secas.

 

The shocks (IMO) stink, the preload is the only thing worth a darn (IMO)
At 175 lbs I am one step below max preload. 2 Up=Max load

I like the removed fender and relocated plates, identical to my setup.

And on your passenger pegs, you can place 2 pennies on each side and they will level out instead of sag. Give that a shot if the sag bothers you(it bothered me)

And tires I work with come from Chapperal Motorsports Online. Cheap and free shipping and great selection. And great customer service skills

 

yes it does bother me, do you think it will add value to the bike if I use like nickels instead of pennies =P
jk

yeah I was trying to figure out if i should replace them or just adjust them with something like you did.

I fixed the clutch slip i was having, after putting new oil in today, 15-40w shell it no longer slipped but just popped out of gear into neutral

and i was like blaaah! and so being to angry I remembered I had messed with the clutch handle, specificaly the little round adjustment and BAM! everything runs great, but thanks for all the help, i will definitly change the clutch plates at some point, and i just ordered a Shinko 712 front tire.