Killswitch Trouble

Hi, I'm a new poster but I have been reading a lot on this site for a year or so. I have a 1982 maxim xj750 and the p.o. did some, but not much modification to the bike. I've had to replace the ignition switch with one that's damn near the same but the lock doesn't work. That doesn't bother me too much. They also cut the killswitch wires to the right hand controls. I've tried wiring them back together and they still didn't work. So I tore the tank off and took a look. There was no fuse box and there is just inline fuses scattered near the airbox.I think everything is mostly wired right because I was riding fine but just didn't have a killswitch. The start button would work intermittently and that along with the cut wires made me just order a new right hand control switch. I got the new switch and hooked it to the harness, the start button worked but the killswitch didn't. I think the start button is related to not enough volts but I might be wrong. The p.o. wired a push button straight to the starter solenoid for a start button. This always works regardless of volts. Anyway the problem I have is that the killswitch circuit is not factory. I'm almost certain that every red/white wire on the bike is connected together in some way or another. Does anyone have a wiring diagram that is more detailed than this one? http://xjdiagrams.thundervalleypower.com I found it on one of the threads but either in horrible at reading it or I just am having a moment but the red/white wires from the controls don't touch each other, right? I looked at it last night and I'm pretty sure they do on my bike. I'll see if I can post pictures soon. Any help would be appreciated and I'm sorry for the wall of text. I'm posting on my phone and I don't know how long it really is. I'm just too lazy to get on my computer three feet away...

 

Sounds like po jumped those red/white somewhere in the harness or the wire is broken someplace. Do you have a test light to trace or a digital meter to check from start to finish . Keep your eyes peeled for those little blue wire connector that clamp on 2 wires.

 

This is straight from the connector, there are 5 red/white wires in the electrical tape, the other wire from the connector goes down to the next picture(Alligator clip to show where), where one of the wires from the electrical tape goes, and the other from the electrical tape goes to a relay under the tank. The next one is by the tci and again every red/white wire is connected there as well. The solid red wire is the wire connected to the one with the clip on it.

 

It looks like PO bypassed all the safety relays on the bike. Side stand , clutch interlock, kill switch etc. you need to isolate each one and replace those wires to put it back to stock. Or find a new wiring harness!

 

Well the side stand safety works,I didn't know there was a clutch safety but I always park in neutral so it didn't really matter. I'm trying to put it back to stock but the diagram I mentioned is kinda vague. I'm assuming I can just take one of the wires in the mess of electrical tape from the connector and ground it? I'm not familiar with theses diagrams, one wire from the switch goes straight to a fuse but then the color is grayed out. Is that ground on that diagram? I tried with one of the wires already but the bike ran horrible with the killswitch disengaged but ran better when it was engaged. Should I try the other wire? I'm at a loss with which wire connects to where. The wire from the starter solenoid to the relay is untouched but everything else is connected together.

 

Red/white from fuse direct to kill switch with no other wire connected to it then re/white leaving to side stand, start cutoff and TCI.

 

The fuse if on the diagram, there is no fuse on this circuit on my bike should I put one in? And if I do where do I connect the other side to? Never put one in from scratch before. That's the only thing that doesn't add up.

 

you can find these in the information overload post the last link is the parts list it should be all you need

http://xjdiagrams.thundervalleypower.com/wiringdiag/d10a.jpg

http://xjdiagrams.thundervalleypower.com/wiringdiag/d10b.jpg
http://xjdiagrams.thundervalleypower.com/wiringdiag/d8.jpg

 

Those are the diagrams I was referring to. I'm probably going to feel so stupid but where does the other side of the fuse connect to. Idk what the grayed out wire is.

 

voltage from battery goes to main fuse up to sey switch then back down to tail light/ lic plate light and input to all other fuses
red from main blue to tail lights funny color to fuses

 

no fuse block disconnect the battery go to the parts store and buy one. or buy 4 inline fuses for the plug in fuses .

 

the grayed out wire brings the voltage to the other fuses.
follow red wire from battery in diagram it goes to main fuse 20 amp the grayed out wire brings voltage from key back to all other fuses.



the grayed out wire is brown
this is a 550 dia if you look at it the brown wire comes down to a connector then splits into a yellow red a red white and brown wire to fuse block
http://frankjohansson.com/stuff/xj550/XJ550ElectricalDiagram.html

 

you will need a fuse block with 4 fuses with individual in and out NOT ONE with a COMMON voltage BUSS

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-an-aftermarket-fuse-box.6350/page-2#post-455909

 

Thanks for all the help, I think I found the problem. The killswitch wire is wired into the ignition power and straight into the harness, completely bypassing the switch. I will see if that works once I get off work.

 

Well it did work, there was a wire i didn't see that was near the tci and it was a red/white wire that was spliced or was factory from the brown wire from the key. i hooked that up to a killswitch wire by itself and it works! Thanks again for all the help. I had no clue what the brown wire was for. That helped me figure it out.

 

Yea it's alive