looking at this xj

anyone have any insight as to what I should look for when I go look at this bike tomorrow?

http://bellingham.craigslist.org/mcy/4187877160.html

CN

 

I'd start by looking the frame over carefully. It looks repainted; not quite the right shade of red (could just be from the camera though). The Seca 2 came with bodywork that matched the color of the frame, so a black bike should have a black frame.

The second thing to look for is all the usual checks for any bike: Compression, weeping oil seals (including fork seals), wheels being in line with each other, ect.
The Seca 2 was a mild update of the Seca 650, so it's just as well built as the original.

 

>The Seca 2 was a mild update of the Seca 650

Uh.....I don't believe that is correct. Others can chime in with the correct info, though.....................

I may be wrong----but don't think so.............yet.

dave fox

 

You're right. It was an update of the '84-'91 XJ600, not the 650. Oops.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/Yamaha-XJ600- ... 763/g.html

I'd agree with this refiew, although I owned the older xj600 (Fj600 in the states).
I also read that the motor does not like short journeys and condensation (Mayonaise) can be found in the oil filler cap.

 

With that many miles on it, my biggest concern would be that the valves may never have been touched. If that's the case, it's in the "danger zone."

Be sure to get a compression test. I believe for that bike you should be looking for something in the 150psi ~ 160psi range.

 

excellent point. thanks to everyone for your insight. the bike is 101 miles away and I can't see it till tomorrow evening after the guy gets off work.

if the guy will let me do it, I will do a compression check. should I disable the ignition to prevent damage to the ignition system? or should I just put the plugs in the wire ends and ground them?

CN

 

Just unplug the TCI unit. It's probably under the seat or behind one of the side covers.

That bike takes (tiny-a**) 10mm spark plugs (your 750 uses a 14mm plug) so you'll need a 10mm adapter for your compression gauge. You'll need a 16mm (or 5/8") plug socket and for that bike I'd have a long-ish extension handy too.

I always warn perspective sellers up front that if I'm interested in the bike a compression test is a condition of the sale. I've walked away from more than one engine rebuild I didn't want to bite into; I thought one guy was gonna cry when I explained what those numbers actually meant.

There are lots of nice-looking, maintenance-neglected bikes out there with a dead tight and/or burnt valve or two that got parked when they quit starting reliably. There are enough bikes on the market that I won't consider buying anything unless the mill is solid to begin with. A compression test can save a whole lot of headaches.

 

thanks for the heads up on the plug size. I am pretty sure my compression tester does both sizes of threads. I will have to dig it out and see. in retrospect, I wish I had done a comp. test on the xj750 I bought last august. I am sure I could have talked the guy down some since the valves all had zero clearance.

CN

 

The two common sizes our older bikes take are 14mm (your 750) and 12mm (the 550s.) That bike uses a tiny 10mm plug which is why I brought it up; they aren't uber-popular.

 

now that you mention it, my tester doesn't have the 10mm size. looks like I am getting a new compression tester today. this is exactly the kind of bike specific info I was looking for. thanks. is there any other things about this bike I should look for? what about the chain? how do I tell if it needs replaced or not?

Cn

 

I bought one of these brand new in 1991 when they first came out. In the UK they are known as Yamaha XJ 600 Diversion. XJ600S for faired models XJ 600N for naked models. The S version was supplied with two screen blades one high, one low, with additional plastics. The swing arm suffered from corrosion badly within a year although I was using it all year round. It (the swing arm) needed stripping, cleaning and repainting every year. To check for chain wear pinch the chain between finger and thumb at the rearmost part as it wraps around the rear sprocket, then try to pull it away from the sprocket. A worn chain will pull away, a good chain won't. Also, with the bike on it's main stand, rotate the wheel by hand whilst lifting the chain mid way along the bottom run. It should have the same amount of slack at any point during several rotations. If it has differing amounts of slack it will be stretched. Also hooked, truncated or worn sprocket teeth denote neglect. Good luck.

 

If it's at all rusted, it needs to be replaced regardless of "degree of wear." Once a chain rusts internally, the bearing surfaces of the pins and rollers are compromised and even if the chain isn't obviously worn, it will quickly wear to the point of failure.

On chain driven bikes, I always just assume they will need a new chain and sprockets. For ANY bike I always assume brakes and fork seals. That way any surprises are pleasant ones.

 

well I just returned from my 200 mile round trip drive to look at this bike. unfortunately the pics in the ad make it look way better than it does in person. all the plastics are broken from being dumped. the frame has a big dent in the lower right front. the aftermarket exhaust is beat up from being dumped. the brake hoses are all original. hasn't had a valve adjustment since the guy bought it (all he did was change the oil). the compression was 100psi across the board (pretty sure the rings are gone). the front brakes were grabby, and the off idle response was sketchy. the dates on the tires were 1997. I reluctantly offered him $500 and he said the lowest he would go was $700. I came up to $660 and it wasn't enough. I wasn't willing to go any higher and he wouldn't go any lower, so he still has a bike for sale. thank you to everyone who responded with your wealth of knowledge. without your help, I might have made a big mistake.

CN

 

Good man. I would have stayed firm at $500 or probably just walked away. At that mileage with no valve adjustments, the low compression might not have been rings but then do you want to buy into an immediate valve job?

The bike is probably salvageable; but I would have passed on it too. Too many other solid examples out there for the amount of work that would have been necessary. I noticed the "trimmed" front fender and kind of wondered if it was done to tidy up crash damage.

There's a difference between neglected and abused. That bike was abused.

You made the right decision.

 

thanks, I thought so too. I think I am going to call this guy later today and go have a look at it.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/4249844292.html

I am guessing the carbs will have to come off and the brakes and chain/sprockets will be a necessity but it looks like a much nicer bike.

I may also look at this bike...

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/mcy/4257367960.html

anyone here have any experience or insight about it?

CN

 

The Seca looks like it has potential; but again the miles are kinda high if the valves haven't been touched.

The 550s use a 12mm plug; and again, you will need an extension. Compression specs for the 550 are 100psi min/121 "standard"/135 max; and as always, less than 10% difference between cylinders. A good healthy 550 will make upper 120s to 130. TCI is under the seat in plain view.

As for the CB650, I do not have any personal experience other than working on a couple over the years. It has rocker-arm valve actuation with screw-type adjusters, it does NOT have CV carbs, the original exhaust is a 4-2 and the bike was not known for solid handling. Back in the day it was considered a nice, bland conservative UJM with very little going for it "excitement-wise." The 550 Seca would be considerably quicker and much better handling.

But then again I might be a tad predjudiced since I have two of them.

Both of those bikes will need all the standard stuff to bring them up to safe and reliable.

 

thanks, hopefully this has turned the wife off the Honda. we are going to look at the seca this afternoon. if it passes the compression test and looks good in person, we will pick it up. he said he would accept $5-550. personally I prefer the Yamaha, but the wife likes the Honda more.

CN

 

heh. I was 2 years old in 1968.

CN

 

Too bad this isn't on your side of the country, CN. I'd get it if I had the extra cash and room to store it. One of the nicest I've seen, besides Fitz's 81 of course!
http://lancaster.craigslist.org/mcy/4228104736.html

 

The Honda will be a lot more "two-up friendly" and I didn't mean to imply that it's a bad motorcycle. It's just not an XJ. Let's just say that making a cafe racer out of it was a bit out of character.

The 550 Seca would be a tad cramped for two "full size" people. It's a great solo mount, but unless you're lanky and your passenger is um... petite, it could be a tad crowded. (Luckily, I AM lanky and my occasional passengers are petite enough.)

Here's what the Honda looked like before the mods (image off the web, the luggage rack/backrest is an aftermarket accessory.)

 

well even though I couldn't get the plugs out to do a compression test (what size is the hex on those buggers?), I bought the xj550. it only ran on 2 cylinders and fuel leaks out of the big tube in the bottom of the airbox (looks like len will be getting another parts order soon). the guy wouldn't go below $450 because that was what the tank cleaning and coating cost him.

did I mention this was a Christmas gift for the wife? she is tickled pink!

CN

 

that is a sweet looking seca. I wish the one I just bought was that nice!

CN

 

whew! I just went out and did a cold compression test. the numbers are good.

1)140psi
2)135psi
3)130psi
4)148psi

now I can sleep tonight. while visions of dirty carbs dance in my head.

CN

 

Good job. The high number in #4 could be because it's all wet from fuel.

DO NOT try to run the motor; if fuel is pouring out of the airbox suck pipe then the crankcase is probably full of gas too.

Congrats. Except once you get it running right you'll be looking for another bike for your wife.

 

tomorrow the carbs come off and the oil comes out. while I am sure this will be a fun ride, I am certain it will not ever be as fun as my maxim.

CN