Main Fuel Jet

While I was cleaning the carbs from my 1982 SECA 550 the main jet in the #2 carb would not unscrew. Upon closer inspection it looked like they had not lined up the slot so the whole jet was turning. So far I have not been able to get it out does anyone have any tricks to help. I tried to hold the jet with my finger on the top but that failed. I tried to turn it around while pushing down to get it in th slot but that failed. help

 

You mean like the emulsion tube is spinning in the carb body? I had that with a couple of mine (OK mine are Hitachi & not "keyed" E-tubes, but still)

I used a wooden chisel handle held in the vice, then put it up the upside-down carb's slide bore & held it down firmly, so the top of the Emulsion tube dug into the end of the wood, while unscrewing the jet... That held it 8)

Oh, and welcome to the forums by the way

 

If the emulsion tube is turning it means the locating pin got buggered somehow.

Mikuni exploded: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

 

Thanks for your suggestions, I will try them. I just got this bike and the guy I bought it from said that it had always been hard to start and he was tired of fooling with it. The first I did was try to start and make sure that it had a spark and that fuel was getting to the carbs. Both were good. Next was to take the carbs off and clean them. Except for one they weren't in bad shape except that none of them had a pilot air jet. Someone could have taken it apart to clean and lost them all but that seems crazy. I have ordered 4 new ones from Yamaha. I suppose that this could be the big reason why the bike would not start. The threaded holes were there with no air jet screwed in.

 

Get the valves in spec while you're waiting for your carb parts.

You could also wet-set the float levels, very important: http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf

Carbs don't have to look bad for their tiny internal passages to be clogged.

 

How many miles before you have noticable valve wear. This bike only has less than 1000 miles?

 

First check is due at 3000miles IIRC, then every 5000 after that. Wow that's low miles 8O I'm sure I'm not alone in wanting to see pics of the bike now you've said that 8)

Could be worth checking anyway just in case somebody's been running with the speedo cable out (wouldn't be the first time!) and also VERY worth changing the brakes, rear shoes in particular, before you ride the bike at all. See the links in my signature to get an idea of what happens to the brakes & rubber components over time or with standing...

 

sorry I left off a zero. Should have read 10,000 miles. But the bike is in good shape. Missing the fairing and the right hand side cover. The paint has a few scratches but not many doesn't seem to be any rust except on the manifold which is a 4 into 1. I would like to get it back to stock if I can.