Making fork seals last

Fork seals are a pain to get fixed. The last time I had mine done was over 20 years & 50,000km ago. They still do not leak, here is the reason why.

 

Do you have to take them off and clean underneath regularly?
Just thought it might be something that hides a problem rather than preventing it.

 

I pop mine off at the bottom, and give the tubes a quick wipe now and then, just be sure I'm not hiding a leaky seal or anything.

Believe me, if you ride a lot of miles they do prevent problems. Back in the day, virtually every street bike came with them. But when the fork springs moved inside the tubes, fashion changed and everybody started running about with naked tubes. By the early 1980's they were almost completely gone from street bikes.

Personally, I believe they should have never gone "out of style."

 

Reminds me of the arms of the Robot in Lost in Space - -

WARNING - - DANGER !! :lol:

 

My understanding is that a big contributor to seal failure is dried bugs (and any grit that sticks to that goo) that get driven into the seals. Any dirt or rock dings are also eliminated. As I said these have been on my bike for over 20 years...they only 'hide' clean seals that do not leak....I can lift them up at any time to have a look if I like, but have found there is no reason to do that....

 

Part of my cleaning ritual is the 35mm film trick on the seals. Works very well at getting the grit out of the seal surface so that the seal stays a seal longer.

 

Where would you find a set of those?

 

I got mine at a used bike parts store. They came off a dirt bike. As long as your shock shaft is the same diameter or slightly larger than the bike they came from you are good. Mine just slide wherever I put them and stay in place. The bottom part is not attached, just presses a bit against the top of the fork. Most dust and grit is kept off the shaft and top of the seals. I have never had to clean mine.

 

I used a Kawasaki part number for a bike with the same size fork tubes. They "snap" onto the outside of the lower fork legs; and I used a black zip-tie at the top (which is hidden by the fork trim piece.)

They're widely available; it's just a matter of how "neatly" you want them to fit, and then finding a corresponding size that works on your bike.

 

Do tell?

 

The film thing?

Take a 6" piece of 35mm film, slide it around and down between the seal and tube. Then run it around the tube as you pull the film out.

DO:
Work slowly and methodically
Use a new piece each time you go in

DO NOT:
Push the film straight in
Reuse the film
Run it around the tube without pulling the film out.

All of the above don'ts will result in pushing dirt and grit into the fork seal and fork oil. This is a Bad Thing.

ON OCCASION (notice I said occasion) this trick will also stop a leaky fork seal.

 

When installing new oil & dust seals (go with OEM seals), it's a good idea to use a synthetic hi-temp grease that has a very low level of tackiness like RaceTech's Ultra Slick Seal Grease under the lips of the seal (I use Mobil-1 synthetic). It serves a couple purposes. First, it will reduce stiction throughout the forks travel. Second, it will help keep the rubber lubed thus keeping it from drying out. Talk to a good professional suspension re-builder, they won't leave out this critical step.

 

I have used the 35mm trick to stop a leaky fork seal and it did work BUT not recommended.
I wont do it again leaks get much worse before they improve.

 

I was hoping that someone made fork guards like the Bonnies:

http://www.superbrace.com/proddetail.asp?prod=7001B


http://www.british-customs.com/triumph- ... ctors.html