Master Cylinder Paint

Anybody have recommendations on what paint to use on the master cylinder?

The one on my 900 was already mostly peeled off around the cap, and a lot more came off in the ultrasonic bath. I'd like to just strip it all and start fresh. Eastwood had some paint they claimed was resistant to brake fluid, but it apparently only came in gray, and I think it must be discontinued because I can't find anybody that sells it. There are several "caliper paints" on the market, which claim to be heat and "automotive fluid" resistant. I think one might have even said "fluids like brake fluid", but most don't specifically mention brake fluid.

Anybody had good results when painting theirs? What did you use?

 

2 pack isocyanite, isoacryl by another name, outside in the sun, the fumes are poisonous.

 

Doesn't look like something that can be ordered online. I'm guessing I would probably have to go to a local automotive paint supplier to get it?

 

Motor factor sells me mine, also a paint specialist a few miles away. Don't ignore my health warnings - it can cripple you for life.

 

Gun Kote is about as good as it comes, but it requires special metal prep (it better be zestfully clean) and requires baking, but once done (correctly), it's not coming off:

https://kgcoatings.com

Brownell's sells this product in smaller sizes:

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cle...paint-finishing/gun-kote-oven-cure-gun-finish

but no longer offers it in aerosol cans, which means you need spray equipment. It requires baking in an oven after application to harden.

You'll also need a cleaner, such as TCE (trichloroethylene) or comparable product.

Cerakote is similar to Gunkote, sometimes you can find a local specialty metal finishing shop that offers spraying of cerakote. There is (was) a number of such shops in our area, and all of our replacement cylinder studs were sprayed with this material. It ain't coming off. And it wasn't cheap.........

In either case, all of the products used (cleaner, coating) are extremely noxious and dangerous, so wide-open spaces and excellent ventilation and breathing protection are necessary.

 

Hmm. Seems like by the time I buy the expensive paint, something to spray it with, respirator, etc, etc, it's turns into a pretty expensive job. Leaning towards maybe just a rattle can job and if I spill fluid on it, paint it again.

 

For actual paint products, the Spraymax 2K product works well, but make sure you use all of the 2K components (primer, paint, clear coat) as a unit. You can find these products on eBay, Amazon, etc. Again, adequate ventilation when applying is necessary.

You might try to find someone that does the Gunkote or Cerakote in your area.......I would start my search by contacting a gun shop and ask who applies this product in your area. Typically such places will have quantity of the product in stock for their own use, and can piggyback the m/c components into one of their other jobs at minimal cost.

 

I've been using the Rustoleum "High Heat" "Ceramic" enamel.. Once cured its pretty robust.. Surface prep is, of course, critical. I have used it on a few brake calipers and MCs with no ill affect after a year or more of use. I also used it on a column upgrade for the mill that is constantly exposed to oil and solvents.. so far so good.. Maybe not as good as a pro-grade product with pro-grade paint setup.. works good for me.