Maxim handlebars, different for different model years?

Does anyone know if there is any difference in the handlebar cut for the xj650 between 1980 and 1983? if so, are they quite a bit different or just a tiny bit different? Looking to experiment with some "vibration deadening" concoctions and would prefer to do this on an ebay pair of bars.

thanks all!

 

As far as I know there the same. Both are a basic 7/8 bar, do you know if the ones you have are indeed stock?

 

yes the ones I have are stock, and I didn't think there was any difference but I read on wikipedia that the "82 maxim had a more comfortable cut to its handlebar" (vs '80 and '81 I guess). I just don't know if it's a major difference or not (or if it's even true), I like the cut to the '82 bars I have but it's slim pickins so if there is not much difference I could go with any year bars.

 

The fiche shows different part numbers.

Exactly what's different, I can't say but they are different prefixes altogether so I suspect they are differen somehow.

May the Fiche be with you: http://www.yamahapartshouse.net/pages/O ... ibrand=YAM

(Use the Fiche, Luke...)

 

yeah thank Fitz! they can't be that different I'm just going to go with the best deal - going to fill them up with led bird shot and plaster anyway, I really don't like that 4,750 RPM harmonic vibration. just one fix in a series of things I'm trying. Also got some new Beston-gran turismo style grips - heard those are good too (although at $15 I'm wondering how good they can be?)

 

err...

Re: the "repro" Gran Turismo grips: Not so great; too stiff. You want a set? I've got a set you can have for shipping; I took them off in favor of genuine NOS Gran Turismos, which are much more pliable. Re-reading, it looks like you already have them.

You wanna make that vibration almost nonexistent? Make sure your valves are in spec, your camchain adjusted and then sync that puppy within an inch of its life. Get it solidly sync'ed and that vibratory band will narrow to almost nothing, especially on a bike with that few miles.

Here's a neat product: http://www.barsnake.com/

 

I have an 82 650 sitting in the shop being parted out. It's got a set of bars which appear stock. PM me if you're interested.

 

Fitz where do you get the NOS Gran Turismos - I can't find them. Is a used pair on Ebay the only place to get them? Thanks for the offer on the Beston Repros but I do already have them.

I know, I've been thinking about the whole valve spec, carb clean/bench synch/vacuum synch/color tune thing. I'm a little nervous about doing this though because I've never done it and it really does run so well right now (i.e. if it ain't broke don't fix it). I keep thinking that these vibes are just part of the bike so I have to treat the symptoms (because the engine is always going to generate these harmonics in that RPM range no matter how perfectly tuned it is??)

 

The bike has 6700 miles, and you've never checked the valves?

Are you TRYING to kill the motor?

Initial valve clearance check was to have been done at 3000 miles. Subsequent checks every 5000 miles thereafter.

The initial check was often ignored by the original owner. If your bike has never had its valves checked, ever, you're heading for a disaster in a few more K miles.

My '83 550 now has 8700 miles or so on it since recommissioned; it had 7100 when I got it, untouched. At 7100 miles, ALL 8 valves were tight; two critically so. Now that everything's in spec and it's sync'ed as sync'ed can be, it has almost NO "vibration" range, and what's there is very minor, barely noticeable.

Unless you have irrefutable PROOF that your valve clearances were checked/adjusted at 3000 miles, you're WAYY overdue. You won't cause a problem just checking them; you might just head off a burnt valve.

Don't put it off; by delaying you're taking a big gamble with such a low-mileage motor. Seriously.

I found my Gran Tourismo's on eBay, NOS. They pop up all the time; you have to be sure you buy the correct ones (they come in different "hole sizes" for different bars/bikes.) Don't accidentally buy "scooter grips."

See the "fine print" (I know it's kind of hard to read) toward the bottom of this copy of the instruction sheet; when I get home I'll post up which ones I used on my XJs. (I kept the package headers.)

 

OK OK Fitz. I have most of what I need - I'll start with your tutorial and let you know how out of spec they are. Now I'm going to have to do the full monty with the vacuum synch and color tuning. Hope I don't screw it up because right now it's running great..sigh

 

Now hold on. Re: "the full Monty." Only maybe; with as few miles as you have, and as well as the bike is running, you probably won't have to do a whole lot.

You're going to find an out of spec valve or three; once you put them back in spec, you'll need to check your sync. I'll bet a minor tweak here or there is all that will be needed. Leave the mixtures alone, and ride the bike. Read the plugs. THEN decide if you need to ColorTune. As long as it's not running lean or having any "rideability" issues, you'll quite possibly be done.

You just don't want to ignore the valves. You've got to learn this anyway, it has to be done every 5000 miles. And any time you re-shim a valve, you'll need to check and tweak your sync. Comes with the territory.

 

before you mix up plaster, try shot by itself. you want a cork, a chamber for the shot to rattle around in, and another cork to hold the shot in.
that way the energy is spent bouncing the shot not your hand, making it solid with plaster just changes the harmonic frequency so it might get better but it might get worse, same as bar end weights

 

thanks Polock I think I will try that 1st. Fitz, I'll do the valve check asap, very pretty sure the valves have never been checked so i'll get to it asap and report back. Thanks gents.

 

Just checked mine (XJ550) it wasn't bad at all, except I did have one shim that didn't want to budge. I would suggest using the 'tool' to hold down the bucket (lifter) and having: bright small flashlight, small sharp flathead, and hemostats or something very similar. Oh and the slot likes to move around when the lobe begins to contact the shim so either hold it or set it so when it creeps it goes to where you want it (opposite or close to opposite the tool worked best for me).

I made a chart to keep it all straight.

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0BxLr6l ... 3&hl=en_US

 

Hey Fitz, a thought just occurred to me. Doesn't my camchain have an automatic tension adjuster....do I need to mess with this on my model '82 XJ650J?

 

Your camchain does indeed have an automatic adjuster; there is a little technique for forcing it to do its job though.

I don't have it memorized as all of my XJs have manual tensioners; but it's been posted a number of times.

 

As promised; RE: Granturismo grips:

The stock grips are 21 (L)/26.6mm (R) ID, approximately 125mm long.

I used 21/27mm X 130mm Granturismos on my XJs. (They're really only about 126mm long.) You could probably get away with 22/25-130s, but they're less common, and the left one might be loose unless glued.

One reason they're hard to find is that a lot of people misspell the name, even though they could copy it from the package. As I have it above is correct.

Like I said, be careful. They also come in 25/25, 21/24 and 18/22 which would be useless.

I sent you a PM.