May have screws up my fork rebuild before my parts even get here...

So I ordered a fork rebuild kit from Len and thought I'd get started pulling them apart while I wait for my parts to get here. I got them off the bike just fine but now I'm to the point where I start working on the actual forks.

And in the service manual it says there should be a snapring or something under the plastic cap. But when I took mine off they look like this and I have no idea what to do. I let the tops soak in PB Blaster overnight to see if something would loosen up but I still can't tell.


The thing that I screwed up is trying to get the damper bolts out. One of them broke loose and turns but never comes out. Almost like I broke off the head or something. And the other one just stripped completely. So does this mean I need to find new forks?

 

maybe the first thing would be put some vinegar in there to get rid of some of that rust. let it set for a day or two , change it a few times, then go for oil. That plug on the top is halfway covering the snap ring you want to get out. the plug will/should push down to give access but yours is really rusty and might take some force to move. Then it's going to be stuck in there by the rust. there's been a few ways to get it out, i say drill it, tap the hole and put a bolt in it then rig up some kind of slide hammer.
don't worry about the bottom till you get the top out.

 

Agree witn Polock. No problem on the bottom end that $2 worth of new bolts won't take care of.

You're going to have lots of fun with those circlips. To add to Polock's description: Those caps have a tiny shelf cut into the top for the circlip, it holds the clip from climbing out of the tube. They need to be pushed down just a bit to dig the circlip out. Don't drive them down more than a couple mm, the bore in the tube gets narrower and you can stick them tight. He's right that your biggest problem is that rust and you should dissolve it with some mild acid.

I wouldn't re-use those circlips. They're going to be in bad shape.

 

Polocks method would work perfectly for taking out the cap if it is stuck with rust after removing the circlip (hook and pick set is your best friend for that I found) BUT if the cap won't push out the top of the tube due to rust, try putting an old socket or better yet a 2 inch long piece of dowel on the top cap and lightly tapping away with a hammer, the spring lightly compressing and pressing the top cap upwards broke through the rust on mine. Try this before drilling and tapping a thread in the cap, might save you spme effort, might have to though tap it though, polock knows whats up.

As far as the damper bolts, do a bit of research on here and you'll find info about holding the damper rod to get those bolts out. That's after you remove the top caps however

 

Small update. I got one of the circlips out. The plug itself is still very stuck though. The other one I hammered down to where I can see the circlip, but it refuses to go any further. The only change in that one is now when I hammer it (using a socket) it squirts oil up on my hand and the socket. I have both again soaking in PB blaster to see if they will loosen up more.

 

Don't be afraid to add a little heat (note that I said a little; don't go making it change colors). You'll be replacing the o-rings anyway.

Once you get the circlip out you can set the fork leg on its side on the garage floor, on top of a plastic sheet. Set one end against a scissor jack that is set against a wall stud, and the other end against the tire of your car. Extending the jack allows you to gain both mechanical, and hydraulic advantage to pop the fork caps loose. This will be messy.....very messy, but it works.

 

Another update. No luck applying heat. But at least I have a propane torch to play with now. I found a local shop that works pretty cheap, may take the forks to them with my parts kit once I get it. I'm to the point I just want to ride the damn thing.

 

is that a 550 seca you are working on? you may need new fork tubes because of the rust. if so, hit me up with a private conversation, and I will hook you up with a set of brand new fork tubes.

FU

 

Thanks FU but it is unfortunately a 650 and I think they are different.

 

yes they are. the 550 seca has a 35mm diameter tube where the 650 has a 36mm diameter tube. if you find yourself needing new tubes, franks forks has what you need.

FU