middle gear drain plug

So I was changing the oil on my 82 Maxim 650, and while tightening the middle gear drain plug, the plug broke right at the point it starts to screw in, so now I have the top of the plug and the rest of it is stuck in the threads in the engine....soooo, anyone have any ideas of how I might be able to get the part thats stuck in the threads out? I tried using a magnetic screwdriver, but that didn't work. I also tried taking the oil pan off to see if I could reach in there and push it out from inside, but it can't be reached. And what size is the plug anyway, because obviously I'll be needing to get a new one. I know the main oil drain plug is 14 mm 1.5 but this one is much smaller. Thanks for any help!

John

 

Is there some bold left sticking out? If so use a bolt extractor.

I you drill it (reverse drill bit so it loosens instead of tightens) and then use a screw type extractor it should come out easily (as there shouldn't be any resistance from load).

My friend did the same thing last year - it wasn't a big deal.

 

Sears and Snap-On both sell drill bits as woot mentioned. The ones I've seen were a combination reverse-direction drill bit and screw extractor.

Sears version
If you can find a Snap-On truck you might be able to buy just the one you need.

Drain the oil, pull the battery, empty the master cylinder, and gently lay your bike on its' side so you can get comfy.

 

Right about now ... I'll bet you are thinking ... for the amount of oil that came out of there ... was pulling that plug ... doing a routine oil change ... worth all the fuss and trouble.

Huh???

It's not ... The Middle Gear area stays pretty darn clean if you do oil changes at 2,500 - 3,000 mile increments.

No matter how you cut it ... getting-on the bolt is "Awkward" at best!
The resultant mess and clean-up time far outweigh fooling around with it.

~~> Here is my personal opinion about draining the middle gear for a routine oil change. <~~

Don't! Leave it alone. Don't go looking for a nightmare scenario. Only take it out ... when it NEEDS to come out ... when you drain a whole engine just before you prepare it for shipment or start the process of overhauling it and will soon be splitting the cases.

Then, your Oil Change is done.

And the little bit of oil you went after ... that made the mess, and ... now has you pulling the exhaust system off ... tooling-up to do some drilling-out ... and who knows what else you'll be doing ... short of pulling-out your hair and teaching the neighborhood kid's a few new words ... could have been avoided and the story ended with ... "Lived happily ever-after."

 

I'm going to side with changing it. While it is true I ran my engine 80K+ without doing the middle drive plug, the engine was clean as a whistle (let's hear it for Golden Spectro!) and the compression was awsome (had to split the case when the starter chain tensioner fell apart in my tranny). However, err to the side of caution and do it anyway, you've got that much dirty oil out of the sump and can run a little cleaner. Be sure to pop a copper washer behind the bolt, it will seal up the hole and keep the bolt from seizing up again. And don't over-tighten it, this will screw up the case (or the bolt, depending upon which is more of a pain in the patookus to fix).

 

It's not in ... The Bible.

The Factory Manual has a Play-by-Play for doing an Oil Change.

"The Book" is procedure specific ... Even recommends taking-off a head pipe to make doing the Filter swap easier.

Shows pictures "How to" ... "Where is" ... and has Reference Boxes with Capacities for with / without filter ...
Shows correct O-ring placement.
Oil Filter Bolt Torque.
Engine Drain Plug Torque.
Right down to checking the oil level again after the engine's been run for a bit.

The is not one reference to ... nor is Middle Gear mentioned anywhere for an Oil and Filter change. This in the -- Jenn-you-whine Factory Manual.

I'm adding that information to my "Words of Wisdom Section", though ...
Some noises are good. (Ticking exhaust valves)
Rich is Good. (Mixtures and Finance)
Lean is Bad. (Unless you are a Model or a steak)
Don't break an Intake Manifold Cap Screw. (A-men on that!)
Don't touch the Middle Gear Drain Plug for a routine oil change. (Unless you are really crazy, have no plans for the next few days and need unnecessary complications to your life you might very easily have avoided.)

 

Thanks guys for the suggestions! My dad suggested using somethink like what Woot recommened, I can't believe I didn't think of that right away! I am concerned though with how easy/hard it will be to get to that spot under the bike to do this, so I may have to try laying the bike on it's side if thats safe. Unfortunately, I won't be able to get to it until next week, but it's supposed to be cold and snowing around here the next few days anyway, so at least I won't be missing any riding time!
Oh, and next time I do an oil change, I will NOT be touching the middle gear plug.

John

 

I'm looking right at the spec in my Haynes, outlined in detail. It insist it should be done. I also recall seeing it in my owners manual (I was lucky enough to get it with the bike, rare occurance). In application, as no doubt you have experienced yourself Rick, it is not necessarily needed and as you pointed out, may complicate an otherwise straightforward procedure. Jam4279, let your conscience be your guide.

 

If you have two car ramps put the bike up on them ( that'll give you another foot or so of clearance). If you go that route make sure as hell you secure the bike really well - I have in the past suspended mine from the rafters with block and tackle. Then you know it can't fall.

Just be very very careful if you do this - ok?