My Forward Controls DIY - Thanks To All For Your Patience!

It took a while for me to get to this, but here is the writeup and drawing for those who have requested that I do this. If the instruction need more detail or more pictures, let me know.

Forward Control DIY:

These are the steps I took to make these forward controls for my chopper. If you can do all of the work yourself, the cost is peanuts…but I didn’t have all the tools needed, so the actual cutting and drilling on the plates was done by a machine shop. Hopefully you’ll enjoy these as much as I enjoy mine. I used all steel parts for rigid construction as I didn’t want anything to flex or bend while riding.

Step 1 – To get the drawing, you’ll need to pm me as the size restriction on the site might cause the tracing size to be way off. Once you have the file, print the drawing out on 8.5 X 11 paper with all 4 margins set to zero. This way you can simply trace the outline and it will be identical to mine. The shape of the plates can be changed to whatever you want to have.

Step 2 – Get ¼” plate steel and have the shape cut out and the holes drilled to the sizes indicated on the drawing. The 3 holes at the one end are the exact sizes and locations of the existing engine mount bracket. You’ll need 2 of these plates…as if I have to tell you that!

Step 3 – Get some ¾” steel pipe and cut 4 spacers, each 3 1/2” long. You’ll also need 2 more cut to 3 ¾”, these are for the rear mounting holes as there is a small difference in mounting dimensions to the engine. You’ll also need 4 six inch bolts as the front mounting length has been increased with those spacers. The rear mounting hole will require a new 3/8” threaded rod, 18” long, and you can shorten the rod once you’ve determined how much is left on each side once it’s bolted to the engine. All the spacers and bolts can be made longer if you want your feet to stick out further than where mine do. My legs are close to the engine, but my chaps keep me from feeling any heat. Same with the length of the plates…if you want more leg extension, lengthen the plates. I stand 5 feet 8 ½ inches tall.

Step 4 – The 2 front holes are for your pedals and floorboard. The larger top hole is designed for most assemblies to fit through, but CAUTION: Measure your controls so you get the right size hole the first time. As well, you’ll need to weld a bushing to the inside of both plates to give your controls the rigidity they’ll need when you use them. This is the hardest part because the bushing needs to be snug enough for the pedal shaft to fit through, but without any slack which could affect the control operation. I took my levers with me to as few automotive stores and tried bushings of all sizes until I found the proper ones…always buy a spare, in case you ruin one trying to get it welded in place. (I’m not an expert welder)

Step 5 – Once you’ve got your plates, bushings welded, and spacers, mount them on your bike as the next step is to figure out the control setup as well as the linkage. If your controls have the long arm where the linkage will connect to, place the control where that arm just forward of 90 degrees straight down. Then fasten the pedal to the pedal shaft at whatever angle of comfort is good for you when you’re seated on your ride. This is assuming you have already mounted your floorboard to the lower front hole. My floorboards are actually mini-boards bought off eBay for under $40US.

Step 6 – The linkage is the final step and this is a custom measurement based on the distance between the lever arm and the actual brake shaft or shift shaft location. I used ¼” stainless steel rod and threaded the ends. I had tried other chromed rods from a local bike shop but found they would bend under pressure. I cut both original levers so I wasn’t having to worry about shaft measurements. I then drilled holes in the lever shafts where the linkage rod would fasten to with the small bushing and bolt. As it is a requirement here in Nova Scotia for the safety inspection, I had to drill tiny holes in each bolt for a safety cotter pin to insert after they were the linkage was assembled. This would prevent the nuts from falling off due to vibration etc.

Step 7 – After I was happy with the results, I painted the spacers and plates just to have it blend in a bit. If you have any questions, I can amplify any of the details you need or get pictures of any step you would like to see. Have patience and you’ll be rewarded by a more comfortable ride plus the satisfaction of having done it yourself.

 

Re: My Forward Controls DIY - Thanks To All For Your Patienc

hi could i please get a pic of how these actually look on the bike from a bit of a distance just so i can get a better idea cheers

 

Wow! Thanks for the write-up, Phil! I really appreciate all the trouble you went to. J

 

Re: My Forward Controls DIY - Thanks To All For Your Patienc

NZXJ750RIDER

Here's some pics from my album page showing how the controls look on the bike. Hope it helps.

 

nice writeup, nice bike!

 

I can see myself using some of this knowledge in the very near future. THANKS!

 

Re: My Forward Controls DIY - Thanks To All For Your Patienc

very nice bike. were did you get the floor boards and brake and shifter from?

 

The mini floor boards were bought off eBay, and the shifter/brake parts were from used Harley stock at a local custom bike shop here in town.

 

Freakin' incredible. Great job!

 

nice work bike looks great
Shaun

 

Looks great man. I think you should make up a couple of sets and try to sell them on ebay.
Just a thought.... I had a problem with my rear break on my forward controls. The bar from the controls to the rear break would bend. Mine was threaded rod though, and I just put a piece of tubing over it. Yours looks mighty thin too. Just thought I would mention it.

 

The original rod I had there bent right away but the 1/4" steel rod I've got there now (In the pic) has been solid. I was going to install a cable system if this rod had bent...so far, so good.

 

Re: My Forward Controls DIY - Thanks To All For Your Patienc

For those who have requested closeups of the mini-board mounting, here are some pics that give you an idea of how mine bolts to the plate.

 

I'm more impressed by the all the shine on the engine parts, very nice job. They shine so much I can see myself from here.

 

very nice

 

Beauty-ful.

 

Re: My Forward Controls DIY - Thanks To All For Your Patienc

Thanks Johno8! I stumbled across your pics in the galery and saved them cause I've been looking for a set of these that extend in front of the pipes. Then I happened across this thread.I'm 6' tall and a little leg cramped. You did a great job on the write up and I'll be using some of your expierience when I get around to modifying mine!

 

Sounds like my job is over and I can safely put the right side control setup back on the bike...I had it off to take pictures. I just finished the complete rewiring project tonight and because of all the modifications I made to it, I needed to redraw the wiring diagram as well...what a job. Was going to chrome some more parts but decided not to as I like the contrast on the bike as it is. Good luck with your forward controls...you'll love them.

 

You been really good about this. I was wondering about the rod bending.

 

I've had no problems with rod bending, but if it's a concern, what I would suggest is taking some larger dimension rod, then grind down the ends and thread them to fit into your fasteners. Example...if your connectors are 1/4" and you're using 3/8" rod, grind down the last 1/2" of each end to be able to thread them to fit into your 1/4" connectors. Does this answer your question?