Neutral switch always on

In one of my previous posts, I mentioned the bike stalls when in gear. Turns out it was the side stand switch. Jumpered it and all was fine. Well, last night I fixed the side stand (broken wire in the sheathing) and installed it back on the bike.

NOW, when I put it in gear, the neutral switch light stays on. Doesn't matter what gear the bike is in. These little electrical gremlins are killing me!

Anybody got any ideas? The bike is a 1982 XJ650RJ (Seca)
Thanks.

 

I have all my motor in pieces at the moment and i no recall where the switch is , looked in the kitchen looked in the bedroom but i no find it yet, anyways find the neutral switch and wires you maybe have disloged the plug as you were nearby fixing the side stand drama ....

 

If the plug were dislodged, wouldn't the neutral light never come on?

 

I do not have a wiring diagram here yet , some switches switch to earth to turn on or to turn off and visa versa depending how its set up , i'll go and see if i can find out how it works , it seemed a coincidence to me that after fixing the s/stand wire that ta other came on

 

What if the wires are damaged and are touching across - simulating a neutral position?

Sure it's unlikely - but I think the switch behaves in the way the sidestand switch works; the wires have to touch to complete the circuit...

 

Yes i agree to , i just looked at a downloaded schematic , for xj750 and the neutral switch does switch to earth to makey de light come on , i notice a diode [a one way device] in there connected to the side stand switch in the circuit via and in conjuction with a side stand relay..

so first , the neutral light to come on it has to be earthed , so looky in that area first , = a short some where....

 

I see, if the wire leading to the neutral switch is touching the frame etc. then it will gound out and turn the indicator light on. Great, thanks for the help.

I did have a look at the schematic and I think the diode you see (rectangular shape with arrow inside) is representing the quick connect for that wire. I don't recall see a diode in the circuit when I had the switch off last but I'll find out for sure tonight.

Again, thanks for the help.

 

i resized a schematic...

no 41 is neutral switch , no 45 is side stand switch no 46 is side stand relay and no 58 is neutral light , blue wire from neutral switch has to be earthed to make light come on.

excuse the quality of the pics as in the process of making smaller to post the quality drops....

the origs are floating about here at the forums somewhere ..

 

No 37 is a diode , it could be anywhere , inside relay , in instument unit ? i don't know i have not had the motorcycle long enough yet {2 weeks} , anyways good hunting.....

 

Thanks. I'll check it out and keep you posted.

 

On my virago 1100 I had this problem ... The neutral switch in on the left back part of the case and was getting ground due to a partial frayed wire connector.
The part that actually was called a diode was in reality a bling plug end made of a square block of rubber encased in a rubber cover ... with all the wires dead ending in it. My virago's was that anyway ... and one fine day rolling down the road the rubber cover slipped out, and the square rubber thingy made contact with the frame and got ground ... and caused my starter to run, and oil light to come on, and neutral light and fuel light ... all were on when the bike was rolling down the highway at 80 clicks.
Luckily, the starter clutch kept the starter from turning 4500 rpm with the motor, and miraculously it itself escaped un scathed. Oh yea I lost the coils on the starter but bought a old one at a wrecker and put my nose on it and starter clutch - bendix on it.
The only other casualty was the nose of the starter which galled up the case hole and destroyed both of them. I dropped an oil light bushing in the case, routed oil holes to it and machined my starter nose to fit in it just right and zip tied the diode sheite and the cover. Trouble shooting it was a biatch ... cos it would run with the key in off. :evil: ... Hope this helps.
So Zip tie your diode cap on tight ...
Cool.
Srinath.

 

Well, checked the switch out and turns out that the wire leading to the neutral switch had the insulation split right at the switch. It would wiggle and ground out on the oil pan.

Covered it in some shrink wrap and all is good!

Thanks for all the help.

Rob

 

The diode that HooNz is talking about, labeled # 37 is only on the XJ750J model from what I can see on the diagrams shown in my Haynes manual.