New handlebars?

Hey all, I just picked this bike up today and the PO put straight bard on it. None of the instruments, handles, etc..look right on it. I was wondering if I bought some new bars, preferably bars that are raised some, what would be the right length and how high could I go without running out of cable length?

Thanks for any help!

 

I guess it all depends on what bars you decide to go with, really. The stock cables had alot of spare on them, so I think you'll be fine with what you decide to use, outside of getting ape-hangers.

 

The main issue here is the original master cylinder has been moved onto the straight bars.

This is actually kind of dangerous. With the reservoir at that angle it's possible it will suck air on a turn. If you don't plan on going back to the stock bars then you need to replace the master cylinder.

Whatever bars you decide on you can get cables that will work from other xj models or worst case custom ones from motion pro.

R./

 

Or, an aftermarket MC with a remote reservoir? When I switched to a ProTaper 7/8" bar, I just used a '96 Yamaha FZR600 reservoir/lever I had lying around.

 

Yeah anything that works and keeps the res horizontal. There's a reason why Yamaha angled that res so it was flat on the curved bars.

I prefer a separate res AM setup myself but there are plenty of Yamaha ones out there that'll work.

 

think about that a minute, times up. In a turn are you being pushed to the outside of the turn or pressed down into the seat? Same with brake fluid?
http://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/Balance/BALANCE.htm

 

I didn't say it would happen on every turn. I said it's possible and it is especially on a tight slow turn.

Your theory is correct however only with certain parameters of physics. The centripetal force on fluid has to be greater than the force or gravity factoring in liquid viscosity. In other words is the force generated to the center of a turn greater than the force of gravity.

The tilted res on a straight bar puts the brake line connection very close to top of the fluid. A sharp low speed turn will drop the top of the fluid below the piston ingress hole. Maybe the kind of turn that you need to make in an emergency when you then will likely need the brake also.

 

Just make sure that the bore size is the same, or you will have issues with being able to stop.

 

Well as you can tell in the pick, the PO put the reservoir on and its angled. I would like to go back with something like the stock bars just slightly higher...

Any good websites out there to order bars and does anyone know the stock dimensions?

 

Shouldn't be too hard to get a longer brake line.. any place that builds hydrolic hoses can make you one if you bring the fittings you'll need. Not really all that expensive to get built either. I will say, the angled master has got to go.. I did the same thing on my bike.. then after some enthusiastic riding theres brakes.. then there's less brakes.. then omg I'm glad i have a rear brake.. brakes...

 

I wouldn't be surprised if the brake line is original and wrapped around the headlight... seems like a lot of effort to replace the line - bleed it etc - only to put the original MC back on, but then I've seen worse.

Check out www.motionpro.com for custom cables, or there are many you can buy at the right length give or take.

Dime city have a very good selection of brake lines that are pre-made at various lengths from 6"-60" - I got the shadow one here and I've been very happy with it.

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/motorcycle-parts/motorcycle-brakes/motorcycle-brake-lines.html

Just get the bars sorted first and then do your measurement taking into account steering and relaxed angles.