New Member XJ750RJ Seca - With Questions and Pics

Second post has questions, first post is intro. For those using Internet Explorer, I apologize that you have to keep scrolling around to read.

Howdy, Ive been poking around on the forums for a while and figured I'd become a member since I do own an 82 Seca. Im having some problems, and figured this would be a good place to start. I got this bike for 250 bucks cause the starter clutch went out, and it is between the cases (as Im sure you already know), and the previous owner didnt want to deal with it anymore. I got the bike in a bunch of peices and am having trouble getting it back together as should be. Heres what I got so far. I believe pictures speak a lot of binary

Replaced springs, caps, and rollers in starter clutch (Even though the old ones seemed fine).



I stripped a bolt in the sump area, so I had to re tap it. Live and learn...



Isnt she pretty



Pulled the front forks and redid seals, which seemed overly complicated for a bike of its time. What happened to anti-dive nowadays?



This as she sits now, in the garage

 

Heres the questions. I cant find any info on the rear shocks, and they are sagging terribly. I called S&W and they deny every making these. Im pretty sure they are air shocks, but the hose that leads out of the top of the shock goes no where.



Whats the trick on installing the clutch cover correctly? I can get it on, but once its on, the clutch doesnt want to move. Am I supposed to preload the shaft before putting it on? And what else goes in that engine cover that goes on the end of the crank? It has a threaded hole, but I dont see anything else that goes on there.



Right now, I only have 4 wires without a home. Got 2 females up top and 2 males down below. One is a Black with Red stripe that should go together, and the other female is light green, while the other male is dark blue. I figured dark blue was the Neutral switch, but cant seem to find its home.



Thanks! Sorry bout the Nub questions.

 

Is this a test? You rebuild the starter clutch and front forks but do not know that these are the wrong shocks?

If you do not already have a factory repair manual (and how could you not with the work already done?), order the XJ CD set which will have all the info you could ever need. Go to the classifieds of this forum.

Get a correct pair of shocks - several on ebay right now, probably also available in the classifieds of this site. Originals were 12.5" eye-to-eye and had the coil spring over the damper (2-way adjustible).

The clutch re-install procedure is in the manual; not much different than most bikes.

Parts breakdown is on the CD set or available on-line; the end of the crank is threaded but nothing in it.

The black/red wire should be for the oil level sensor in the block that goes to the gauges; the light green might be for the fuel level sensor in the tank that goes to the gauges; the blue is for the neutral circuit that runs several places (again, wiring diagram is in the manual).

 

Thanks for the reply, although it could have done without the smart remarks.

I have bits and pieces of the manual, and apparently Im missing the right parts cause I dont remember seeing a wiring diagram. I'll look into the CD one.

The previous owner said he liked these shocks better than the stockers, which is probably why he put them on. They are supposed to be adjustable like the front ones, but the air hoses do not have a manifold for intake or outlet. I was asking if anyone had any info on these, since one XJ owner already did. If all I need is to put a shrader valve on there, then I will, but I dont really think going back to stock is necessary, since these were considered upgrades by the PO. But I'll ask if he still has the old ones laying around.

I have 5 bikes in my shed right now, and this one is probably the least valuable, so its just gonna be the one I let my buddies ride when we go cruisin. And the one I teach my girl how to ride on

 

I had air shocks on my last bike, they were OK but if you want to carry a pillion you'll have to put more air in them, I found them to be a bit annoying for that reason. Whenever you change th weight you are carrying you have to find air or carry a good hand pump.
I reckon changing th preload on springs is easier. But as you've got em and they look to be near new you'll need to join up the lines to one valve, I spose any place that carries them for cars would have th pieces to do it. Th stock ones would have to be stuffed by now.
Th clutch..maybe th actuating arm is not in th right position??

 

S&W were the "Progressive Suspension" of the time. I put S&W's on both my SR500s back in the day, they were a major improvement over the stock KYB's. Those S&Ws are probably NOT worn out you could probably repair the air system if it suits your fancy. Personally, I see no real value in air shocks on a "standard" or sprt bike; I'd pitch 'em and get set of Progressives.

Leave the actuating lever off when you refit the clutch cover. Rotate the throwout shaft clockwise until it stops (the pull rod is now pulled against the inside of the pressure plate.) Refit the lever in the recommended "home" position (line up the marks) or one spline "back" for a tad more throw.

Anti-dive went away in favor of front forks that don't need it.

 

Going back and looking through your original post, I have a concern though:

When you reassembled the motor, did you have enough "bits and pieces" of a manual to know about the need for a specific type of sealant (Yamabond #4 or equivalent) at critical points in the motor (bearing towers) and where NOT to put it? I would hate to see you spin a main bearing the first time you hit redline...

 

Im still checking into how to make the air shocks work. If stockers arent too expensive, Ill look into them.

I have chapters 1-4 I think of the manual, so I used it meticulously for the torq specs and assembly procedure. It said not to have the yamabond closer than 2mm to the bearings, which I did. Even busted out some calipers to make sure. I couldnt find the balancing marks on the shaft mating points. The manual said its not too important, but I hate any vibes while on the road.

It should be healthy, and now Im waiting on crush gaskets to put the header on and see if she runs. Thank you for the help so far.

 

Well shoot. I got it all back together, and other than the blue Neutral switch wire, and the white and red stripe main switch wire, all the electrical problems figured out. It will try to turn over, but after about two cranks, it just whurrs like a car would when the sylenoid isnt shooting the starter gear into the flywheel. I think that is why the PO got rid of it, and I did rebuild the starter clutch, so Im kinda at a loss. Any ideas?

On the upside, I did find a 1/8th inch compression union Tee with a shrader valve to make the air shocks usable. They work great, and make a good stiffness or softness. I'll get one of those micro compressors and put it under the seat to change settings on the fly.

 

Any ideas on the starter? Since its all together, I was just gonna put it in 3rd and pop it to start it, but thats just a temporary solution.

 

Did you replace the Primary Chain Guide?

For Identifying Wires:

http://www.rjtool.com/p-1354-circuit-so ... an-72.aspx

For Everything else:

http://www.yamahapubs.com/index.do

 

Unless the previous owner did, then no, cause I did not replace the primary chain guide. Would that be relevant to the issue Im having?

 

Well, I have just kept trying to start it, and its "catching" more and more. Maybe the mating surface of the rollers and the gear just needed some time in action.

It still free spins 2 out of 3 tries, but the third one starts the engine up and I dont have to keep trying after that, obviously. Any pointers?