New Project 82 Maxim 650 Build Thread

Picked up an 82 Maxim for $200 last weekend. New to Yamaha so I'm sure I'll have some questions. Has broken exhaust stud and carbs are gummed up bad, sat for 4 years. I've owned a couple 4 cyl Kaw's (Z and KZ) so not new to the concept. Will be yanking the motor for cleanup, stud fix, valve shim check, carb rebuild, etc. After that a sync and colortune. Goal is to make a good rider out of it. I DD a KZ750 now.

Couple questions:

Intake boots - I usually stick to OEM on these but they cost more than the bike! Anyone use the $95 new aftermarket set on ebay?

Carb kits - Any good source for complete kits?

Thanks!

 

Welcome to the club. Looks like it's a complete bike. Click the "everything xj" banner in the top right corner. Have you tried to manually turn the engine? If it turns you might want to do a quick compression test prior to pulling the mill.

Gary H.

 

carb kits check out the logo in the top right corner, ace guy.
Are the boots shot, or could they be repaired, (bicycle inner tube & RTV ) ?

 

Thanks for the link. The bike is 99% complete, not missing anything but the manual and a battery. Will keep it that way, no intentions to bob etc. Tank is clean, seat was recovered.

Not sure the compression test would be worth it before checking the shims. Plan to test after checking that. My 750 had a shim way out that was holding a valve slightly open which threw the numbers off. Previous owner put 15k on it with little maintenance. It did start and kind of idle, but was pouring gas out underneath.

The boots are wrapped in electrical tape and covered with Permatex, I'm assuming they're done. For the hassle of changing them later, would like to do with the carb rebuild and be done.

 

You can change the shims in situ.

Gary H.

 

as much as I like chacal and as much as he has been there for me, (and the rest of us) we both know that it is a matter of economics. I simply cannot afford to spend the money on some things when I can get similar parts for less somewhere else. I am sure that the ebay intake boots will more than suffice for your needs. that being said, I just disposed of a huge pile of little parts baggies from len, sometimes you just won't find what you are looking for anywhere else. welcome to the forum.

CN

 

Be careful about E-Bay descriptions, I think that the intake manifolds for the Maxim are sorta specific and don't fit the other XJ models. They are definitely not universal fit. There are also 4 gaskets required for the intake manifolds. You will probably need new manifold studs as well as the ones on the bike are as soft as cold butter and usually break off. You managed to get a very nice bike very cheap, it might be well worth the investment, time, lack of frustration to order what you need for XJ4Ever and be done with it. Also, make sure you use anti-seize when reinstalling the intake manifold studs.

 

Made some good progress today. Took about 3 weeks of vacation in December (use it or loose it). Keep in mind I have three small kids, house projects, and family to visit for XMAS, I don't get ALL that time in the garage . Planned on just getting the carbs off and actually got the motor ready to pull. This is my first shafty pull, not too bad. I'm not in my 20's anymore and not attempting to lift that beast myself. Carbs are nasty, the gas in them was mountain dew yellow.

Did a compression test and all are 150 - 152 so that's good. Exhaust is pretty solid. Overall I'm really happy with the shape of the bike. Front shocks need seals, will replace all the brakes and lines. Some new handlebars are in order too. The seat was recovered a few years ago, so will be keeping that.

Cyclenoob, I hear ya on the parts stuff. I figure I'd spend around $1500 for a decent reliable bike, so I plan to put about $1k into this one. Not a ton when you figure tires, brakes, all the little odds ends. Was thinking the ebay intakes would be nice if tried and true, but hard to argue with an OEM part that already lasted 30 years. My wife will take solo rides and I suspect she'll want to ride this next year. I got her a well maintained low mileage Rebel last year after she got interested in riding and took the MSF class, but she outgrew that bike real quick.

Some more pics for ya! Gotta love the fuse replacement job from a PO.

 

The bad news is that both exhaust studs are broken on cylinder 2. They're below the surface so not going to be fun, maybe a machine shop deal. PO had a spring holding the pipe in place.

 

Yup, but the busted exhaust studs are gonna be way easier off the bike. Gives me a chance to clean the frame up a bit.

 

you could dissolve the broken studs out using alum...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=73735.0

I would drill out the centers and position the engine so the studs are vertical, then pour the heated solution into the holes. then further heat the head with a torch to keep the alum working. ad more solution as it evaporates.

CN

 

I was saying you could get the valve clearance in spec in situ so you could do the compression test before you pulled the mill. You've done it, it's good. I'll stfu now.

Gary H.

 

No need to do that Yam's all new to me, so I'll take any advice. The motor was coming out either way so figured I'd check the shims while on the bench and not cramped and bent over the bike.

 

Interesting, never heard of that. Might be worth a shot. Will be a week or so til I get back to it tough. Motors out and on the bench so here we go!

 

Cool. With your experience and a bit of help from this site you'll have her up and running in good form. You've got this.

Gary H.

 

There's also this guy, assuming it'll move at all...

 

If you have more than a couple of either the intake or exhaust studs broken off, I would recommend for sanity reasons to take the motor to a machine shop and let them remove them. What is the cost of your sanity, how much would you pay to keep it? If you provide them with the replacement studs, make sure they use an anti-seize compound on the threads. I might even make sure they have a tube of it with the replacement studs.

 

I've decided the next time I buy a new car/bike/anything, I'm going to disassemble as much as I can (as far as stuff that's exposed to the elements and is often serviced), apply anti-seize compound to it, and put it back together. I spent an hour with a sledge hammer and a wrench trying to get the calipers off my wife's Subaru, and it's only 4 years old. Cleveland weather.

 

yep, anti seize is worth its weight in gold lol.

 

I read something many years ago about that. There was a school of thought that every fastener should either have Loc-Tite or anti-seize on it.

 

I grew up in Michigan and now live in Ohio, I buy the big bottle with the brush in the cap. The mechanics down at the Marina call it Ever Seize though, guess it speeds up corrosion when used on the mounting studs for the drive unit.

Hopefully going to look at the studs this weekend, once that is successfully taken care of I will order some carb kits, intakes, and boots. Hopefully I can get them out without pulling the head and hitting the machine shop.

 

+1. BW, i'd check the specs on those caliper bolts. Vibration.

Gary H.

 

Need to order some handlebars for this bike. I don't care for the original style and they're bent. I assume just about any 7/8" bar without the wiring dimples will work?

Not much other progress to report, exhaust studs are out but there are some broken intake bolts that were hidden under the RTV patch job in an attempt to keep it sealed by a PO. I hate busted studs.

 

Progress update. Frame is back from powder coating (frame, swingarm, center stand, and kickstand). Got some new shoes too.

Is it easier to put the engine in and then the swing arm? What else should go on before the engine? Airbox I do have a note on.

 

Looks nice! Man, I have to do that to my frame someday.

 

Looks nice! Brings back memories.

Personally, I put the engine on first, but that was because I went with the lay-the-engine-on-its-side-and-lay-the-frame-around-it method. Overall, I'd say it depends on what equipment you have to support the bike once it gets heavy and how many friends you have around to help you lift or hold things.

 

Yup, I plan on the same method. I just recall there being some things that have to go on first before the engine like the airbox. Seems like it will be easier to put the swingarm on after.

 

Been awhile since I updated this, not a ton of progress but the motor is back together, painted, and in the frame. The tins are back from paint and against my better judgment, I fitted them to see how it would look. Polishing aluminum late at night is oddly therapeutic!

Starting to get cold out and need to get the wife's car in the garage, so work will probably slow on this. I'm not putting a deadline on this, no reason to rush.

 

That looks awesome!

 

nice.. if you sand of the chrome on the pieces that go on the air box
and then paint them too it looks nice
beautiful build.. I saw the starting picture and was like wow that is a nice bike
and it looks even better now
keep up the great work

 

That is a TV-show quality build. Wow.

I thought the same thing about the original pictures. It was a nice looking bike before.

 

+1.

Gary H.

 

Thanks guys, been a lot of work so far. Appreciate the comments!

The first picture is a little deceiving, it looks shiny. The frame was rusty everywhere and the tank had many dent and scratches that had rusted up. It didn't run, had many busted intake and exhaust bolts/studs. Everything was covered in oil etc. Was basically ridden with little maintenance until it wouldn't run anymore.

More to come!

 

The cavity where the swingarm bearings are should have a hole on the bottom to let any water out, make sure it's clear.
You'll also see the open end of the lower frame tube, shoot some oil in it to stop internal rust.

 

love the green and the motor looks great.