New Rear Brakes: Not just for delamination anymore!

Well, the posts on this site started to scare me enough that I installed a new set of rear brakes on the bike. It's almost assured they were the original 26 year old brakes with 17K miles on them (I've owned the bike for close to 20 of those years) . Aside from the possible delamination issue, they just didn't seem to be providing the stopping power they "should". The short story is that although there was no evidence of delamination and there was a fair amount of shoe pad left, the bike stops one hell of a lo better with the new brakes.

 

There have been improvements in brake lining technology over the last 28+ years; I'd recommend new pads as well, even if not worn out.

 

And don't over look your front brake lines. I recently replaced mine as they were far too old. I opted for the stainless. Now the bike stops when it's supposed to.

 

I upgraded my front lines to stainless a couple years back. I think the owners manual calls for replacement of the lines every 3 years (?). Pretty sure they were still original and at that point 27 years old!

 

Lines are 4 years but we won't hold it against you.

 

Front brake rebuild is the next project. I might have glazed the rear pads already. I had then adjusted just shy of rubbing and they definitely overheated on the 15 mile test ride. I backed off a couple turns and am letting it cool now. You'd think with 50+ years of experience I'd stop being such a dumbass, but ..... nooooooo not me.

 

This might be a good place to interject, since a lot of new guys don't know.....that nearly all motorcycle & auto rubber brake lines are actually DUAL WALL lines. Just because the outer wall, which you can see, looks good....there is no telling how rotted the inner wall (which holds the fluid) are. Listen to the guys when they say to replace them....if you doubt their wisdom....think about that TRUCK in front of you next time to hit the brakes.....it will not move when your face hit it, not even an inch!

jeff

 

where do you get the stainless lines i have a 81 xj750 seca has orignal brake lines would like to replace with stainless ones

 

Len@xj4ever (chacal) has them. They fit right up with no issues and only a bit more cost than the rubber lines.

 

Im all for replacing safety required items (I.E. Brake Parts)... Even after replacing I like to "function check" them weekly...

To do this, I use BOTH hands with a small cheater pipe on the brake lever and PULL as HARD as I can on the brakes, like WAY more than you would in any panic/emergency stop situation... If your lines are weak/compromised they will "bubble" or outright burst when subjected to such high system pressures.

I do the same thing on my cars (I have an SCCA SOLO-2/Outlaw Mountain Racing background) by putting BOTH feet on the pedal and pushing as HARD as I possibly can while engine is running and vac/power assist is present... I figure I'd rather they fail in the garage then in "real life"


YMMV, these are just my unique experiences and not a safety reccomendation. Use common sense.

Jay

 

To keep the Rear Brakes working with efficiency, ... you have to keep the Adjustment tight.

Keep the Pedal "Close"
Adjust the Brake Light Switch to Light the Brake light BEFORE the Brakes Shoes make contact with the Drum.

To keep the Rear Brakes Tip-top requires you do some Annual Maintenance.
Clean the Housing.
Get rid of Brake Dust.

De-Glaze the Shoes and Drum.
Sand the Glaze off the Shoes with 320 Grit Sandpaper using a Sanding Block.
WEAR A RESPIRATOR OR A DUST MASK WHEN DEALING WITH BRAKE SHOE DUST.

De-Glaze the Brake Drum.

I used to do it by hand. Sanding off the Glaze with 280 or 320.
Now, I just "Cross-Hatch" the Drum using a Variable-Speed DREMEL Tool and a Medium Sanding Drum.

Keeping the Drum "Moving" on a Medium Speed, ... I make a pass around the Drum with a BIAS Slant Pattern one way ... ///////////////////////.
Then, do i t again the other way, ... \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\.

All you do is Break the Glaze.
The amount of pressure you apply is about the same as you'd use to not sand through a sheet of paper.

 

The thing to remember with the rear drums on these bikes is that the actuator will flip/lock up (I had my rear wheel start to stick and lock up) before you will wear the shoes to what would visually appear to be worn. This is why the guage on the outside of the drum needs to be paid attention to and you need to actually measure the shoes before looking at them and saying they are still good.

Cheers
Dave