New-to-me 1983-34 XJ900RK - Not running

Hi, everyone. I haven't been to these forums in many years, since my old 1982 XJ550 has been garaged since (essentially) before 2013. (Oh, the guilt.) Here's that thread: https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/recommissioning-my-1982-xj550-maxim.43470/#post-386766

Every season (in April) I have had this notion that I'll get it running and enjoy the summer riding it. It hasn't happened. (More guilt.) So this summer I bought a 1981 750 Seca from the original owner that runs extremely well. He has ridden it every year since he bought it, and it's in "close" to mint condition (save a few replacement parts). I love it, and it'll eventually become my wife's, as she wants to get into motorcycling.

A few weeks after I bought the 750, I found a local seller of a 1983-83 XJ900 Seca. I couldn't believe my luck, as these are said to be "unicorns" in N. America. Today I finally made a deal on it, but because the owner couldn't get it running, I got it for $400 less than his asking price of $1100. So... $700 later, and I own an XJ900!

The PO claimed it ran last summer, and that it was winterized (with Seafoam, I believe). He said it didn't have any fuel in it over winter. He put a new tank of gas in it this week, and after charging the new battery, it turns over easily. However, I could only get it to sputter (with and without choke), but it would not start.

From what I could tell, the electrical seems to work - dashboard, high and lowbeams, all four turn signals, brakelights, horn, ignition, ...and clock. I remember seeing a step-by-step troubleshooting list somewhere on this forum, but I thought I would post a new thread to track what I'll be doing on this bike either way.

I'm so excited to have this beautiful 31E. I like the aftermarket paint job it's got, but I may go back to chrome/polished aluminum on some of the blacked-out parts. It has a 4-in-1 aftermarket exhaust, (Yoshimura), and seems to have had stainless brake lines installed at some point - which is great, but I haven't had a chance to look at any other upgrades.

I'd like to see if this VIN has already been added to the "registry". Was that bigfitz's baby? When I went to buy it today, I could not remember where the 17-digit VIN was located - until after I left, and I found this:

http://www.xj4ever.com/catalog/frame-engine-id.pdf

I'll have to check for the full VIN in the next few days. It's still parked at the PO's house. I'll post pics later.

 

Pics...

 

More coming soon...

 

I would replace the fusebox with a blade type one, Chacal should have them, check valve clearances, strip and rebuild the carburettors and make sure the enrichment circuit jets in the float bowls are clear, critical for cold starting. Your new battery is good as you need 10 volts to make the transistors work in the TCI unit. Check spark plug cap resistances and plugs, gaps etc. Make sure you have a good earth to the frame, coil one it is located on the rear of the right coil and the earth from the battery negative to the rear of the engine.

 

Welcome back @alFrumpus
For the 900 registry you need to inform
@hogfiddles and the frame tag should be on the right down tube from steering neck.

 

Frumpus, I'm the one in charge of the 900rk registry...
Dave Fox

 

Sweet deal, I was just out that way, wish I'd seen it first LOL (ok only half kidding).

 

I love the potential of this bike. Thanks for your suggestions, @Franz . I certainly have some troubleshooting to do. I'll probably have to start off with an order from @chacal . I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Woah! I was going to load up the XJ900 on a truck / trailer tomorrow (as it is still at the PO's house), but the PO just sent me this short video:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IniN2wUnbMBuP8bThQC14hb0_wiUGUPj/view?usp=drivesdk

He said it "ran rough" when he took it around the block. Based on the sound, is there anything new (or more specific) that you experts suggest I'll need to do to the engine when I get it home?

 

You need to re upload, video has 'restricted' access?

 

Just got access, but honestly video quality is terrible and far too short to discern anything!!!

Sounds (possibly?)like it isn't running on all 4.....???

 

Thanks for the note. I turned on "link sharing". Try it now.

Of course it's terrible quality. The PO texted to me. I'll try to get a better one tonight.

 

Sorry....sounds like it was shot inside a bean can, with a 1970's VHS...no offense, but the quality is too bad to discern anything....

 

Here. This video is a bit longer & of higher quality.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oYzpRuZqQAybdpUvzM3XICMegYWJMFUw/view?usp=drivesdk



The choke was partially on (the engine doesn't really like to run without the choke), but I couldn't get the RPM's above 3,500 or 4,000. It got "boggy" every time I tried to rev the throttle past that threshold, though I could drive it around the block a few times - keeping it at low RPM's.

Is that running lean? Or rich?

 

Sounds like it's only running on the enricher circuit

 

It's obviously really tempting to just get the bike running and and all that, but it's an old bike. Commit to going through it and making it safe and reliable. Do the brakes and carbs, check a ton of other stuff (like wheel bearings, tires (unless it was ridden recently, it probably needs some), oil leaks, front forks and fork bearings, electrics... I'm leaving some stuff off I'm sure, oh, fuel tank/petcock/lines... anyway, you get the idea. You'll really enjoy riding this, especially once it's been throughly gone through and you can trust what's under you. Looks like you've got a great bike there!

 

Thats much better, sounds like it may be running too rich.....also, 4-1, wonder if it's been jetted?

 

I'll tell ya..... once it's dialed in, the 900rk is scarey FAST. Funny though.... the 700X has even faster time specs

 

I like your bike alFrumpus. Be great when you get it sorted the way you want it.

 

Your making a lot of us jealous ...keep us informed and keep pictures coming.

 

Not me......I already got four or five

 

Well, with the purpose of learning to become my own motorcycle mechanic, I'll list the steps I intend to take to get this XJ900 (31E) back into shape ( largely based off the list I made 5 years ago in the thread for my '82 XJ500 - posted above, and the following pages:

-The Information Overload Hour: https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-information-overload-hour.27544/ ...
-"The List": http://xjbikes.wikidot.com/the-list
-http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike-content.html#11

My to do list...

From what I've learned here, the best approach is to get it running WELL "stock" first. However, I'll leave some previously-installed aftermarket parts alone. For example, it's got a 4-in-1 Yoshimura exhaust that seems to be in great shape, and unless that gives me problems, I'll just deal with the extra tuning (rejetting?) it may require. I plan on buying all the parts I require from @chacal .


CLEANING OFF THE BIKE/ENGINE:

To prepare for the rest of the items, I would like to clean off all the dirt & grime from the bike & engine, but with garden hose pressure only, correct? Any other suggestions?

Or possibly using a soda blaster (or walnut shells)?




CHECK VALVE CLEARANCES:

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/82-xj-650-startng-problem-surpise.46358/

I'll do this BEFORE doing a compression test. That way if any are way too tight, it won't give me false readings on the compression test results (Thanks to @bigfitz52 for that nugget). Valve clearances are to be checked before each riding season, correct?

Check valve clearances as per:
https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bigfitzs-airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics-parts-i-ii.116006/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...tment-part-2-the-tool-vs-ziptie-w-pics.29209/


Once I find out which of my valve shims are out of spec, collaborate with @hogfiddles and either do a valve shim swap (IF he includes Canadians in the pool), or buy new valve shims from @chacal .

Replace the head gasket via:
https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bigfitzs-airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics-parts-i-ii.116006/

Replace the "donuts" via:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/valve-cover-donut-tool-now-with-how-to-pics.40308/
or BigFitz's Valve spec page, or...
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/pressure-washers-donuts.32854/

...and torque those bolts to 7.2 ft-lb.



FUEL SYSTEM:

Install an inline fuel filter, as per:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-a-fuel-filter.6352/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/fuel-filter-causes-no-start-condition-fuel-starvation.9784/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/inline-fuel-filter-longevity-alert.34020/

Checking for any rust in the fuel tank. If there's rust, use vinegar (or some other method) to clean out the rust as per:
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/tank-rust-removal-no-frills-easiest-fastest-cheapest.48196/

Checking that the vacuum petcock works well. If not, rebuild as per this thread:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/rebuilding-the-yamaha-vacuum-fuel-valve-w-pics.25058/



DO A COMPRESSION TEST:

I've been told to do a compression test on a slightly warm engine to see if it's even worth working on.
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/compression-test-xj650.113151/


CARBURATORS:

Remove the carb rack from the bike as per:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/removing-carbs-the-easy-way.87177/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/clean-your-own-carbs-the-whole-9-yards-by-rick-massey.2908/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/carb-removal-made-easy-well-almost.29695/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/made-a-how-to-video.103484/
http://www.xj4ever.com/inside your carbs.pdf

Then the carbs need to be rebuilt from scratch as per:

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/in-the-church-of-clean.14692/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-secret-life-of-carburetors.14751/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/mikuni-carbs-part-1-exploded-view-with-pics.31061/
https://thexscafedotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mikuni_bs-cv_carburetor_rebuild_tutorial.pdf
...including the Enrichment Well:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-clean-the-enrichment-circuit-well.8918/

Then I need to make sure they go "clunk":

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/your-carbs-need-to-go-clunk.1640/

Then bench-syncing:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-bench-synch-your-carbs.6366/

Then "Wet-set" the floats:
http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf

Then address any cracking issues on my Carb Intake Boots using RTV & a rubber innertube:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/carb-boot-repair.42209/#post-372509
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/rubber-intake-boots.114673/#post-573218

Then reinstall the carbs:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/is-there-a-trick-to-getting-the-carbs-back-on-the-bike.29640/

(?? Is this point as good a time as any to change the oil?)
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/first-oil-filter-oil-change.41046/


..And perhaps change to a spin-on filter?
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/spin-on-oil-filter-how-to.23811/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/converting-to-a-spin-on-style-oil-filter.55881/

Then block the YICS port using the YICS tool, as per:
http://home.westman.wave.ca/~jbe/YICS.htm
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/yikes-all-about-the-yics-system.14757/
http://www.xj4ever.com/HCP5460 YICS tool.pdf
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/home-made-yics-tool-diagrams.72713/

Then vacuum-syncing while running, or using a water-manometer:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/dirt-cheap-manometer.98613/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0qf11BOx6o
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/82-xj-650-startng-problem-surpise.46358/page-2#post-414262

Running Sync:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/running-sync-screw-in-or-out-that-is-the-question.75716/

Vacuum-gauge Carb Sync method:
- ?? (Couldn't find my old URL for this.)

Then Colortune to adjust mixture:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/idle-mixture-theory-adjustment-screws-and-bypass-holes.18265/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ_mZJYIq8I&feature=related


ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:

(I haven't searched much for "how-to" threads for most of these issues yet. I'll try to add links later - if possible.)

Thorough electrical wiring / system check:
http://web.archive.org/web/20071214...ies.com/MotorCity/Speedway/7795/xjfaqbig.html
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/electrical-troubleshooting-101-how-to-get-started.32483/

As mentioned previously, all the lights seem to function correctly. However, I'll do the following:

Check battery voltage (including while starter is under load).
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/330

Check gap on spark plugs and install new spark plugs if needed.

Check spark plug cables & replace as needed.

Upgrade the fusebox to an aftermarket "blade" type, as per:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-an-aftermarket-fuse-box.6350/#post-51842
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/photo-of-new-fusebox-install.14200/#post-121673

Replace alternator brushes? (Is there a "need" for this - or how do I test whether mine are sufficient?)


NEWIFYING THE FRONT FORK SEALS:

Though the chrome on the forks feels silky smooth, the front fork seals leak - as evidenced by slight oiliness on the chrome, as well as oil down on the brake (?calipers), circular oil "streaks" on the discs, and very "soft" front brakes (compared to my XJ750R). So I'll have to change my front fork seals, as per:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/doing-the-750-secas-forks-rebuild-now-a-how-to.18730/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/leaky-anti-dive-units.1860/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/anti-dive-fork-explosion.41895/#post-368361

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-change-your-fork-seals.8355/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/fork-seals-85-xj700n-picture-heavy.78389/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/hope-you-enjoy-the-pictures-new-video-added-5-15-2011.29616/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/replacing-fork-seal-issues.42966/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/fork-boots-and-avons-and-real-brakes-oh-my-updated.16019/

TEST / REPLACE REAR SHOCKS:
(...TBA)


BRAKING SYSTEM:

Front & rear discs:
I have those "vented" discs on front and rear (that I heard were well-intended, but prone to warp). How do I check the discs for "excessive wear"? Also, the front brakes didn't "feel" warped (eg. I felt no pulsing as I depressed the front brake lever). However, I could only ride it around the block, and only got up to ~40km/h. So I dunno yet.

Rear brake pedal:
I'll have to adjust the rear brake lever to a lower position; it's FAR too high up & is difficult / uncomfortable right now for me to depress. Even so, it currently has more braking power than the (oily) front discs.

Brake lines:
It seems like I have rubber brakes lines on the rear disc. I'll check to see what is printed on them, but likely I'll have to replace them, as per:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/why-you-need-to-replace-original-brake-lines-w-pics.41400/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/new-member-need-help-with-brakes.78654/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-front-brake-help-moved-from-dyi.111186/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/fork-boots-and-avons-and-real-brakes-oh-my-updated.16019/
http://www.xj4ever.com/ss brake line install.pdf

Rear Wheel:
Q: Are the steps for removing and reinstalling a rear wheel the same for an XJ900 as on most models?
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/removing-rear-wheel.2398/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/help-with-rear-axle-removal.12364/

I had read that stainless steel brake lines only need to be replaced if they fail pressure-testing like the front ones, yes? I plan to thoroughly check over the Front Brake System, and if needs, rebuild it as per:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-front-brake-fyi.110663/

Wheel bearings:
Check both wheel bearings (while the wheels are off the bike).
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-how-to-w-pics.35134/
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj550-seca-front-wheel-bearing-replacement.119533/

Brake pad & caliper rebuild:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/1985-86-xj700-caliper-rebuild.118121/
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?116337-Clutch-Hydraulic-Rebuild-Tutorial
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/1985-86-xj700-caliper-rebuild.118121/page-2

Rebuilding the Master Cylinder:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/why-you-need-to-rebuild-your-caliper-and-m-c-w-pics.41403/
http://www.xj4ever.com/choosing a sight glass.pdf
Rear:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...82-xj1100-maxim-rear-master-cyclinder.106588/


AIR:

Check/replace air filter if needed:
https://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/air_filters_more.html


DRIVE SYSTEM:

Q: With a shaft drive, I have read that just making sure the fluid level stays topped up is really all you need to do. Is this correct?


CONTROLS:

Check / adjust / lubricate control cables.


SECURITY:
The seat lock doesn't function correctly. Though the key "fits", it won't turn the tumblers. So I may have to clean out this lock.


After all that is done ... it'll probably be winter, or next spring already, so I won't be able to see how it drives until then. I "may" attempt some cleaning up / removing of black paint on some of the aluminum areas on the engine and wheels. I would also like to clean up and repaint the rusted areas around the rear shaft drive / axle. Lastly, the handlebar grips don't match. I may get new ones, but it's not pressing.

So...

What am I missing?


I'm still a newb with engines, but this forum has helped educate me FAR more than I ever learned in school or in life about engines. Once more, I'll work on building an order with @chacal (and I might as well get the parts for my other bikes - 1981 XJ750R and the 1982 XJ550 - at the same time to save on multiple shipping charges to Canada). I'll say it again, there is absolutely NO WAY I would have the slightest clue what to do without the people on this forum. Thank you all for your patience and dedication!

One last question: What can I do if my bike(s) have to spend winter in an insulated, but unheated quanset (it's like like a massive shed) over the winter? I have also noticed that this quanset must trap moisture somehow, as vehicles that reside in this quanset over the winter tend to get some rust by spring. Is there any way to deter this?


-Allan in Saskatoon, SK, Canada

P.S. I only can "EDIT" my posts for a short period of time after I post them. Yet it would be nice to be able to edit them indefinitely - to update this "checklist" as I cross stuff off. Is this a possibility somehow?

 

You're correct. You can only edit to make corrections for a short time.

You also can just refer people to the section of the information overload hour rather than copying and pasting line after line and section after section of overload info. It's already in the overload hour for people to go to.

Some people spray the metal down with wd, pb, etc..... I'd recommend doing a pretty heavy wax/polish job

 

I forgot to add that I intend to buy a manual for the XJ900.

Thanks, Dave. Was this suggestion in response to my concerns about storing this bike in a damp-ish quanset over a long Saskatchewan winter? Or was it suggesting how to remove gunk / oil before tinkering? Or something else?

Unless it's frowned upon, or there is a rule against it, I would prefer to post the links / URLs in my thread rather than simply referring people to the Information Overload Hour (I.O.H.). The information overload thread is just SOOOOoooo massive. I pasted in the URLs primarily to condense the I.O.H. into snippets customized for what THIS bike requires - so I wouldn't have to go searching for the links later while I'm working on the bike. I'll be using it like a checklist. A secondary objective was to provide reference for the gurus here - so they know what guides / learning materials I will be using (not so much for other newbs like me), and perhaps steer me clear of unsavory suggestions.

I'll try to condense my specific questions from the mini-I.O.H. I posted above:

1. Valve clearances are to be checked before each riding season, correct?

2. Given the various needs my bike has, at what point in time would it be best to change the oil in this process?

3. Does anyone have a link to the "Vacuum-gauge Carb Sync" method?

4. Is there a "need" to replace alternator brushes? Or how do I test whether mine are sufficient?

5. Can someone give me a link for a how-to check or replace the rear shocks? (I didn't notice this in the I.O.H..)

6. With a shaft drive, I have read that just making sure the fluid level stays topped up is really all you need to do for maintenance, unless something goes wrong. Is this correct?

7. Has anyone successfully used soda-blasting (or some other media) to clean either grime or to "un-paint" their XJ's as in the videos above? Any other suggestions?

Today I used a garden hose to wash both the XJ750RH (I should really start another thread for that one), and the XJ900RK. Neither needed much attention - except for the oil on the forks, calipers, and front discs on the XJ900. However, upon closer inspection, I found several cracks in the plastic tubing that covers the SS brake lines on the front brakes.

8. Should I be concerned at all about these cracks? Also, how would I go about pressure-testing these SS lines to ensure I don't need to attend to them for another 5+ years? To an automotive shop?

Thanks again for the help!

 

If it was my bike I would change the brake lines alFrumpus, I know it is just the plastic that has cracked but the brakes are as you know one of the most important devices on a bike. I changed my pipes because I had the same problem and the cost of the new pipes was well worth it for peace of mind.

 

1. Valve clearance check is at 5,000 mile intervals
2. Change the oil now
3. Get yourself the Morgan Carbtune Pro. I'll talk you through it, but it's simple.......learning curve is about 10 minutes or less
4. They eventually do need to be replaced, but I w0uldn't worry about that at this time
5. Shocks......if they're leaking, replace them. If they aren't, do they feel ok? Or do they feel soft? Turn the dial to increase the pre-load. If they still feel soft when they're dialed all the way up, they may be shot. To replace, it's simply a nut/washer at the top; a nut on the left rear bottom, and a bolt on the right rear bottom. Un-bolt, remove, install replacements.
6. Yup
7. I do it for really nasty looking carbs
8. They are not the original lines. The clear covering is cracked, the steel braiding is not.look for any leaking, or wet spots. I doubt you'll find any. ALL of my bikes are still running their factory lines (yeah, I know.......). The discoloration show appears to be dirt that has gotten in at the cracks, not from fluid leaking 0ut.

 

Had me worried @hogfiddles , I checked the XJ550 manual and it states every 5K miles for valve clearance check... but that means, I'm due, like now. At least I'm not *way* overdue!

 

That's a typo---I'll go back and correct it right now. I should stop trying to type on an iPhone screen......grrrrrr

Fixed--thanks for spotting that