New to XJ!! 84 fj600 top end help!!

I have a 84 FJ600 that the timing chain broke on and need some help setting the cams. I did a valve job and a porting of the intakes with new valve seals-shims-springs-valves ect ect. what i need to know is how to set the cams. I have it set on TDC, where do the marks need to be that are on the cam sprockets. I don't have the manuel and cant see spending 30 bucks for it cause when its done im selling it.

 

I'm not sure if an FJ600 and an XJ650 are the same, but here's what my book says...

12. Cylinder head and Cam shafts

(Skipping ahead few steps. I'm assuming you've already installed the head.)

d. Install the front cam chain guide being certain that it is in its holder down below.

e. Rotate the engine in a counterclockwise direction intil the crankshaft pointer and "T" mark on the timing plate are aligned.

f. With the cylinders No. 1 and 4 at the top dead center, slip the cam chain over the sprocket.

g. Lubricate all cam caps and cam bearings surfaces liberally with oil.

h. Place the cam caps in their proper positions. The caps are identified "I-1" through "I-3" for intake and "E-1" throught "E-3" for exhaust. Install the bolts only finger tight.

[CAUTION: The cam caps must be tightened evenly or damage to the cylinder head, cam caps and cam will result. The spaces between the caps and cylinder head should be equal.]

i. Torque the cam cap bolts in two stages and final torque to the specification.

[Tightening torque: 1.0 m-kg (7.2 ft-lb]

13. Cam chain, cam sprockets and chain tensioner

a. Rotate each cam shaft intil the dot on the cam is aligned with the arrow on the center cap.

[CAUTION: Use extreme caution when rotating the cams. Two possible dangers exist. First, the wrench may contact the head and fracture it. Or second, a valve may become bent if the cam is turned the wrong way.]

b. Carefully lift the cam chain from the exhaust cam sprocket and pull upward to remove any slack in the chain between the crankshaft and the exhaust cam sprocket. With all the slack removed, place the chain back on the cam sprocket.

c. Grip each sprocket simultaneously and place them on the camshaft shoulders while continuing to keep tension on the chain from the crankshaft to the exhaust sprockets.

[CAUTION: Use only the special hardened shouldered bolts to install the cam sprockets to cams. Make sure the rollers of the cam chain are centered on both chain gains.]

d. Rotate the sprockets slightly to align the bolt holes and insert one special bolt in each sprocket.

NOTE: Tighten only finger tight at this time.

e. Install the center chain guide.

f. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise and align the "C" mark on the timing plate with the timing pointer.

g. Compress the cam chain temsioner and lock in the retracted position.

h. Install the chain tensioner to the engine and torque the bolts to the specification.

[Tightening torque: 1.0 m-kg (7.2 ft-lb]

i. Release the tensioner holding bolt, an audible click will be heard when the tensioner is released.

j. Torque the holding bolt and lock nut to the specification.

[Holding bolt torque: 0.6 m-kg (4.3 ft-lb]

[Lock nut torque: 0.9 m-kg (6.5 ft-lb)]

k. Rotate the crankshaft more than one full revolution and align "T" mark on the timing plate with the timing pointer. With the crankshaft at the "T" mark, the dots on the cams should be aligned with the arrows on the center cam caps. If they are not aligned, disassemble the sprockets and chain tensioner and repeat above procedures.

l. Rotate the crankshaft and install the two remaining sholder bolts into the cam sprockets. Torque all four sprocket holding bolts to the specification.

[CAUTION: Be sure to attain the specified torque value to avoid the possibility of these bolts coming loose and causing damage to the engine.]

[Tightening torque: 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)]

m. Adjust all valves as described in the "PERIODIC INSPECTIONS AND ADJUSTMENTS".

n. Install the cylinder head cover with a new gasket.

o. Install the left and right crankcase covers. The left crankcase cover [pick-up coil cover) is required a gasket. (sic)

And that's that. Hope it helps.

 

(a. Rotate each cam shaft intil the dot on the cam is aligned with the arrow on the center cap)
The thing about it there is no dot on the cam shaft only on the sprokets.
I am shure that when it is set at TDC and 1&4 cyclinder at the top that is when it would be firing so the cams lobes would be off the valves.
And when you rotate the engine 1 revalution the exhaust should be open. Am i correct?
From what i have read is that the fj600 was made and then they changed it to a xj600 same motor different model.

http://www.arcomnet.net.au/~millal/XJ600.htm

 

Let me get a picture scanned from the book that should help...

 

Errr... Suggest you DO NOT rotate the camshafts after the Cam bearing caps have been installed The Valves WILL hit pistons... not good
Assemble sprockets and cam shafts Then guesstimate the correct location of the index dot as you start to install the cam add the chain to the Intake Sprocket.. carefully.. Then put on a couple of the cam bearing caps You will see which ones are necessary. Remembering that the Crank Must Not move ..even a tiny bit. Then Do same with Exh Cam/sprocket.. noting that it will be off the index untill you add the chain tensioner. Once done you will find that it's Not on the right spot so you get to do it again

But now you have a better guess as to how many chain teeth you need to shift the sprocket over so that it is exactly right when the cam caps and the tensioner are installed. It can and DOES get to be exactly on the index marks.. do not settle for 'close enough' it ain't necessary.
PITA basically , but with patience, reasonably doable.. without.. causing 'Junk the engine' damage in the process.
G'luck.

 

Got it all together and time dead nuts!! Turned the key on and hit the magic button and she fired and ran till the carb bowls went empty!!
Got it down off the table and went for a test ride and she seems like the carbs got some crud in them some where so im going to take them off tomarrow and clean them again. I got a inline filter that im going to put on also. I need some air pods cause the bike didnt have the air box when i got it. Fork seals and a few little things and she will be road worthy.

 

Excellent news! If you're taking the carbs off and putting a fuel filter on, may I suggest HOW TO: Bench-synch your carbs (may help with your carb issue) and HOW TO: Install a fuel filter?

 

If you put the K&N filter pods on from what I remember, you have to have cyl 2 and 3 filters up and on cyl's 1 and 4 down. That way it's not such a tight squeeze between the filters.

Sean

 

Thanks Gamuru for the info on the top end. I have already bench synched them and I need to synch them on the bike. I have a 4 gauge carb synch tool that I scored at a parts swap meet and it works great. I have been useing it for the last 6 months on customers bikes and have gottin good results.
Dinoracer
I have been drawing up some air cleaners that I can make but for now im going to put pods on it till i can get to makin the air cleaner.
I have been realy busy in the shop working on customers bikes cause theres a rally here in my home town this weekend and they want there bike fixed before then. I finshed the last customers bike last night and starting on mine today, Oil change-new plugs-rear brakes-bath-wax.
Going to get at it!! Later