Northeast Ohio (Cleveland Area) colortune help

Does anyone in/close to my area have a colortune that they would be willing to teach me how to use? I have been having some serious problems dialing in the carbs by plug chops alone.

I could provide a certain beverage of your choice for the time.

 

i looked at your other post and saw something in there that should be checked
any time i pull the carbs off, sync them on the bike this might be the whole problem
i don't think you can do a real good cleaning without taking the mixture screws out
the only real way to check the floats is with gas and a clear tube
that 2 1/2 turns out is going to get you in the ball park IF everything else is right it should be very rideable

 

I've got the floats set at right about 3mm below the lip now (verified on each carb) plus or minus .5 mm or so. My main problem is that it is difficult to start and needs throttle to get it started. After several minutes of shoddy idling, at the 400 - 500 RPM range, it slowly works it's way up to 1000 RPM and stays there.
Hmm.... I still need to replace the fuel rail o-rings, so I'm going to tinker with them some more.

 

your doing to have to sync after breaking the rack apart to change those o-rings
the hard starting and poor idle is probably the "choke"circuit in the float bowl
thats the hole in the float bowl that the brass tube fits into it takes a very thin wire to get at, theres a how-to in the faq section

 

I used a wire guage drill bit. (cant remember the size though)

Did it by hand

 

My enrichment circuit is well and clean, the first time I took the carbs apart I cleaned it out so that it shoots carb cleaner out of it (just like in the FAQ).

The problem of low RPM's at idle goes away after the bike is warm. I have tried adjust the idle adjustment screw and I can get the bike to start right up and idle at 1000 rpm, however, once it begins warming up the idle RPMs climb and tend to stabilize somewhere around the 1700 RPM range.

Any ideas?

 

set the idle after it's fully warmed up to 1k then when cold use the choke to start it and keep it running till it warms up
you should need to use the choke to keep a cold motor running for the first minute or so then if you back the choke all the way off it may idle but way slow, the cold engine is wanting a richer mix
sync'ing the carbs is going to change the idle too

 

The problem that I have with that is as soon as the choke is opened up, even a little bit, the motor starts to bog down even more and at times will die. This leads me to think that it's running too rich, excess gas extinguishing the spark. No?

I have the carbs off, I'm going to take everything apart, clean them again, replace the throttle shaft seals, replace the fuel rail o-rings and synch them together. In the mean time, anything else I should look for? I have the mixture screws set almost right, just a little lean.(judging by plug color)

 

make sure when you put them back on, the forks that lift the enrichment plungers have some clearance before they start lifting
have a look at the little o-rings under the mixture screws

 

I took a good look at everything inside, all was clean and shiny. Still passed the clunk test, too.

After having replaced the throttle shaft seals and the fuel rail o-rings, she started running a bunch better. Now when I throw the choke on, it does what it's supposed to!

Thanks for all of the help and advice Polock.