Nuetral switch/electrical issue

Hey guys. I got an 81 xj650rj.
Recently installed a digital gauge, but that's not the issue. Problem is the nuetral switch. The factory harness has two wires from the harness to the nuettal indicator lamp, light blue/ light brown. Oil light indicator also, red and white/ black red (this one off the diode). The gauge only has one input for these indicators. No big deal, wont plug them in the gauge.

The issue is, now I cant get the nuetral switch to activate with the shifter, so the bike thinks it's always in gear. If I give 12v to light blue I can activate it and bypass it, so the switch itself is ok, but the bike thinks it's always in nuetral, and I like the safety feature, and optimally would like the indicator on the gauge. Clutch switch and foot stand switch operate normally. Starting/safety circuit operates normally except nuetral.

I'm at a loss. I either dont use it and always clutch it, or I bypass it and lose the safety feature.

 

The only wire to the neutral switch is Sky Blue.
The switch grounds to the engine case when in neutral.

Your install is the issue. You have something wired incorrectly.

Post the wiring diagram for your gauge cluster if possible.

 

On the xj side------function-------------gauge
Yellow----------high beam----------blue
Black/red----oil indicator lamp----???
Red/white---oil indicator lamp----???
Light brown--nuetral indicator---???
Light blue-----nuetral indicator----???
Black ------------ground--------------green
Brown----------left signal-----------orange
Green-----------right signal---------light blue

That's from the main harness that connected to the indicator light panel. 8 wires factory side but gauge only has 6 (that I need). Currently the 4 (2 for nuetral, 2 for oil) are disconnected, not sure what to do with them.
Gauges constant 12v (for memory) and 12v 'on' are spliced into the ignition.
Also I bypassed the headlight relay to test polarity (headlight is led), so the headlight functions properly as well. Signals, headlight and brake light all function properly. And indicate correctly on gauge.

 

Neutral indicator is Sky-Blue. There is only the one wire for that.

 

Off the front

Ok. So that then should go into the gauge. So then I'm left with what sounds like a faulty switch? It should complete the circuit in nuetral, giving sky blue 12v, correct? I get nothing, in any gear.

So that leaves me with a light brown from the oem harness side that splices into the front brake lever switch wire before the pigtail (I'm not sure if this is oem, previous owner fiddled a little). As well as a black red/ red white wire from the oil indicator bulb.

I did see if I plug the red white wire into the gauge, when the kill switch is 'off' it does display the proper indicator.
None of this makes much sense as everythibg else functions properly.

 

We really need a diagram of the gauge you are using either through posting it directly or a link to what you purchased

 

In case you don't have one...wiring diagram for xj650rj attached.

 

the feed for your neutral light ,will be supplied by the new gauge, so you dont need the light brown wire , just hook the sky blue wire from the neutral switch up to the gauge, wichever wire it says for the neutral.
what gauge did you buy for this?
stu

 

Omg thank you!

Rooster, Currently at work but will post a pic of the supplied diagram when I get home later.

Stu, gauge pic attached. 'Samdo 7 color speedometer'.

 

Actually found it online. This is what was supplied.

 

very good , the resolution on my laptop is not great ,i can just about make out the wording.
so the neutral connection on the new gauge is Green/Red wire, so the light blue neutral switch wire needs connecting to that.
looks to me that its the left hand side ,9 pin plug, bottom l.h. connection
stu

 

not exactly, the sky blue wire does'nt get 12v , it grounds out the earth for the light, you wont get 12v on that wire, if you are using a multimeter , put one test lead on the sky blue wire , with it disconnected from the harness, and the other test probe onto a good earth, select "ohms" on multimeter (lowest scale) and you should get a circuit as you shift into neutral and open circuit when in gear
stu

 

Ok, cool that makes more sense, when I replied to that I thought about it and said wait I think I'm wrong lol

Awesome I'll do a test tonight after work. I did run theough the xj guide 'how to diagnose your starting circuit' and I get to where you check continuity on the switch and that's where I got stopped. According to the guide i need a new switch and/or repair wiring but the only two wires I modified were the light brown and light blue from the headlight bucket lol

I'll post my resistance results later!

 

One thing to consider is that the switch can get gummed up with sludge. It might not be faulty. A dose of Seafoam in the oil usually solves that problem.

 

I did pick up some seafoam cause I did read that they will get sticky. A new switch on the way, was cheap so figured why not.

So when I ground out the nuetral wire, it's all good. I can hear the relay click and it's good to go. But when I insert the wire to the gauge, I get nothin. I think the gauge is lookin for a positive signal, not a ground signal. The light brown it was connected to originally was from the front brake lever switch, so that wire is hot. Thinking when it's in nuetral and grounds, that light brown wire would complete the circuit for the original indicator lamp.

But new gauge doesnt have 2 wire insert. So switch is good, everything is good, did the starter circuit test, everything checks out. Not sure how to get around this. I really would rather not just bypass it

 

Because the switch is a royal PITA to change with the engine in the frame.
You'll have to drop the exhaust, and make (or buy) a modified socket so it can clear the frame during removal.

The gauge uses LED bulbs. Flip the wires to the socket around (if possible), or the bulb in the socket (again, if possible), and the light should work.

 

well not according to the diagram for the gauge you posted, the neutral light grounds through the green / red wire, it says so on the diagram,
what happens if you ground the green /red wire at the gauge, with battery and ignition wires hooked up
that brown / white wire would have been the FEED to the original bulb , then it would ground through the sky blue wire through the switch

 

Good call. I forgot to look back at the diagram before replying.

 

Oh I meant in original writing, the light brown and light blue connected to the same indicator bulb.

When I take the red/green from the gauge and ground it, gauge displays nuetral. So, yeah I'm correct with my wires and pins, I just dont understand why it's not registering, I mustve done something else wrong or I'm missing something or the switch itself has a bad connection.

I guess some what Fortunately shes in about 300 pieces lol and my exhaust is still off so I can try wiggling and cleaning the switch and terminal for the wire tomorrow but yeah, I have no idea anymore. Almost to the point of screw it, bypass the switch and call it a day. Everything else works.

 

And seriously thank all you guys so much for dealing with my stupidity lol wiring and electricity and that jazz is definitely not my forte, so all this help is vastly and immensely appreciated!

 

right good then , if the neutral indicator works when grounded at the gauge , then just get a short length of wire and follow the circuit of the sky blue wire through the harness, grounding the wire at each connector, till you get to the switch, if the light works then proceed along the wire till you find the break , if the light works when you ground the wire at the switch connector , then the fault must be with the switch
stu

 

Ok so physically find out if the wire itself is bad or switch, makes sense. Got it, gonna try that out after work! I guess the good news is I need to flush my oil anyway of this seam foam, so worse case, my new switch will be here today so I can run my own wire if I absolutely have to.

I csnt thank you guys enough for your time and patience! Will report back later

 

Alright in case anyone is reading along, or cares lol it turns out it's the switch. Continuity check from the wire in the headlight bucket, to the switch lead does not give a complete circuit, whether in nuetral or not. I do have a replacement switch, but I'll try running some seafoam in the crank and see if its maybe just gummed up or something