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Oil filter check valve frozen - HELP!

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by MBFTY, Aug 19, 2014.

  1. MBFTY

    MBFTY Member

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    Overtorqued and stripped seems to be the theme on my SECA. It seemed great, because it came with records for every time the PO had taken it in to the dealer when it got a fart hung crossways.

    Yea. Stripped #1 plug hole. Rounded drain plug. Stripped rear brake stay bolt... now, the oil filter check valve wont come out. It was partially rounded to begin with, and now its REALLY rounded. So I ordered a NOS check valve off of eBay, and decided to go at it with a full spread. Let me explain what I have already done, and we can go from there.

    Soaked overnight multiple times with Kroil while waiting for the new checkvalve.

    Hammered a slightly smaller 6pt socket over it and tried. Just rounds more.

    Went at it with a my Matco bolt extractor kit, no dice. Nada.

    Squeezed a pair of good vice-grips onto it with the force of a thousand suns. Nothing. Wont budge. Just rounds more.

    Warmed it with a torch (not too hot. Rubber inside there) and went at it again with the vice grips. Nope.

    Im at the point where It looks like I might have to bring it into the shop and shatter the housing off of the engine with an air hammer. I seriously dont want to do this.

    Where do I go from here?
     
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Cut the hex end off with a grinder. The housing will now slide off, and you will have the entire length of the check valve to grab ahold of for removal.
     
  3. MBFTY

    MBFTY Member

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    The flat part of the end of the valve sits below the cooling fins on the housing. I had considered that, but its going to be hard to cut without cutting into the housing.
     
  4. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You can find a new/used filter housing on eBay for close to nothing. They're the same through the whole XJ line; so if you damage yours replacement isn't difficult.
     
  5. MBFTY

    MBFTY Member

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    Took about 45 minutes with a cutting wheel but I finally managed to grind it down so the (now trashed) housing would slide off. As I suspected, the filter element had begun to fall apart so Im glad I got it out of there.

    On a side note, do not buy the 120v 3in cutting tool from Harbor Freight. It will constantly overheat and shut off, and doesnt get up to the advertised 22,000rpm. Not even close.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The only thing I buy from Harbor Freight is blasting media (soda or sand) while my kid always goes for whatever freebie that gets him, only to have it fail in short order.

    Jump on eBay and score thee a new housing.

    There is supposed to be a thin steel washer between the spring and the filter; these are often long lost and while not totally necessary, a good idea nonetheless. "You know who" has them.

    Tip, if you haven't picked up on it yet: FRAM CH6003 filters come with both o-rings, as do the NAPA/WIX cross-references. I've been using the NAPA PS4934 (made in Poland ?!?) because my NAPA store is only 2 small-town blocks away and they cost a whopping $6.

    For future reference, the torque spec on the filter bolt is only 11 ft/lb.
     
  7. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    HF has a very liberal returns policy, due in part to the relatively high failure rate of some of their tools. If you ask nice you shold be able to get a cupon that you can use on buying non-electical things from them.
     
  8. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    chacal the parts man sells a real nice spin-on filter adaptor for these bikes.
    just spin the old filter off and spin a new one on
     
  9. MBFTY

    MBFTY Member

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    Harbor Freight is hit or miss. I am an auto technician and I have a TON of their tools. Some of them I have been using daily for quite a long time. Their small air tools, if they dont break the first time you use them, will last forever.

    They also sell this thing. This is the great equalizer for all rounded, rusted, crossthreaded, and jammed fasteners on the planet. If you can get it in there, and get a bite on it, it WILL come loose. I've used it to break alignment collars free on Ford E-vans that havent been touched since the Reagan administration.
     
  10. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Not quite......the 550 maxim housing is much heavier, and the fins are a different shape. I don't know if the 550 seca housing is the same as the 550 maxim--haven't looked, it's too late to go out to compare at this time of night.

    The 650, 700,750, and 900 are all the same, though......

    Now, maybe the 550 one will still interchange if the mating surfaces are still the same though

    dave f
     
  11. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You are correct sir-- sort of.

    A quick romp through the fiche reveals the 550s, both Seca and Maxim, having a "4G0" part number and the rest of them being a good ol' 4H7.

    Both flavors 550 should be the same; all the shafties are alike.

    But I'm betting they're reasonably interchangeable since they all use the same filter and o-rings.
     
  12. MBFTY

    MBFTY Member

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    Picked up a replacement the buyer says is from an 81 750 SECA. Certainly looks correct. Gave $25 for it. The next cheapest was like $7, but looked buggered up.
     
  13. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    But the 550 has a much bigger set of fins on them, and a different shape to them.... Much heavier---
     

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